How do I fix this?

Go Syracuse? Err Maryland? Er... well umm yeah. Hope it is a great game very entertaining and close with whichever team you are cheering for winning in the end LOL. Sounds like the kind of day I would suggest if hubby had he pour a good 2 fingers of Laphroaig and enjoy something sportsish :) Have a good evening
 
yeah everyone is just trying to do their best, bolt -- I am absolutely willing to trade you one of my unused kvluks for your chipped one, you can test against same tree to see if it could have been a defect, if thats the case im fine with a jagged edge, my favorite knives have jagged edges :D-- i just dont want auntie to do a refund, they need every dime
 
The thing about these khuks is that they all have soul. To me, that's not to bad of a ding for such a thin edge. 15 minutes with a file and stone, and I bet it never gives you a lick of trouble.

Seriously, don't sweat it. These KLVUKS are made to pound on:) it's got about 100 years of life left in it:)
 
Bolt:

Karda's offer to fix the edge for the price of round trip shipping seems like a fair deal to me (no offense to Harry Truman).

When you mentioned that it was a fallen tree the first thing that occurred to me is that sand or tiny pebbles might have gotten into the cracks in the bark, not necessarily noticeable. Even a very small pebble could cause the edge to chip.

You mentioned that you didn't notice the chip until you were done, so it could have happened anytime while you were chopping, and any debris in the trunk could not be easily found as the culprit, or it might have been knocked loose by the chopping.

One of the heavy chopper models such as an M43 would be less likely to chip, since they have a thicker edge profile, but even so one should be extra careful chopping on a fallen tree. I had the experience of chopping on a vertical stump of a redwood tree that was close to ground level. That was with an axe, and it ended up with plenty of edge dings because sand and small pebbles had found their way into the bark over many years. It's also possible to chop through part of the trunk, and the edge slams into the ground, although you would have known it if that happened.
 
Hey now you can have a recurve in the middle of the blade if you sharpen it... Get creative with it... I Chop down trees about as thick as my thigh with my 16" Siru made by Dil Kami. Ok maybe it takes me a bit longer but at least it does the job.
 
Everything chips. Could be as simple as a slightly offline cut- that puts the stress laterally on the blade edge (as far as I'm concerned that's why most chips on good blades happen), instead of straight up into the body of the blade. Makes a huge difference. i have cut copper pipe cleanly with no damage, and then chipped the same blade on a hemlock knot because I was tired and the cut was slightly slappy. I would just let it sharpen out, unless it's right at the point of percussion-then either sharpen it out or take Karda up on his offer to regrind it for you.
 
Boltface,

I'm sorry and apologize if I came off as too stern. It was not meant to lecture you. Phil is correct about me. At heart I am a softie that will do almost anything to help a customer and volunteer my time here wearing many hats to help HI as best I can. Most know me here and understand my sometimes overt bluntness. I admit I am not always as eloquent a I could be. Sometimes I am this way because I have limited time and far too many things going on that beg my attention.

JW is correct. It could be a mis-strike which caused an lateral stress on that part of the blade leading to the tearout. It is not uncommon when a thin, light khukuri is used for chopping. to get momentum and force you must accelerate the blade more than you would with a heavier chopper meant for chopping. The heavier ones allow it's weight to make penetration rather than depending on speed. They also stabilize the blade better at impact than the lighter ones. At the tip or past the sweet spot, you would've likely experienced a roll of the edge. If the sweetspot was too overhardened you would've probably had a large chip out.

Pictures always make these look larger than life. I suspect this is pretty minor and can be easily fixed by filing it out with a bastard file. For asthetics you will want to match one side or the other to it's level. Then use 250- 320 grit wet or dry to reconvex the edge and sharpen it.
There are some great resources for this and other things in the link library that probably describe the mousepad process better than I can here.
 
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Steel is steel. If you use it consistently as an agricultural tool it will chip, ding, bend, etc. The user needs to get comfortable with files, grinders, etc.. Use will tell you when you can live with a ding and when it is enough of a nuisance to grind out. Axes, hoes, pulaskis, shovels, ... You can find an assortment of old tools in any old working barn. The farmer lives with them and works with them for years or decades until they are worn out.

Dedicated weapons or collector pieces are different. The owner may choose to put in extra effort to keep the item in top condition. To him the payoff for having the device always at top condition may be worth hours of effort that would not make economic sense for a farmer. Smooth, sharp, polished etc. It is not wrong to take pride in such things. However, given the practicalities of a farmer's life when you walk into his barn you will find usable, cared for, but not pristine tools.
 
Right now we do not have this knife in stock for replacement. Send the damaged blade to Karda for repair work.
 
Boltface,

I'm sorry and apologize if I came off as too stern. It was not meant to lecture you. Phil is correct about me. At heart I am a softie that will do almost anything to help a customer and volunteer my time here wearing many hats to help HI as best I can. Most know me here and understand my sometimes overt bluntness. I admit I am not always as eloquent a I could be. Sometimes I am this way because I have limited time and far too many things going on that beg my attention.

Thanks Karda and Yangdu. I think I'll either leave it as is or maybe file it a little but no reshaping the whole edge.
 
Here is a thread Karda has previously posted about this type of thing: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...ena?highlight=unsupported+chopping+phenomenon

Pay particular attention to the part about "unsupported chopping phenomenon". Lots of other good discussion in there, too, about some heat treat issues they were dealing with at that time. You won't find this kind of candid, open discussion from any of the "other" khukuri makers.
 
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