How Do I Fix This Scratch I Got Right After My Last Coat of Tru Oil

D

dzlvs8

Joined
Jun 13, 2013
Messages
948
So, I juuust finished putting on my last coat of tru oil on the first knife that I made where I had no mistakes or accidents that I had to correct (seriously, I was really pumped about it too!).....and then out of no where my !$^%& cat fell out of the sky, put a huge gash in the top of my head and scraped the handle of my knife! Needless to say, I flipped the $*!#@ out.

So now that this has been freshly tru oiled, what do I have to do to fix this scratch? Can I fill the scratch with super glue and sand it down or do I have to try sanding it out while not messing up the contours of the knife. Also, more importantly, how long do I have to wait before fixing it, since all seven coats of the true oil where applied in the last 24 hours?

Here is the scratch. It's pretty deep. I was surprised.
13570355383_55dcc0625c_b.jpg



The cat was perched on this narrow lamp as usual while watching me work on my knife while laying down and enjoying the heat from the light. The last thing I saw was the $@^*# rolling over on its freakin back on the light or something, then... claws all over the place.
The a$$hole and the lamp it fell from. It new it did something wrong. So I took a pic to shame it.
13570356823_c058808b25_b.jpg
 
Hate to say it, but its not going to look right without sanding it out. You could do the superglue fix, but you will always be able to tell the scratch was there. It won't hide it... Just will make everything even.
 
Sanding it out is best. Also I hate cats more than anything, but that is a cool looking cat at least.
 
So how long should I wait to sand it? Do I have to wait a month for it to fully dry? I think this might be a dumb question, but I really don't want to wait that long if there's a chance that I don't have to.
 
I don't have a definite answer because I haven't done it, but I would just hit it with some paper right away if I were in that position(and I'm sure I will be someday). The tru oil may make the paper gum up and clog quickly, but I don't see it ruining the handles to try it out.
 
Yeah, the only other time I sanded tru oil, it gummed up. It also discolored the wood. I'm not going to risk sanding for at least a month unless I hear from someone else that it would be ok.
 
Did a little Google fu and looks like after many coats, people in the luthier trade and even some knife makers have posted about wet sanding at a high grit on the finishing coats. May take some elbow grease but that scratch doesn't look too deep. If you wet sand with the tru oil and wipe it down with an acetone dampened rag, any discoloration from sanding grit should be easily managed.

Google "sanding tru oil" and take a look at the first few results. May work for what you need

Here's an old thread from those search results that has some info that may help:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/888309-Tru-Oil-Instructions-Printed-on-Label
 
Likely not an accident considering the species. Fix it right as said above. Or it will bug you - forever.

No need to wait. Put a half cup of odorless mineral spirits in a small bowl for lube and start with fresh sharp 800 or 600 grit SiC paper on a hard flat backer and go to town. Get it over with and start again - with the cat in another room.

You will be forced into further refining your handle geometry and surface finish. It can be a real pleasure starting over again from a good base...as long as no deadlines are looming.
 
Andy Lewis said:
It can be a real pleasure starting over again from a good base...as long as no deadlines are looming.
Click to expand...
You are insane. I never want to start over!

Thanks for the tips. I may get the guts to fix it at some point. But I have a few other knives in process that I need to tend to. I will wait to see how bad the scratch bugs me. It's pretty deep and I really dont want to have to recontour the handles.
Also, I gummed up and discolored my last knife while tru oiling and acetone did NOTHING to take out the discoloration. I tried for a very long time. I eventually just had to sand it all out. I don't want to have to do that again.

Regarding your comments about the @^&$#, you obviously know Bengals. The knife was the least of the damage caused this week.
 
...So it's been 30 minutes since I posted last that I would wait it out and see if the scratch would bother me over time. Well, the scratch definitely bothered me. I already have it sanded down and another coat of tru oil has been applied. It didn't actually take much to sand it out. No reprofiling was necessary and the tru oil did not gum up or discolor the scale!
 
That is a beautiful cat. Anyone who hates cats for being cats surely doesn't understand the species. Cats are curious, playful and mischievous with a healthy dose of attitude. It is annoying at times but part of their charm. The knife will be ok. You can sand it out but you might want to try Arrow Wood Finish. Here is what the product review or description on one website says:

Arrow Wood Finish : This is a favorite, Oil finishes are great.....if you have lots of time an patience. ARROW solves that. It takes 90% less work per coat, and 90% less coats to complete the job (compared to any other oil finish). This product can repair any existing finish without stripping (even epoxies and urethanes)....it can restore the appropriate look to any existing finish (from absolutely dull to extremely shiny - or any where in between). But its true glory is in starting from raw (or stained) wood.

