How awesome is a pot controlled VFD!!!

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Feb 16, 2010
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I've had a grinder for a while, and I love it compared to what I used before. It's an EERF with a 1.5HP baldor and FM-50 VFD running off 110V. However, I couldn't get the pot to change the speed. It takes forever pushing the button and holding it down to change the speed. Apparently, according to the machinist who made my ring for me, you have to change F11 to "1" in the menu to activate it. Yeah, rewiring, new pots, scratching my brain with dull KSOs, all to no avail and it was a simple menu setting.

This is the button sequence to change it from default
menu > up (11x) > enter > up > ent

So, for anyone who can't get their pot to work, check the manual. You have to program the VFD to use the pot instead of the keypad. I know I was talking to someone on here recently who had this issue, but I can't remember whom it was.

fm50.jpg
 
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Not familiar with that vfd... Could you post pics? How much do these run? Thanks for the tips!
 
Where did you get the pot control? It doesn't come with the vfd does it?

The pot specs for VFDs are usually pretty flexible. The exact resistance value doesn't normally matter very much because it works as a Voltage Divider, not a resistor per se: The ends of the pot are connected to positive and negative so there's a Voltage gradient along the pot and the wiper picks up the Voltage according to how far along the pot it is.

I usually look for pots in the 5K-10K Ohm range. You want them to be progressive and reasonably easy to turn without being loose, which means you need quality. Good pots tend not to be cheap new. They need to be Linear taper. Pots come in Linear or Logarithmic taper. Logarithmic taper pots are used a lot in Audio applications and are definitely not what you want.

The best ones for VFD control are designed for panel-mounting on industrial control panels and have screw terminals on the back . This makes them very quick and easy to change: important if you are trying to get an industrial production line back into operation (saving a few minutes of downtime on a production line making a thousand bucks an hour is well worth the extra thirty bucks or so for an industrial pot). The prices are not really justified for our applications though. I use them when I can get them free off scrap machinery. They are usually single-turn.

Otherwise, I tend to use 10-turn pots with either 6mm or 1/4" shafts from Bourns or Vishay/Spectrol, bought from ebay, particularly when putting together VFDs for other people. I use 10-turn knobs with counters and a lock, which makes it easy to set the speed at a known value. They are a minor pain to fit because the mounting is a bit more fiddly than the industrial ones, and the connections are for solder.

When putting together VFDs for my own use, I've been spoilt by the industrial single-turn ones and really find the 10-turn ones too slow now. I use my stash of single-turn industrials. If you have not used the single-turn already (and done so enough to expect that all VFDs will be single-turn), I'd strongly recommend going 10-turn. I've not found a non-industrial single-turn that feels anything like as progressive and rugged.

I generally pay around 3-5 GBP (about 5-8 bucks) for the 10-turn Bourns/Vishay/Spectrol with knobs on ebay, but tend to buy them when I see them, rather than when I need them in a hurry. I'd expect to pay rather more if fast was important.

The majority of the Industrial ones I've had have been AutomationDirect ECX2300 units. They match 22mm Telemecanique pushbuttons. List price in the US for these is around $36, but I have no idea how this relates to the price delivered.
 
Potentiometer I think is what it stands for... The only reason I can see to go with the Teco FM-50 vfd is price... Its a good bit cheaper than the kbac however, I love the KB I've got - it's super simple and has a break and fwd/stop/rev switch in it.
 
Yeah, a pot is a rotary dial or "potentiometer" as Josh said. The Teco VFDs are so much cheaper and I bought two for the price of the KBAC I was looking at when I bought them. I need to install the breaking resistor still, but it can handle it.

Now I need to get my second grinder built. Since I no longer have a welder at work, I can put a 220v grinder in.
 
My VFD has a built in pot, and thus it's quite handy to change the speed, but i can't wait to install a foot switch.
It doesn't necessary be a pedal pot, even just a foot start/stop switch would be a great improvement for the final touches on the blades!!
 
For a foot-pedal speed control, it might be worth taking a look at the cheap Chinese TIG welder foot pedals.

I'm pretty sure there's a microswitch for the shielding gas feed that would work for a run signal and a pot for the welding current that would work for the speed control, all assembled into a foot pedal unit that would take quite a lot of time and/or money to duplicate yourself.
 
For those not familiar with VDFs and such, most all have three terminals for a "remote speed control potentiometer" ( speed pot). This will allow the VFD to be placed in a dust free place and a potentiometer placed on or near the grinder to control the speed. A second switch...especially a foot switch....., is wired to the "Remote On/Off" contacts. This allows you to start and stop the grinder with a tap of the toe. These improvements cost only a few bucks, often less than $20, and make the grinder much more user friendly.
 
For those not familiar with VDFs and such, most all have three terminals for a "remote speed control potentiometer" ( speed pot). This will allow the VFD to be placed in a dust free place and a potentiometer placed on or near the grinder to control the speed. A second switch...especially a foot switch....., is wired to the "Remote On/Off" contacts. This allows you to start and stop the grinder with a tap of the toe. These improvements cost only a few bucks, often less than $20, and make the grinder much more user friendly.

That's sounds sweet!! I hadn't heard about those type of improvement before!!

Thanks for this topic!
 
I know my vfd has the outlets, i'd better fight inertia and search for the specifics...then i could go to the electronic store and get the correct jitzmo :)
 
On my $100 non-sealed VFD the whole keypad and pot can be remotely mounted. I had plans to do it just haven't got around to ordering a cable for it. Once I get a motor for my mill I will start using the remote mounting option as this VFD will be powering my mill, belt, and disc grinder.
6711B2E9-1847-46B0-9D80-874409D67D00.png_zpsy0osdagj.jpeg
 
On my $100 non-sealed VFD the whole keypad and pot can be remotely mounted. I had plans to do it just haven't got around to ordering a cable for it. Once I get a motor for my mill I will start using the remote mounting option as this VFD will be powering my mill, belt, and disc grinder.
6711B2E9-1847-46B0-9D80-874409D67D00.png_zpsy0osdagj.jpeg

Hold up, so can you wire this one VFD up to work w/ multiple motors off of an internal setting on the vfd itself? Great price on that btw... love automation direct
 
I have it setup with 220 30amp plugs, I unplug one and plug in the other that way I have no chance to turn two on at the same time
 
No, most VFDs can be wired for an external pot. I think my manual said it could be 50 meters away. I'll settle for 24" so I can put the VFD under the work bench and have just the pot near the grinder.
 
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