How do you cut/install mosaic pins and mosaic lanyard tubes?

O

Omega Leather Works

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Jun 13, 2007
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Hi guys,

I did some searching and came some good info, but not definitive answers.

I'm building a Gene Martin made knife Kit that also has mosaic pins and a nice mosaic lanyard tube. I'm doing a build along thread in the Workshop sub forum btw, if anyone wants to come by and offer advice...
Anyway, I need to know exactly how to cut the pins and lanyard tube. Fortunately they are high quality and have carbon fiber rods that separate the bright rods, not just epoxy, so I assume they are pretty stable, but I'm afraid of over heating them.

How long should I cut them too?

After I have installed them, what should I use to level them with the scales?

Should I fully shape the scales before I glue the pins and tube in?

Also, I'm using very nice stabilized wood. Now that I'm starting to shape them, how do I get the luster/figure back?

Here are a couple of random pics.

Pins and tube.

IMAG1474_zpsaf05db6e.jpg


Wood.

IMAG1483_zps6f85f9b7.jpg


I have a million questions, but I'm going to try to keep them in my other thread. I guess I'll need to bounce back and forth though.

Thank you so much in advance for any and all advice. Please answer as many of the questions as you feel comfortable answering, I really don't want to screw this up. :)
 
You should drill the scales first, then mount them along with the rivets and tube all in one step. The rivets/tube should stick out a bit past the handle when gluing up. I usually go about 1/4" extra per side.

Make sure you "clock" the rivets and tube so the pattern is right. The square should be set as a diamond, with a corner at 12:00. The tube isn't as finicky, but either make a black space at 12:00 or put a round pin there. If the rivets/tube are off even a little, it will stick out like a sore thumb.
 
Gotcha. What do you use to cut the stuff?

Also, I've had trouble in the past with wood/micarta/whatever sinking below the level of pins when trying to surface grind them. How do I avoid that?
 
Cut them with a hacksaw that has a 24TPI blade.

After the glue is fully cured, saw off the stubs and then file them flush with the wood. Use a wooden block as a backer when doing the final sanding over the pins.
 
I remember something I need an answer to, actually pretty quickly if possible.

I've already drilled all of the necessary holes, but I'd like them to fit the pins better.

I've read a few times that you should use the knife as the guide to drill the holes in the scales. I didn't do this because I'm afraid of the press grabbing the blade. Is it actually okay (safe) to use my press to run the bit through the scales and blade once to align everything?

I'm getting ready to do this right now so advice is appreciated!
 
The blade should not be sharp at this point, so that isn't a worry. But, anytime you drill a long object, especially a blade, you should clamp a stop block to the drill press table to prevent "helicoptering". When drilling the actual tang it is best to clamp the blade down.

Placing a block of hardwood below the scales will prevent tear-out when the bit comes through. Sharp bits drill cleaner holes.
 
Excellent my friend, thank you. I'm very fortunate in that I didn't have a good assortment of bits, junk mostly, but I went to my storage and looked through my old stuff. I found a treasure trove of great things including a huge kit of NOS (U.S. made) Craftsman bits. Gotta be over 100 in there and they're organized. Included are the exact bits I need, a size V, and an F.

Seems my father left me a little more than I thought, and he always bought quality. :)
 
Ha! That was easy enough. I was fiddling with it and lowered the press to line it up. While doing so, I noticed that the bit was cutting the hole even as I was turning the chuck by hand. The pins and tube fit much better.
 
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