How do you achieve silky smooth opening of folders?

MTHall720

MTHall720

Joined
Sep 21, 2010
Messages
2,957
I have only adjusted pivot screw tightness so far. I was wondering if there is a lube that is good to apply to washers directly. Any ideas?
 
A solid design is better than ay lubricant. No all knives are created equal. Some lockbakcs have an extremely strong detent, other frame locks have a moderate lock that allow a flipper to be used. Materials and finishing hae a lot to do with it too. Polished liners will more often offer less resistance than rougher unfinished liners, washer material, etc. It all depends on what knife you are trying to get silky smooth.
 
Try Shooter's Choice FP-10. I did a bit of research before settling on this one, but basically you want something that's fast, doesn't gunk up or dry out, and doesn't have a really weird smell. This one seemed to fit those categories the best, and it's worked very well for me.
 
There is a waxy lube made for bike chains that works great and is designed to not collect dirt and dust. Sorry I don't know the name of it.
 
RevDevil said:
A solid design is better than ay lubricant. No all knives are created equal. Some lockbakcs have an extremely strong detent, other frame locks have a moderate lock that allow a flipper to be used. Materials and finishing hae a lot to do with it too. Polished liners will more often offer less resistance than rougher unfinished liners, washer material, etc. It all depends on what knife you are trying to get silky smooth.
Click to expand...

+1. :thumbup:

I've worked my American Lawman extensively and keep putting 3-in-1 oil in it but it's still one of the grittiest and most difficult knives to open I own. My Kershaw Cyclone is as worn-in as it's going to get after years of use and it's still never going to be as smooth as my Manix 2s.

As far as oil goes I generally use Hoppe's oil or 3-in-1.
 
I use BreakFree CLP; it penetrates well, and doesn't attract dust/grit once it's dried. Leaves a lubricating film that lubes and protects against corrosion.
 
It really depends on the style of folder and lock, is there a specific knife you are referring to?

CRK knives are best paired with a flourinated grease, I have used this on all of my other frame lock knives(with similar washers) and they have all been super smooth. I also like to polish the detent with a small amount of flitz,....very lightly though. Regardless of this, my smoothest folders are the ones that I have used the most, as long as you clean and lube them regularly, the natural wear/smoothening of all parts is what really achieves the silky smooth that I think you are referring to.

With that being said, there are also the 3-in-1's and Hoppe's like some other guys mentioned. These are great for other folding lock styles. I use them on my slipjoints, lockbacks, axis, triad etc. Regular cleaning/lubing is the largest factor in achieving a silky smooth operation, grit and dirt deteriorate blade washers and cause uneven wear. Hope this helps
 
Hoytarcher10 said:
It really depends on the style of folder and lock, is there a specific knife you are referring to?

CRK knives are best paired with a flourinated grease, I have used this on all of my other frame lock knives(with similar washers) and they have all been super smooth. I also like to polish the detent with a small amount of flitz,....very lightly though. Regardless of this, my smoothest folders are the ones that I have used the most, as long as you clean and lube them regularly, the natural wear/smoothening of all parts is what really achieves the silky smooth that I think you are referring to.

With that being said, there are also the 3-in-1's and Hoppe's like some other guys mentioned. These are great for other folding lock styles. I use them on my slipjoints, lockbacks, axis, triad etc. Regular cleaning/lubing is the largest factor in achieving a silky smooth operation, grit and dirt deteriorate blade washers and cause uneven wear. Hope this helps
Click to expand...

Thanks everyone. No specific knife in mind to make smoother, but I mostly have linerlocks, framelock, amd axis locks. BM, Kershaw, ZT, and CRKT
 
For long-term storage I'd avoid 3-in-1 oil on anything with moving parts. A while back i put 3-in-1 oil on an old shotgun that i was storing. After 6 months the 3-in-1 oil turned into a yellowy varnish that gummed up the action. I did get it cleaned up but i won't be using 3-in-1 oil on anything with moving parts again. If left on long-term it could gum up the action on a folding knife.
 
I mirror polish (or as close as possible) all surface to surface moving contact areas.
 
Both, but using a leather belt on my grinder with some green polish works best.
 
MTHall720 said:
I have only adjusted pivot screw tightness so far. I was wondering if there is a lube that is good to apply to washers directly. Any ideas?
Click to expand...

With a new one, start out with something like WD40 and saturate it. Work the blade, repeate the WD40, work the blade. Wash it with hot soapy water to remove any grit. Blow it out with an air compressor and dry it with a blow dryer to heat it up some and evaporate the remaining water.

Then you may not need a lubricant, But some outfits like Dupont makes a dry lubricant in a spray, that works well and doesn't attract grit or grime like an oil.
 
I keep the bearing surfaces clean and use a teflon lube during break in, and usually afterwards. Tuff glide on some. If the knife is engineered well, the steels match up, and the hardness is correct the knives get smoother and smoother as they wear. I have a 92 Endura that is so smooth it's like polished glass. It needs no lube. I use only lubes that will dry and not collect dirt or debris so everything wears in without scratches or abrasions.
 
I polish my bronze pivot washers with an extra fine Spyderco Sharpmaker stone. You don't have to mirror finish the whole surface, only the high spots.
 
I use CRK grease on CRKs and Hobbes #9 on my Benchmade and completely clean and relube them every couple months.
An occasional single drop of Hobbes keeps the Benchmade silky smooth and lightening quick.
 
I've never polished the contact areas of my folders but the ones that are the smoothest are the one that get used the most. I have been using bench made blue lube for about a year and it works great
 
I polish the washer on a balsa strop with 0.5 micron paste for a true mirror finish. Balsa beats leather in my experience time and time again. Leather works but balsa is faster, more responsive, and easy to find, and make your own great strop. I also use crk or the dupont fluorinated grease.

However beyond the initial setup for my knives I think use, and keeping them clean are important factors in the equation!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top