How do you all finish your kitchen knives?

timos- said:
I can see that being very handy especially for kitchen blades where dead flat bevels are not desirable. I will have to try it too , I wonder if I can dress a belt with it.
Click to expand...
It might work, although I've never tried it.
It doesn't fit in anywhere with how I do kitchen knives (I like an extremely thin full flat grind myself) but I use it a lot for fillet knives and things of that nature.
 
butcher_block said:
clean grit pattern before and light pressure on the scotch belt i dont use the scotchbrite belts tot cover crappu grinds justyt to even things out
Click to expand...
Whenever I've tried to use a scotchbrite belt on a bevel, with a flat next to it, it washes out the transition line. The only way I've ever been able to avoid it has been to tape the flat. Even if I use light pressure. The scotchbrite belt just has too much give in it and it mushers over the transition :/
 
comet_sharp said:
Hmm. My kitchen knife geometry is more of a Japanese grind. I grind all Post HT. I hog with a 60, finish with a 120. Then move to gator grit a100/65/45 then a 400 cork belt. Then I will finish my top bevel or "flat" (sometimes flat, sometimes not..) to 600 grit and bevel to 1000 grit. or I will handsand to 600 and finish the lower bevel by hand on waterstones. If i do a standard convexed grind I just blend everything into convex on my flat platen and handsand to a solid 600. I find I am never satisfied with how thin I can get a knife behind the edge on a grinder so I thin all knives behind the edge manually on an atoma 140, shapton glass 220, naniwa 400 grit stones before handsanding/finishing.
Lower bevel was thinned on stones, hand sanded to 1000 grit then polished with blue and pink 3m polishing papers. top is 600
nakiribox2_zpsvc8eclot.jpg

This nakiri was hand sanded to 600 grit. lower bevels where then taken through a progression of water stones (400, 1k, 2k, 5k and then 2 natural stones an asagi and suita. Then polished with blue and pink 3m polishing papers since I do not use a powered buffer.) Lower bevel was thinned to zero then microbeveled on the Shinden Suita stone I used to polish it.
These are double beveled knives.
-Trey
Click to expand...

That is a nice process there Trey. Nice work!
 
Late to the party but...
I use 60 to 120 grit ceramic down to around 0.02" then go to the disc sander to flatten things out. On the disc sander I use Rhynowet paper from 80 to 320 grit. I then use the rotary platen to convex down close to sharp, around 0.005". I use 120 ceramic first then go to gators in 160 down to 45. Then it's hand sanding from 120 to 600 grit.
 
60, 120, 220 ceramics then switch to a 12" wheel and go vertical with a100, a45, a30 trizact then a fine scotch bright. Anything on the wheel is just for blending the plunge and getting an even pattern, not changing geometry.
 
Kevin McGovern said:
60, 120, 220 ceramics then switch to a 12" wheel and go vertical with a100, a45, a30 trizact then a fine scotch bright. Anything on the wheel is just for blending the plunge and getting an even pattern, not changing geometry.
Click to expand...

When you say 12" wheel, do you mean contact wheel or disc grinder? Pretty sure you mean contact wheel. In which case, when using the contact wheel with a scotchbrite belt, how do you get up into the plunge with it? Or do you grind the plunge away prior?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top