How do I remove etching?

iahunter3

iahunter3

Joined
Mar 2, 2011
Messages
515
First of all I would like to thank all of you for allowing me to learn more about traditional knives than I ever knew, and you all have given me the traditional bug, again. I've always loved traditional folders and I've purchased a few in the last few months.

The first I bought was a Henckles congress with carbon blades. I like it, but one of the scales is concave and it is a bit bulky in the pocket for me. Then I bought the ever popular peanut (SS in Amber bone)and a Buck cadet. I sharpened both and carried the cadet for a couple of weeks and then gave it to my daughters boyfriend (not because I didn't like it). Now I'm carrying the peanut. I do like it, but I also really like carbon better. So I ordered three carbon knives yesterday, #1 is the yellow cv peanut! #2 is a hen & rooster whittler and #3 is a boker tree carbon whittler, both the whittlers have etching, which I'm not really all that excited about. What is the best way to remove this etching? Can I just sand it off with wet/dry sand paper? I haven't received these yet, so not sure what to expect. If anyone has any info/experience removing the etching I would appreciate it.. also any other comments on the hen & rooster or the boker I would appreciate those as well.
And because I know we all like a picture:
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Thanks all for reading my ramble!
 
iahunter: The knives you ordered are made of carbon steel. What I always do with carbon steel blades and etchings (if I don´t like it), I just let it overgrow with patina and that´s it. You could also use polishing compound to remove the etching.

Hope this could help.

Kind regards
Andi
 
Thanks Andi, I didn't know how deep the etching would be. If polishing compound will remove it, it will be removed asap.. I would prefer a pristine blade, before I start using it and scratching it :)
 
I've had good luck using Flitz paste polish and a soft rag to remove blade etching. Might take a couple applications, but after you're done the patina will further eradicate any trace of original etching.
 
I'd also just go with polishing paste (Flitz/Simichrome). Using it with a buffer or Dremel and a cotton wheel might speed things up a little. Some etches will be deeper/denser than others, and it might hang around for a while. But over time, with an occasional polishing/buffing, the etch will get lighter and lighter. I wouldn't try to rush the process by sanding, as the scratches left might be more of a disappointment than the etch itself.
 
Thanks FG and OwE, I'm going to find some flitz!

Any comments on the Boker and Hen & Rooster brand knives? I don't have anywhere to actually see these prior to purchase, I guess I can just wait until next week when I get them, so much fun waiting for sharp stuff in the mail...
 
iahunter3 said:
Thanks FG and OwE, I'm going to find some flitz!

Any comments on the Boker and Hen & Rooster brand knives? I don't have anywhere to actually see these prior to purchase, I guess I can just wait until next week when I get them, so much fun waiting for sharp stuff in the

Boker is great I've had this Boker stockman for about six years and used it at work paired with a Opinel and it is one of my favorites, Bokers carbon takes a wicked edge and it is also flawless. Mine had a etching on the clip blade and you can't see it anymore, also your Henckles congress is most likely made by Boker unless it is very old, also Boker makes H&R, you should be very happy with your choices.
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I've been VERY pleased with all my Böker Germany traditionals. Good value and decently put together, a hidden gem in my experience.

Getting etching away from stainless blades is the real challenge...

Regards, Will
 
I have a Case CV Amber Bone Canoe and to rid it of the etch on the blade I just forced a patina on it with vinegar after sanding it with sand paper and that sorta covered it up but if you look pretty hard you can still make it out. I suppose I just didn't want to get carried away with the sanding.
 
whetrock said:
I have a Case CV Amber Bone Canoe and to rid it of the etch on the blade I just forced a patina on it with vinegar after sanding it with sand paper and that sorta covered it up but if you look pretty hard you can still make it out. I suppose I just didn't want to get carried away with the sanding.
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I tried to get rid of the Canoe etching as well, managed to polish the ink off, but the etching is deep...
 
Thanks all for the great comments, I received them today. I'm on the road so not able to do too much to them, but a little disappointed that there isn't a hard half stop on any of them... I mis-spoke earlier on the case, I ordered the pen knife in cv instead of the peanut. The etching isn't as bad as I thought it would be, however I will still be removing it. The Boker had better fit and finish than the H&R, but I'm still having fun learning the traditional patterns and producers.

I will upload some pics of my etch removal, if I get that far :)
 
I picked up a Boker copperhead in appaloosa bone, and although it looks good, the walk and talk is lifeless.
Im not too disappointed because I didnt expect perfection in a $40 or $50 slipjoint, but it soured me.
 
GEC black etching is so fragile it almost seems to have been done with a
felt pen; simichrome and a little rubbing will take it off almost right away.
Laser etching you're stuck with unless you are really determined--still
don't like to think of sandpaper or steel wool...
 
GEC black etching is so fragile it almost seems to have been done with a
felt pen; simichrome and a little rubbing will take it off almost right away.
Laser etching you're stuck with unless you are really determined--still
don't like to think of sandpaper or steel wool...
 
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2nd or 3rd for flitz. It's fast and safe. Also, what's up with GEC etches they are honestly gone in 60 seconds of use??? My Ben Hogan logo turned into B an so I just polished it off...just weird they didn't go more permanent for the PPPs, etc.
 
iahunter3 said:
Thanks FG and OwE, I'm going to find some flitz!
Click to expand...

Not a huge fan of etches either. You can purchase Flitz at most marine/boat supply stores... or the occasional knife store. I recently picked up a tube at store called Westmarine.
 
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