How do you finish YOUR G-10 or Micarta scales?

L

Line_of_weakness

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Feb 8, 2014
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Hi all. Another topic I would like get some more opinions on is how you finish your laminate scales?

I've tried:

gradual sanding to 800-1500 grit method with white buffing rouge on a muslin wheel.

sanding to 400 grit then going to get a beer and calling it done.

CA coat and then sand (not great)

I haven't been thrilled with any of the results. I don't get the luster I want out of a two tone G-10, and I certainly don't get the grid pattern that you get from beadblasting. I understand that with beadblasting you remove the resin, while the glass fiber resists the abrasive, giving you a grippier handle and a better visual effect. Any other way I can do this? Organic acids or solvents? Kryptonite? Human sacrifice?

How do you finish your G-10 scales, bladeforums?
 
I machine sand to 400 then hand sand at 400 or sometimes 600 then buff with pink scratchless compound. The pink compound makes it pop better than any other buffing compounds.
 
I didn't order any pink, so I use white. I'll toss some in with the next order. There's a certain point while shaping in the lower grit range where the g-10 absorbs and reflects light in an awesome, but difficult to reproduce way. I want that. All over. I have a wharncliffe Benchmade/Snody Resistor in 154cm that has glass fiber woven scales. It looks kinda like that.

I was also hoping for something that feels less smooth. I'll try the pink stuff and see what happens. I have a felt wheel I saved for a special occasion.

Pink compound going into my cart right now. Beautiful pics by the way Jason. You definitely know
 
Thanks. Let me know how it works for you. I was turned on to pink compound by Darren Sanders and use it on synthetics, wood, antler, and metals for the final luster. Works great. Use wd40 and a rag to clean of the excess if it happens to build up.
 
I haven't used G10, not yet at least. I have a bead blasting cabinet in the wood shop so I'll hafta try the bead blasted G10 some day.

I've used black paper Micarta sanded to 2000 grit and buffed with white compound for a high gloss finish but with use the high gloss Micarta wears down to sort of a random scratch pattern satin look so I may as well use a satin finish of some sort anyway and be done with it.

Jason, I think I'll try your 400 grit and pink compound technique as well. Thanks for the tips.
 
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Here are a few options

1. Machine finish to 220 grit then hand finish to 800 (yields a nice finish and color)

2. Machine finish to 220 grit, hand sand to 320 then use a scotchbrite belt on the grinder to finish (nice finish and color)

3. Machine to 220 and sand to 800-2000 grit then buff (even more color and brings out a nice sheen even with micarta)

4. Finish to 220 or so then blast


I like to do the first or last finish but all are nice, it depends on the look you are after. Green canvas micarta is a cool one to try with these finishes as it looks completely different each way.

I say machine finish to 220 grit on the steps but that is just one way to do it, sometimes I machine finish up to 2000+ grit. 220-600 is a great stopping point on the grinder.

You can spray the scales with WD-40, soak then gently clean off with dish soap and water... this will make the scales pop. I like to wipe down with a light coat of mineral oil, it looks great and they stay grippy.
 
This one was hand sanded to 1500X (after 500X, it goes relatively quickly), then buffed very quickly/very lightly on a spiral sewn 10" wheel with white compound.

It was a tad too shiny and a little bit slick, so I went back over it, by hand, with a small piece of super fine Scotchbrite and WD-40.

If I want a more matte, very grippy surface, I usually hand sand it to 500X with WD-40.


And that little dog barking is NOT mine, it's the neighbor's dog barking at mine ;) LOL
[video=youtube;9jVZlrYqIr4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9jVZlrYqIr4[/video]
 
Nick, you never fail to deliver. I've read some of your posts, and they are inspirational to say the least. Thanks everyone for your excellent input. I was wet sanding for the matte finish up to 600 or 800, and also buffing 8" muslin with white rouge, but both options yield a material prone to scratching. And this is G-10. Micarta is even more scratch-prone. I'll try the WD-40, but I think bead blasting is key. By removing the more delicate resin from the outer surface, you only present the glass fiber to the elements, producing a cool texture/visual aesthetic and increasing it's grippiness.

so I'm told.
 
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