How do you apply hard wax to sheath?

[Marion David Poff]

After you melt it, obviously...

How do you apply it?

Marion

 

[Salem Straub]

I usually use paste wax, and just rub it in. You could try using carnauba wax like you would buffing dope, run some onto a new loose buff and buff it onto the sheath lightly.

 

[rayban]

Marion, if you are referring to the bees wax process.....I have not done it yet...still researching it...but there's a couple ways of doing it....melt the wax in a crock pot.....either dip the sheath into it, or brush it on......

I'm still not sold on the idea ........

 

[TekSec]

There is a tutorial on YouTube, just search "sheath making". Shows him dipping in melted beeswax. Not my cup of tea, but to each his own....

 

[Sparljo]

I use a disposable paintbrush... or a bit of paper towel... or my fingers in a pinch.

 

[Marion David Poff]

Yeah, I am planning on using beeswax, I will melt it in a bain marie or double boiler.

Then I think I will pour it on with a spoon or little cup I guess. It's container would not allow for dipping.

I am gonna use a heat gun after it is applied, to get it to soak in, but applying seemed a bit of a problem.

I don't know that I have it licked, but then again, it may not taste good.

M

 

[Rick Lowe]

Why do you want to go through all that process? Pain in the butt for little gain, if any. Are you trying to water proof? You can do a good job of that with mink oil. Don't really need to do that even. You can harden a sheath by getting it really wet and putting in a home dehydrator. For most applictions, just dye and set in warm area. Finish with a product like TanKote or BagKote form Tandy.

 

[Marion David Poff]

Why do you want to go through all that process? Pain in the butt for little gain, if any. Are you trying to water proof? You can do a good job of that with mink oil. Don't really need to do that even. You can harden a sheath by getting it really wet and putting in a home dehydrator. For most applictions, just dye and set in warm area. Finish with a product like TanKote or BagKote form Tandy.

Well....

I think I will do it that way because I have everything to do it that way, and will need to spend no more money to accomplish that method.

And then, we will see.

If I like it, then it is worth it, if not, not.

Marion

 

[bikermikearchery]

Yeah, I am planning on using beeswax, I will melt it in a bain marie or double boiler.

Then I think I will pour it on with a spoon or little cup I guess. It's container would not allow for dipping.

I am gonna use a heat gun after it is applied, to get it to soak in, but applying seemed a bit of a problem.

I don't know that I have it licked, but then again, it may not taste good.

M

This is the way I do it. Don't over heat the wax, just barely get it liquid. Trickle it on with a spoon. then just fan it lightly with a heat gun, and rub it in. Done this way it wont cook the leather, or turn it in to a big wax lump.
This sheath has been waxed as described. Nice and moisture resistant, a little stiffer but not hard.

 

[69_knives]

I mix 50/50 bees wax and carnauba wax in a cut open beer can and melt with a torch. Dip a small piece of wool cloth (sock) into the melted solution and rub on the leather. Then use a small precision torch with a soft flame and gently melt it in to the leather at the same time rubbing in solid pieces of wax, both bees and carnauba.

I guess alternating the heat and rubbing with wax would be more accurate.

Careful not to get it too hot as the leather will get hard at 150F.

 

[Marion David Poff]

Well, did it this morning, in the cool of the night, and it worked like a charm....

1) Melt beeswax in double boiler. I have a pan that I use, just for wax, to keep from killing the kitchen pots.

2) Place sheath on sheet of aluminium foil or other surface to catch excess beeswax. I used aluminium foil because it was pretty easy to peel the beeswax off, and I had to re-melt the amount of beeswax I was using a couple times.

3) Drizzle beeswax all over sheath, (but not inside for my purposes because I put neatsfoot oil inside later).

4) Apply heat via heat gun, allowing excess to drip off sheath onto prepared surface.

5) Repeat for other side, or to coat the welt, or to to get the wax wherever you want it. I found more aluminium foil came in handy to keep it off the inside of the flap.

6) Do this until you like the colors, or until the leather won't take any more wax.


Then I did the inside with neatsfoot oil, of course, some got on the outside, so I rubbed neatsfoot oil all over, and then hit it with the heat gun, which helped it soak in everywhere.

Marion

PS - Images of the finished product at....

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=7060144

 

[Andrew Colglazier]

I simply heat the wax until it is just liquid, then immerse the sheath in the wax and let it soak up the wax. The leather needs to become warm to properly soak up the wax, but don't get the wax or sheath too hot or it will cook the leather and make it wrinkle and distort. If the wax wants to solidify on the surface of the sheath right away, the leather is too cool.

Remove the sheath, drain excess wax, and insert the knife into the sheath, and using the fingers (work rapidly!) mold the sheath to the knife. Withdraw the knife, wipe it off, and reinsert.

Rub the exterior of the sheath down with a soft cloth removing all excess wax.

Set the sheathed knife aside and let it cool off.

The knife should be well fitted to the sheath. Extracting the sheath might be a little difficult, but once it has been removed, the fit should be perfect. The sheath will be quite stiff, water proof, and retention will be very good.

Andy

 

[Marion David Poff]

I simply heat the wax until it is just liquid, then immerse the sheath in the wax and let it soak up the wax. The leather needs to become warm to properly soak up the wax, but don't get the wax or sheath too hot or it will cook the leather and make it wrinkle and distort. If the wax wants to solidify on the surface of the sheath right away, the leather is too cool.

Remove the sheath, drain excess wax, and insert the knife into the sheath, and using the fingers (work rapidly!) mold the sheath to the knife. Withdraw the knife, wipe it off, and reinsert.

Rub the exterior of the sheath down with a soft cloth removing all excess wax.

Set the sheathed knife aside and let it cool off.

The knife should be well fitted to the sheath. Extracting the sheath might be a little difficult, but once it has been removed, the fit should be perfect. The sheath will be quite stiff, water proof, and retention will be very good.

Andy

So, with that method, I would be killing two birds with one stone, wax forming and waxing.

I may have to try that.

Marion

 

[Andrew Colglazier]

So, with that method, I would be killing two birds with one stone, wax forming and waxing.

I may have to try that.

Marion

Yes. Just a couple more things; the leather will be soft, so be careful when inserting the knife. Also, don't let the sheath rest on the bottom of the container, as it will be hotter than the wax and could cook the leather. Keep the sheath moving in the wax, turn it over often.

Andy