How can I make the bevels even on my knife?

Ares1307

Ares1307

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Jun 14, 2012
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I have two knives that came from the factory with two different bevels, on one side the edge looks normal but on the other side the edge is very thin in a section near the tip. They are both recurve knives but the problem is not inside the recurve, its near the tip.. which is the straightest part of the edge. How can I fix this so the angles are the same on both sides and so the edge looks identical on each side? Im assuming Ill have to reprofile the thin side, which is not a problem, but when I widen the edge and start grinding off some of the coating will it chip away or come off nicely? One knife is satin so Im no so worried about that one, the other is bead blasted though... will that coating come off during reprofiling without any problems? Any and All advice is welcome and much appreciated.
 
I've reprofiled my coated blades on the Edge pro (water stones) without a problem (Benchmade, Microtech and ESEE). No cracking or anything else that I've noticed. Bead blasted blades are just like satin blades, just a different finish.
 
The asymmetry of the edge bevels near the tip can usually be evened up somewhat. Oftentimes, an asymmetrical primary grind of the whole blade itself will leave the steel thicker on one side of the centerline or the other, which might make it difficult or impossible to make each side exactly the same (same edge angle, and same bevel width). The grind asymmetry happens a LOT on all but the most meticulously-crafted blades, so this is a very common issue.

Focus primarily on centering the edge and making the angle the same, measured from centerline to each side (equal halves of the inclusive angle, in other words), and don't worry too much if the resulting bevel widths are a little mis-matched (measured width of bevels from the edge to the shoulder, on each side). For a given edge angle, the bevel width will be wider on the 'thicker' side of the blade, and narrower on the 'thinner' side. That's basically just a cosmetic issue, though. So long as the edge is centered (under the centerline of the blade's spine), and the measured angle to each side is the same, that'll have the greatest impact on cutting ease.
 
I always reprofile my knives regardless of factory condition.
I much prefer the profile I use and also prefer to sharpen it to my standards of sharp and polish.
I can also take care of things like perhaps an uneven bevel, etc.
It is not a big deal to me.
 
Exactly what David says :thumbsup:

I have some knives that when being evened out (freehand, so as even as my technique allows) they will have wider bevel on one side compared to the other side.

By rebevelling, we'll find out which factory has better (more symmetrical) primary grind. I found among my EDC's Enlan & Sanrenmu ok, Navy is worse.
 
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Thank you guys. Your insight and knowledge continues to impress me. I have never tried to reprofile any of my knives because Im new to sharpening, and the only sharpener I have at the moment is a Spyderco Sharpmaker + Ultra Fine Rods... But I have a Lansky Diamond system that should arrive this week and once I receive that I will reprofile my knives. I understand that getting them exact is near impossible, but I would like to get them closer than they are. Thanks again for all of your advice. And thank you David for putting it in terms I can understand.

ARES
 
Let's see if I can revive this thread. It's only been...
I have a Victorinox fillet knife, thin and flexible blade, that was given to me that I tried to reprofile with a Lansky. I would work 1/2 of it, reposition the camp further up the blade and do it again. I got a little aggressive and ended up with uneven bevels. I like what is said in this thread but don't know quite how to apply it.

Above David said "So long as the edge is centered (under the centerline of the blade's spine), and the measured angle to each side is the same, that'll have the greatest impact on cutting ease."

How can I check this on such a thin blade with a thin bevel/edge? Any help is much appreciated!
George
 
Since it’s fillet knife, and knowing how close Victorinox tolerance in grinding is, it’s pretty safe to say that if one side is wider (assuming both same angle-are the clamp same position lengthwise and depth of jaw on both sides?), it’s edge is now slightly off center.

If you’re happy with the sharpness and not a sushi chef, just use it and the next sharpening should start at the narrower bevel side and only deburr on the other side. Over time, it’s going to be back at center.

Or, if you’re OCD like me, just rework the narrower side until it’s same width, but that’s removing steel that actually shorten the lifetime of the blade.
 
JorgeSparrow said:
Let's see if I can revive this thread. It's only been...
I have a Victorinox fillet knife, thin and flexible blade, that was given to me that I tried to reprofile with a Lansky. I would work 1/2 of it, reposition the camp further up the blade and do it again. I got a little aggressive and ended up with uneven bevels. I like what is said in this thread but don't know quite how to apply it.

Above David said "So long as the edge is centered (under the centerline of the blade's spine), and the measured angle to each side is the same, that'll have the greatest impact on cutting ease."

How can I check this on such a thin blade with a thin bevel/edge? Any help is much appreciated!
George
Click to expand...

Don't worry too much about that. I spoke in ideal terms, in suggesting the angle should be 'the same' on each side. More realistically, I'd add the qualifier 'within reason' to that suggestion. In other words, if you're using your Lansky at the same marked angle setting on each side, that'll be close enough. No need to measure it. All you're really needing is a full apex, to make it as sharp as possible. The cosmetic or symmetry issues may never be perfect with many knives. Make it cut well first, and then the cosmetics won't matter as much.

Regarding sharpening flexible blades on guided, clamped systems like the Lansky, I always used to notice issues with asymmetry as well, when using my Lansky & Gatco sharpeners. Thin & flexible blades, like fillet knives, will flex & move under pressure from the hone with such setups; especially as you work closer to the tip of the blade, which is much thinner and bends away from the hone much more readily. As the blade flexes away from pressure applied, the effective sharpening angle will vary with that movement. So it's very, very difficult to keep each side looking exactly like the other. Again, don't worry too much about that, but just make sure you fully apex the edge. The thin blade and a crisp apex will do everything you need.
 
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I use a guided system (Edge Pro). Most factory knives will come to you asymmetrical. At least in my experience. To the point where it is a pleasant surprise for me to have them match.

Early on, I thought they HAD to be the same size on each side and quite honestly, ruined some pretty decent knives by removing a ton of metal with a coarse diamond stone trying to get them to match.

I saw a comment above that said you can get them to match *somewhat* and that’s generally what I try to do. I’ll grind for a very short period of time trying to make it happen, but with a coarse diamond stone, after a couple of passes you should be able to figure out if it’s going to.

I find a happy medium for the edge angles. If it came from the factory at 20 and 18, I’ll set the bevels at 19 DPS. It’s my understanding that after a few sharpenings, they’ll eventually even out.
 
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