How can I get a hot butt?

Varga Knives

Varga Knives

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Aug 12, 2006
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I am looking to heat up the butt of a knife so that I can hammer it flat and I was looking to see the best way to go about it. I read my way out of the MAPP/Oxy route and I doubt a regular torch would get it hot enough. Don't know much about welding but is this something a Mig could do? BTW- the steel is 3/16th 1084. Any suggestions?

Thanks.
 
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Not exactly sure what you are trying to do, but, if you have access, an Oxy-Acetylene rig will heat it up as hot as you want. Next best is probably MAPP gas. A hand-held propane won't quite do it.

A MIG-Rig is fine for welding, but, if I read your post correctly, you are wanting to heat up the rear portion (handle area) so you can change the shape of the metal.

Robert
 
That's exactly what I want to do. Just soften up the butt enough and hammer it flat to spread it out for more surface area.

Thanks!
 
May I assume this is an already heat-treated blade? If so, Oxy-Acetylene or MAPP will do the trick. You may want to consider a "Heat-Sink" in order to keep the heat from traveling too far towards your blade. You sure don't want to introduce excess heat to the cutting edge.

Several ways to do this..... One is to wrap the blade (cutting) section with wet towels. Another is to purchase commercial product in order to protect the cutting area of the knife. Check with your local welding supply stores.

Robert
 
Lemme make sure I have my facts straight first; this is for the knife you are making for the marine, correct? 3/16" thickness?

If I got that right, are you sure you need more then 3/16" for the butt? I have a knife made from 3/16" thick sitting next to me and it seems more then thick enough for smashing and hammering. If you look at other hard use fixed blades eg. the Becker BK-9, that's 3/16" stock but the smasher seems to be plenty strong.

If it were me, I wouldn't worry about forging it out thicker, instead, leave it how it is then after HT make sure you temper back the butt. It's not something that you want brittle.

Just my thoughts
Cheers
 
You can solder, braze, or weld a flat pommel on. If you fit it like a guard (make shoulders on the tang) I think it would be plenty strong for hammering with, even just soldered on, and would be easier to fit and clean up than forging a pommel in. You could put pins in it for extra strength if you go the solder/braze route.
 
Pics of the knife might help in determining exactly what you are doing! Mapp gas may get it hot enough but somewhat doubt it. Oxy/acetylene is probably your best bet. Like Robert said use dripping wet towels as a heat sink. The reason I said dripping wet is as you are heating the butt of the knife the heat wants to transfer and will quickly dry a rag that is not wet enough and before you know it the heat has transferred too where you don't want it!
 
Robert, it is pre HT. I think acetylene Would be the way to go.

Matt, that is the one and I'm sure you're right in that it's not needed. I'll probably hold off on doing it on this one but I maybe the next. I finished up his knife this afternoon (except for the finish sanding).

I like all the ideas. Thanks guys.
 
MAPP in a hand held torch will get hot enough, but you need the right torch. A simple plumbers torch head will not work, one of the swirl-flame torches should work. I HT small stick tang fixed blades in open air (no forge) often times with just this set up. For larger stuff I use a two brick forge. I work only in 1080/1084 just so I can get a reasonable HT with my set up. Torch design plays a big part in getting the amount of BTU's out of the fuel type, but only to a certain limit.


-Xander
 
If this is going to be used as a striking surface, the 3/16 should be fine as is. Theres no advantage to a larger surface area. The smaller the cross section the more damage, using the same force. As in a skull crusher.
If its going to be used as a hammer, get a hammer. :)

Fred
 
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