ARROW will seal the wood making it very weather resistant, while staying flexible which prevents chipping, cracking and "white line" scratches! i.e. : A live (green) Elm was cut down and 2" thick slices cut from it. Each slice was sanded to about 80 grit. Each slice (the same day the tree was cut) was sealed with different sealers - including man various types - according to their directions. One was sealed with ARROW. Of those 20 slices only one lasted longer than 24 hours! They all cracked and fell apart except for the ARROW finished one! That one has lasted over 15 years so far!

ARROW fills the wood with a natural filler which will not leave white freckles or dull checkering tools. It is about 10 times as effective as the separately sold fillers. (that's one less expense....and job!) In our demonstrations we cut a scar in a gun stock that will take about 20 minutes of sanding and three days of finishing to repair...and complete the total repair in under 60 seconds. (Quickie Summary: Wipe the finish on, wet sand it in with wet-or-dry paper matched to the roughness of the scratch, buff dry to the touch by hand or cloth. Maximum time to rub dry....5 minutes.

ARROW creates the finish YOU want. You control the gloss by the coarseness of the paper you rub it in with. Adjust by adding coats and changing the paper. For instance, using 320 or 400 grit paper gives a matte (non-reflective) finish 500, 600, 800 grits give you a glowing satin finish - 1000 (or higher), cloth or hand rubbing (without the paper) increases the gloss to levels that match urethanes.

One bottle will do the work of an entire shelf of other finishes. And the smoothness durability, and beauty are superb.
 
Chuck Gedraitis Knives said:
A big part of knife making is learning how to fix your screw ups.
Click to expand...
Yeah, as a new knife maker operating with about $150 worth of equipment in an apartment, I know this well! On this knife I didn't actually have any screw ups to fix...until it started raining cats. I guess it was just destiny and inevitable that I would have a mess up to correct somewhere along the way.

@i4marc: You must own Arrow Wood Finish. lol Thanks for the tips.
 
Last edited:
i4Marc said:
That is a beautiful cat. Anyone who hates cats for being cats surely doesn't understand the species. Cats are curious, playful and mischievous with a healthy dose of attitude. It is annoying at times but part of their charm. The knife will be ok. You can sand it out but you might want to try Arrow Wood Finish. Here is what the product review or description on one website says:

Arrow Wood Finish : This is a favorite, Oil finishes are great.....if you have lots of time an patience. ARROW solves that. It takes 90% less work per coat, and 90% less coats to complete the job (compared to any other oil finish). This product can repair any existing finish without stripping (even epoxies and urethanes)....it can restore the appropriate look to any existing finish (from absolutely dull to extremely shiny - or any where in between). But its true glory is in starting from raw (or stained) wood.

ARROW will seal the wood making it very weather resistant, while staying flexible which prevents chipping, cracking and "white line" scratches! i.e. : A live (green) Elm was cut down and 2" thick slices cut from it. Each slice was sanded to about 80 grit. Each slice (the same day the tree was cut) was sealed with different sealers - including man various types - according to their directions. One was sealed with ARROW. Of those 20 slices only one lasted longer than 24 hours! They all cracked and fell apart except for the ARROW finished one! That one has lasted over 15 years so far!

ARROW fills the wood with a natural filler which will not leave white freckles or dull checkering tools. It is about 10 times as effective as the separately sold fillers. (that's one less expense....and job!) In our demonstrations we cut a scar in a gun stock that will take about 20 minutes of sanding and three days of finishing to repair...and complete the total repair in under 60 seconds. (Quickie Summary: Wipe the finish on, wet sand it in with wet-or-dry paper matched to the roughness of the scratch, buff dry to the touch by hand or cloth. Maximum time to rub dry....5 minutes.

ARROW creates the finish YOU want. You control the gloss by the coarseness of the paper you rub it in with. Adjust by adding coats and changing the paper. For instance, using 320 or 400 grit paper gives a matte (non-reflective) finish 500, 600, 800 grits give you a glowing satin finish - 1000 (or higher), cloth or hand rubbing (without the paper) increases the gloss to levels that match urethanes.

One bottle will do the work of an entire shelf of other finishes. And the smoothness durability, and beauty are superb.
Click to expand...
that was enjoyable to read , will buy this finish
 
i4Marc said:
That is a beautiful cat. Anyone who hates cats for being cats surely doesn't understand the species.
Click to expand...

Wait... people hate cats for being cats? I thought they hated cats because they are allergic to cats, and whenever cats are around they rub all over you making sure you allergies are inflamed. :)

Seriously, I think cats are cool... I just need to be careful how I interact with them... and they are less careful about how they interact with me.
 
I would 600 grit the whole handle with mineral spirits, and when the scratch it gone, wipe down thoroughly with acetone. Once dry, start the tru-oil coats again. It should come out even better than before the scratch.
 
"@i4marc: You must own Arrow Wood Finish. lol Thanks for the tips. "

Nope. Don't own the product. Just sounded interesting and thought it might be able to help.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top