How do you form your swedge?

i4Marc

i4Marc

Joined
Oct 19, 2011
Messages
5,047
The "harpoon" style swedge is very popular these days and for good reason. It is attractive and aggressive looking. How is this style (and the more traditional style) of swedge created? Can some of the more experienced makers who use this style please chime in and describe how you do it? Do you use files and sandpaper or cut it in with the belt then clean it up with files and/or sandpaper? Can you point me in the direction of a WIP thread that explains this, maybe a video post showing how it is done? I did a search but didn't turn up anything. If anyone is currently working on a knife with this type of feature could you document what you are doing if it isn't too intrusive to your workflow?

Thanks, Marc
 
Hey Marc,
I'm know I'm not the experienced maker you were probably hoping for, but I notice that you posted this a couple days ago and haven't received any responses.

Swedges/Clips can be tricky... I've tried several different methods, but this is the Reader's Digest version of what I do now.

  1. Grind profile, distal daper (as req'd), and primary bevels.
  2. Make a template for scribing the swedge/clip termination equally on each side.
  3. Grind the swedge on belt grinder with the assistance of Fred's Bubble Jig to maintain a consistent angle.
  4. Heat treat.
  5. Complete post-HT grinding on bevels and swedge... use Bubble Jig (again) to maintain swedge angles.
  6. Hand sand blade (including swedge).

I don't use the Bubble Jig much for primary bevels... but I use it on nearly every clip/swedge that I grind.

Below is a photo of the first knife done after the getting the jig. It is a very useful tool.
7085438429_87ff455567_b.jpg


Prior to getting a Bubble Jig, I found that the best method for getting a clean/consistent swedge was to draw-file it in prior to HT... then clean up with hand sanding (sanding sticks), post HT.

Best wishes.
Erin
 
Hi Marc,

We just shot this video [video=youtube_share;ohA9ZJctAXY]http://youtu.be/ohA9ZJctAXY[/video]

Pm me if you have questions, Fred
 
While it's a raised clip and not a harpoon tip, the camp knife WIP in my sig line is how I do them (it's pretty darn similar to Shawn's approach).

I have done quite a few harpoon tip blades, and I do them just the same as the camp knife.

I don't usually bother laying them out like in the WIP though. I typically just grind them in until they "look right" to me.

Having a consistent/repeatable method to grind in a clip/swedge is very important IMHO... it can make-or-break the look of a blade. And having them dead nuts even/symmetrical is a sign of a guy's control over his work. :)
 
Thank you to everyone who responded. I had been using files to cut my clips/swedges in but I was having a hard time maintaining consistent angles with each stroke. I just upgraded my two wheel Grizzy 2X72 to the TW90 w/ SGA. So I'm looking to up my game. I'm going to read/view each of your methods with great interest. There might just be a bubble jig in my near future. I will have more questions but I'm going to take in as much information now as I can before asking.

Thanks!
 
I use to use my belt grinder for them but I've been using my disc sander to grind them recently with good results.
 
I like to grind most of my swedges with the main edge up... it's upside down to me but I have better control of a steep angle that way.
 
For me it depends on the type of swedge, a drawn swedge I grind with the knife verticle usually, and a cut swedge I grind upside down like Daniel mentioned. A drawn swedge blends in smoothly front and back, like the picture posted, a cut swedge has a plunge like a normal edge grind. Cut swedges are more common on multi-blade slip joints to allow for room to catch the adjacent nail nick for opening.


-Xander
 
i4Marc said:
I had been using files to cut my clips/swedges in but I was having a hard time maintaining consistent angles with each stroke.
Click to expand...

The key for me is to angle the work piece, not the file. It is easy with a bit of practice to file horizontally consistently, not so much at an angle.
 
Id have to agree with GHEzell about file angle to work angle .The way I file is to maintain a repeatable stroke that is referenced off my own body ,i.e.,elbow at the hip,etc..I find that if I index to my own natural motions the work is easier and more repeatable or consistant.
 
Thanks GHEzell and Eric. That makes perfect sense. I was hoping to get around to building a knife vise at some point but haven't yet. So I'm still (for the moment) using a standard vise for the filing work. This forces me to file at non-ideal angles. I will try some ideas to make the vise I have work better for me but some of the other great suggestions made here are going to be very helpful. Even if I end up doing most of the grinding in with a disc or belt on an angled work table I will still need to put the blade in a vise eventually for sanding. Sooooo I still need to figure out a better way to work with my current vise until I build a more versatile one.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top