How do ya fix lock-stick?

Another thing u can try without taking it apart is clean all lock surfaces and ball track as best u can with luke warm water, a few drops of dish soap and a toothbrush. Rinse of with warm water.

And then a quick spray with ballistol in towards the lockbar and pivot. One quick spray is more than enough. Then work it a little while whiping of excess oil for a few minutes.

This also works if the track is starting to feel a little gritty.
 
S_iv said:
The cost of lifetime service is included in the price of the knife, so it's already been paid for.
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I'm going to politely disagree with you in this case. If a person is swapping parts between knives (and creating a negative consequence in the function or reliability of those knives) for the sake of aesthetics, then expects the manufacturer to fix it for free, I'd say the customer is taking advantage of the manufacturer. Just my opinion.

A customer pays for "lifetime service" on the knife that CRK delivers to them. If you have lock stick on a new knife that you haven't monkeyed with...then yes, I'd agree with you. They should fix it for little or no fees.
 
Call 'em, ask if they'd help.

Two slabs of titanium and a blade for the price charged has the service built into the cost
 
jacobconroy75 said:
A customer pays for "lifetime service" on the knife that CRK delivers to them. If you have lock stick on a new knife that you haven't monkeyed with...then yes, I'd agree with you. They should fix it for little or no fees.
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I appreciate your view on this. I'm still new at this, but from what I've heard/read, CRK 'dials in' a specific 'set' of components. That original 'set' has the guarantee. If components are swapped, I'm not sure that original guarantee should still apply unless documented somewhere that it does. It would be like swapping pistons and crank in an engine and expecting to keep the original warranty. That doesn't make sense to me. Of course, after explaining everything to CRK, if they knowingly decide to warranty an altered set of components, that would then be an informed choice by them which I personally would find acceptable. It would further illustrate the value of their customer service to the overall market and the individual and would encourage me to give them future business to help 'pay them back' for going above and beyond.

I have experienced this in other areas. When I first started riding a motorcycle and was looking to buy, one sales person told me to not buy the one sitting on their floor, but to buy something they did not have because it would suit me better at that time. I was very impressed by the integrity of the sales person. It made me want to give him my business and several years later, I was able to do that when I bought my first new bike. This thread is giving me a similar vibe about CRK.
 
TimButterfield said:
I appreciate your view on this. I'm still new at this, but from what I've heard/read, CRK 'dials in' a specific 'set' of components. That original 'set' has the guarantee. If components are swapped, I'm not sure that original guarantee should still apply unless documented somewhere that it does. It would be like swapping pistons and crank in an engine and expecting to keep the original warranty. That doesn't make sense to me. Of course, after explaining everything to CRK, if they knowingly decide to warranty an altered set of components, that would then be an informed choice by them which I personally would find acceptable. It would further illustrate the value of their customer service to the overall market and the individual and would encourage me to give them future business to help 'pay them back' for going above and beyond.

I have experienced this in other areas. When I first started riding a motorcycle and was looking to buy, one sales person told me to not buy the one sitting on their floor, but to buy something they did not have because it would suit me better at that time. I was very impressed by the integrity of the sales person. It made me want to give him my business and several years later, I was able to do that when I bought my first new bike. This thread is giving me a similar vibe about CRK.
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I think you are right, and that they would adjust it for me if I asked nicely and I may try that someday. The last knife I sent in was over $70 in shipping (plus the risk of shipping loss that comes with small, expensive packages). The amount of lock stick involved on this knife doesn't warrant that sort of effort to me.

I have three PJ regs and all of them have nearly the exact same, tiny amount of lock stick. I'm wondering if that was typical. Maybe someone who has a lot of experience with Regulars can chime in. My Annuals have no lock stick whatsoever.

Shiny blades are kinda my thing. The easy solution would be to put the original satin blade back in the knife. :(
 
Culprit99 said:
Lube/graphite/anti-seize isn't the answer - you need to go the opposite direction and put some abrasive in there to lap the newly-mated parts to each other. Remember the Two-cent Trigger Job from the 90's? Put a little toothpaste in there, put on your favorite movie, and get started: click, reset, click, reset, click, reset... until the credits roll. Flush it out, add a tiny bit of your lube of choice, and you should be in business. If not, watch another movie tomorrow night. I mean sure, you could spend more money for actual lapping compound, but it doesn't taste minty-fresh! :)
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You have me thinking about lapping compound. What grit would you think might work?
 
Hit the mating parts with a sharpie, operate a few times, the look at the contact points. A rough grind can be lightly smoothed with a fine diamond to reduce friction, and the edges of the lockbar can be smoothed to eliminate sharp edges that might catch.
 
I just foresee lock slip issues in your future if you start lapping surfaces.

The whole ‘heat treat’ they do to these lock faces is to bring some alpha case into the mix to encourage a bit of ‘release slip’ so it isn’t sticky…

I would just send it in. Tell them what’s up.. they will still try and fix it even if they charge you.
 
jacobconroy75 said:
You have me thinking about lapping compound. What grit would you think might work?
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From memory, lapping compound is in the 2000 grit, or 8-10 micron range. That’s roughly equal to the 71-100 RDA medium abrasiveness on this chart. I wasn’t kidding when I said we lapped trigger sears with toothpaste in the 90’s. :)

1693354522670.jpeg
 
Modernflame said:
I'm very curious. Why does lock stick matter? I would never have recognized it as a problem unless someone told me it was a problem.
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I wouldn't say it's a problem, but lock stick certainly isn't elegant either. Moving from one CRK without lock stick to one that has it is a downer.

Not the end of the world by any means.

That being said, I've never purchased a NIB CRK that has lock stick. My theory is that it is caused by "Bubba" work somewhere along the knife's history.
 
Culprit99 said:
From memory, lapping compound is in the 2000 grit, or 8-10 micron range. That’s roughly equal to the 71-100 RDA medium abrasiveness on this chart. I wasn’t kidding when I said we lapped trigger sears with toothpaste in the 90’s. :)

View attachment 2304014
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I polished the entire innards of an aluminum Tippman Model 98 paintball gun with toothpaste on a rag when I was a kid. It went from a pretty rough cast finish inside to a really nice, smooth, and impressively polished finish.
 
Modernflame said:
I'm very curious. Why does lock stick matter? I would never have recognized it as a problem unless someone told me it was a problem.
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It’s annoying. Unless it’s severe, which it usually isn’t, I think it’s of no real consequence. But when you are used to a smooth and satisfying lock disengagement, a sticky lock is irritating as hell.
 
Modernflame said:
I'm very curious. Why does lock stick matter? I would never have recognized it as a problem unless someone told me it was a problem.
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Well, because when you go to close it, the lock sticks.

Would it be more or less annoying if it stuck while openning? 🤔
 
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