How do you clean your traditional folder?

I learned about using bamboo skewers in a previous thread about the care and maintenance of pocket knives:

Pipeman said:
I carry most of my slip joints so they get pocket lint ect in the slots and collect the usual grit from work. I use those bamboo meat screwers for cleaning out the slots and under the kick etc. You can whittle them down to chisels to scrape without marking the steel. I dip the scewer in fine mineral oil to clean the slots and oil the joint. I like to oil bone scales once a year or so.
Click to expand...

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I'm very pleased with how much more effective the skewers are on nooks and crannies than pipe cleaners, match sticks, toothpicks and the like. As Robin notes, one thing that sets them apart is how much pressure one can apply without their breaking or giving way. They're also relatively inexpensive, and available at most grocery and big-box stores. Given their length, each skewer can last a good long time, whittled down when the end becomes dirty or needs a new or narrower point, and/or "feathered" to sop up more oily gunk when indicated.

Hint: sharpen your knife first, so that you can easily whittle or feather the skewers as needed. ;)

I also use mineral oil frequently, but have recently added Quick Release (specifically for pivots) as per a recommendation from Gunstockjack.

QuickRelease.jpg~original


Slick stuff. ;)

Portable cleaning, maintenance, sharpening, and carrying 'long:

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IMG_1533.jpg~original


IMG_1536.jpg~original


IMG_1538.jpg~original


~ P.
 
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As far as lubing goes, I really like Weapon Shield by Steel Shield Technologies. It has made a big difference in how smooth my slipjoints move. Using it moved a GEC 23 Pioneer Jack of mine from "I think I might sell this before I lose a finger" to "Dang...that's smoooove." Still a heavy pull, mind you, but more like a bank vault. Plus, it's made in western PA.
 
Hi Folks,

Thanks for all the good information.

As all of my knives may be used to slice apples and cut sandwiches and such, I've stayed away from oil...you know, "real" oil.

Anyway, just cleaned a few knives the other day and for lubricant, I used a hypodermic with blunted needle filled with olive oil. I'm hoping that will do the trick.

Regards,

George
 
Olive oil will work, but it can go rancid over time. It's not really a big deal if you clean your knife often with soapy water and re-oil it. I definitely wouldn't use it for knives kept in storage.

I use mineral oil since it will not go rancid and is still food safe. It's also cheap and a bottle lasts a long while, as only a drop or two is needed at a time. It's easy to find in pretty much any pharmacy since it's sold as a laxative. I've found a straw works pretty well to get the amount needed. Just barely stick it in the oil and then put your finger over the other end to keep a couple drops in the straw. When you remove your finger, it drips right where you want it to (for the most part).
 
Is it OK to sharpen traditionals with Japanese waterstones? I worry about the slurry getting in the works.

Sounds like a good flush with water and oil after might work.
 
pertinux said:
I learned about using bamboo skewers in a previous thread about the care and maintenance of pocket knives:



073287612051.jpg


I'm very pleased with how much more effective the skewers are on nooks and crannies than pipe cleaners, match sticks, toothpicks and the like. As Robin notes, one thing that sets them apart is how much pressure one can apply without their breaking or giving way. They're also relatively inexpensive, and available at most grocery and big-box stores. Given their length, each skewer can last a good long time, whittled down when the end becomes dirty or needs a new or narrower point, and/or "feathered" to sop up more oily gunk when indicated.

Hint: sharpen your knife first, so that you can easily whittle or feather the skewers as needed. ;)

I also use mineral oil frequently, but have recently added Quick Release (specifically for pivots) as per a recommendation from Gunstockjack.

QuickRelease.jpg~original


Slick stuff. ;)

Portable cleaning, maintenance, sharpening, and carrying 'long:

IMG_1527.jpg~original


IMG_1533.jpg~original


IMG_1536.jpg~original


IMG_1538.jpg~original


~ P.
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That's quite a Kit you have there! I do believe you have caught "the sickness"! :D
 
rma100 said:
That's quite a Kit you have there! I do believe you have caught "the sickness"! :D
Click to expand...

