How do you get a stonewashed finish?

Lynn
Stonewashing cames from tumbling. Look in the industrial supply cats for tumblers. There are many combinations of media and paste. I am doing some of my own here in the shop. Its about 500.00 to set up for small folders like I make. Larger knives will require a larger tumbler..

Good luck..


------------------
Web Site At www.infinet.com/~browzer/bldesmth.html
New Web at www.darrelralph.com

 
Why do you want to go to that finish, Lynn, just out of curiosity? I have only one knife that uses it, a REKAT Pioneer (1st gen. of course!) and I go from liking it okay to disliking it a bit. I'm not real sold on it. I think it's a little TOO busy, if that makes sense. My thoughts on the Kydex part of your question: When Kydex scratches a blade it is usually unidirectional, in line with the long axis of the knife (i.e. from butt to tip). The stonewashing effect puts tons of little scratches in every direction. If the Kydex scratches the knife, it will probably still stand out pretty noticeably. The problem with the stonewash vs a satin finish is that you can't refinish it easily on your own, so the scratches will remain. I would think the small abrasions would be hardly noticeable on a stonewashed knife, but the big long ones would be just as ugly.

------------------
My Custom Kydex Sheath page:
http://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Lab/1298/frames.html
Palmer College of Chiropractic
On Two Wheels
agocs_s@dd.palmer.edu
Madpoet (Mel Sorg, Jr.) Tribute page:
http://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Lab/1298/madpoet/main.html

 
I like stonewashed blades for working knives. They'll hide scratches much better than bead blasted blades, which is Lynn's standard finish. Are you considering making this a "standard" blade finish Lynn?
 
Lynn, a couple weeks ago I read where someone got an old dryer& took out the heating element, filled the bin with foam rubber, and stuck a plastic bucket with a lid in the middle. Then they put the medium and knives in the bucket and ran it for a while. Said it made an excellent tumbler for stonewashed blades.

------------------
"Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!"
 
Lynn,
I have been tumbling my skeletonized knives lately with good results. I find that it's sort of a pain on knives with handle material. Assembling knives then taking them apart for finishing is very time consuming. Also, tumbling rounds the corners of the tangs making a good fit to the handle material impossible
frown.gif

One other thing... NO time is saved over bead blasting! Grinder marks show through no matter what medium I use. I have to finish my knives with 400 before I put them in the tumbler!!
I think for folders, as Ralph mentioned it would be great. I'm sure Ralph also does some of his frame components also??
I have a HUGE vibratory finisher at work. The biggest problem is finding my knives in the medium when they are done. I've seen good tumblers made from 5 gallon plastic buckets. The bucket is screwed to a round faceplate that is attached to a shaft through pillow blocks. Any small motor and pully system should be able to turn it. The buckets will wear out and can be easily replaced.
Neil

------------------
LiteWaves and Hawkbills in stock!
http://www.geocities.com/Eureka/Meeting/5520/index.html
 
Lynn,
I have been tumbling quite a few of my skeletonized knives. I have mixed feelings on this. Doing this with knives that will have handle material or guards can be a problem. The tumbling rounds to corners of the steel on the tang, fittting handle material to it is a pain! On a knife like the Sniper you would loose about 1/8" of the point of the knife before the finish would be done!
As Ralph mentioned, it works great with folder blades or even frame components.
One other thing is, I find NO time saved. In order for no grind marks to show through, I have to finish completely with 400. The Stonewash finish hides NOTHING!
Neil

------------------
LiteWaves and Hawkbills in stock!
http://www.geocities.com/Eureka/Meeting/5520/index.html
 
I have a stonewashed ATS34 Hobbit Fang that is rotated as a daily carry knife with my FrankenWoo. It's been in and out of the sheath as much as any knife I own and you have to look HARD to find a mark on the finish that you could attribute to the sheath, and I'd still be willing to bet that the marks came from a ceramic stick sharpener I own.
 
Has anyone tried a brass cartridge case tumbler? I've seen the ones that vibrate and Lyman has one that rotates. I wonder if that might not be an inexpensive way to get this type of finish for 3-4 knives at a time?

What do you guys think?

------------------
www.wilkins-knives.com


 
Kevin,
I have one of those Lyman vibrator types for polishing brass that I may try unless someone has had poor results with them.

If in fact it does work, what medium should be used?

C Wilkins
 
Lynn:
I think it is a very good idea to consider another blade finish other than bead blast for a standard finish. Personally, I find a bead blast finish unattractive and harder to maintain.I would much rather have a "rough satin finish or a working finish like Dozier does on his knives. Bead blasting hides the beauty of the blade steel IMHO.
 
Though I have no GREAT knowledge on this subject I have been experimenting with this for a short while. Recently I came across a 4 gal tumbler setup, like the 'Thumlers Tumbler', just larger and more HD. Using a cut hard stone media, giving me a decent stonewash finish on a variety of blade materials, though don't profess to be an expert on this, just working out my own wrinkles. Don't post much here, have much to learn, little to add at this point.

hth

------------------
Only perfect practice makes perfect

[This message has been edited by Freemon (edited 02-03-2000).]
 
Lynn
An old cement mixer works well also. :}

If you think this process helps with the scratchs grinder marks ect sorry IT shows every mistake on a blade or part. It does seal the pours to a degree.
I believe ceramic bead does this well also.
Neither process is a cure for bad workmanship. I feel both are a step up from plain bead blasting.


------------------
Web Site At www.infinet.com/~browzer/bldesmth.html
New Web at www.darrelralph.com

 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top