There was doubt? :confused:

:D

Thanks! I'm still refining it regarding what I actually want or need along with me (some of the pictured items are currently included just because there's room), but I'm pleased to have developed what I have so far.

The little $5 box works just fine (at a nice price), but I was hoping for a "little metal toolbox"-- once ubiquitous, not so much anymore.

~ P.
 
Great tip on the bamboo skewers! I've just been using wooden coffee stirrers and whittling them into whatever shapes of crevice tool I needed. I'll have to give those a try.
 
I would only caution against the use of Silicone based lubricants on knives used for food prep. Speaking from experience, Silicone tastes HORRIBLE and is long lasting.
 
Jackknife suggest a paper match. I use pipe cleaners a good bit for cleaning in tight places. If you like, you can soak them in alcohol, oil, solvent cleaners used for firearms typically or whatever. Useful.

Many don't have access to an air compressor. A can of compressed air works also.
 
Wipe down. Flitz for any bad stains. Sharpen. Ultra Sound for three 3 minute cycles. Compressed air. Oil.

A good Ultra Sound tank can be had from Harbor Freight for less than $100. You really get thing clean with one of them. Makes gun cleaning a 15 minute job and does a better job than solvents and brushes alone. The gunk that comes out of factory new knives will impress you the first time you see it.
 
I use the little plastic pick on my SAKs to clean out my traditionals on the fly, but I've used the wooden skewers for more intensive maintenance at home. The skewers are tougher for harder scrubbing and they can also soak up a little oil which is good for the little nooks and crannies. I've also used an old toothbrush (both dry and with a drop of 3-in-1) from time to time. Pretty low-tech, but it's done the job so far!

-Brett
 
jackknife said:
If it's just some pocket lint or dust, I tear out a paper match from the book, and use the ragged torn end to just wipe out between the liners and around the tang.

If it's gotten really filthy, like after cleaning some pan fish, I' swish it around in the creek or lake, and give it a good washing when I get home. Some dawn dish detergent and an old toothbrush does nice under some running very warm water. When it's dry, a drop or two of Hoppies gun oil, 3-in-1, or in an emergency a drop off the car dipstick will do. In a pinch, just about anything will do until something better comes along. I've even used a drop of cooking oil on a match end when visiting down south once.

Slip joints ain't rocket science, it don't take much to keep them running for a few decades. :D

Carl.
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Very good advice, never heard of using oil off of the dipstick before. I use toothpicks sometimes, and if I am restoring a knife, I first take off rust with Scotch-Brite, sharpen, then give it a good soak in mineral oil to lift all the grit, gunk and goo out of the knife. A good cleaning using Qtips inside and a Qtip with the fluff cut off for the pivots. But a match from a matchbook works best for fine scrubbing. I use mineral oil because it is food safe, but I think I'll start using 3-in-1 on knives I don't use for food prep as it is easier to apply and lubricates a bit better.

One last word of advice: If you are putting oil in the joints, work it in until you can see a the oil on the tang of the blade, if it is gray or discolored, wipe it all off and repeat until it is clear or the same color as the oil you are using.

If you need clarifications just say something, I don't always make sense in my explanations.

Cheers,
Connor

ETA: I forgot about the little wood nail tool I use for cleaning as well. it has a pointed end and a chisel end, like those shown in this stock photo.

 
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A couple folks have mentioned a good soak in mineral oil. I don't like to assume anything so I need to ask - are you soaking the entire knife or just the pivot joint? I am also assuming that mineral oil is pretty mild stuff so it won't do any damage to wood or bone scales?
 
For general pocket grunge cleaning I use a contact cleaner and lube spray meant for pots and switches. Blows the dust out and leaves a bit of coating which you can supplement with a drop of oil at the pivot.
 
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