how do you grind your plunge cuts?

kevin adams

kevin adams

Joined
Apr 14, 2007
Messages
239
hi all ,looking for some expert methods here. I attended the abs school just recently,and had a blast. Forging i grasped without too musch trouble,well at least well enough that i feel cofident that i can improve with practice. However,grinding the plunge cuts was,and continues to be a royal pain in the keister! i apologize if this is something that has been done to death,and if there is a good link or two that might help,that would be great. Big question is,how do you all do it?
 
I have been grinding a square plunge with ceramic belts, then I transition the plunge out by running a 220 gr. AO belt about 1/4" out over the edge of the flat platen (the more flexible your belts are the better).

I do like the way Mr. Bump does things on that tutorial though. I just may have to buy a filing guide.
 
I do basically the same as NDallyn does except that I offset right away with the ceramic belts. This puts a bit of the curve in the plunge as I grind, after 60grit I move to an A100 trizac (same as a 220grit) and do my plunge lines with the offset belt. You can offset the belt as much or as little as you want to create either an exagerated plunge line (long curve = large offset) or a short tightly curved plunge line (small belt offset).

If one side is off a bit I line things up with an A45 Trizac (400grit belt). Has worked well for me.

Good luck.

Sean
 
I know this won't help much, but I just do it. Jump right into my plunge, I pick the spoit for it and cut in one using the 60 grit belt and then the other.
I always eyeball them to make sure they are even.
mapleprickedge.jpg

mapleburl.jpg

Del
 
I use a file jig, if making a high end blade. Eyeball grind it for working types.
 
delbert ealy said:
I know this won't help much, but I just do it. Jump right into my plunge, I pick the spoit for it and cut in one using the 60 grit belt and then the other.
I always eyeball them to make sure they are even.
Click to expand...

Del,

Love that knife! The 45 degree plunge is very distinctive. How do you finish out the scales without grinding away the etched edge of the tang? Thanks.

rmd
 
hey all ty for the responses,you all make some damn fine blades,im going to try with the file guide and see if that helps,also i think i'm gonna pick up some mild steel and ruin 15 or 20 feet of that instead of a blade shaped object i worked hard on! maybe by that time i'll get the hang of it. hopefully in a month or so i'll actually have one worthy of posting a pic of.
 
bruce great tutorial!,so i guess the guide is hard enough the grinder doesn't touch it. never thought of that.It was sort of hard to follow how dickie did it,although he did say it took him a good long time to get good at it,i watched closely but i guess my hands aren't as smart as his,lol,and thanks again.
 
kevin adams said:
bruce great tutorial!,so i guess the guide is hard enough the grinder doesn't touch it. never thought of that.It was sort of hard to follow how dickie did it,although he did say it took him a good long time to get good at it,i watched closely but i guess my hands aren't as smart as his,lol,and thanks again.
Click to expand...

It is hardened but tempered back so it wont break when the screws are tightend. Be careful to not bump into it with the belt and it lasts a good long time. This is the first one I made and the only one I own, its about 15 years old. I true it up once in a while on the flat platen.

Another good method is to file the plunges in with a chain saw file and grind the rest of the bevel. I really like the gator belts to clean up and match the plunges and then use a dremel with a cratex bullet tip to polish them.
 
well,thanks again,bruce bottom line no matter which method i use it's gonna take lots of practice i guess
 
I use 2 methods.
Both are modifications of existing grinders.
One can be seen HERE.
The other, which i use more often now, is a similar mod made for my Hardcore.

Basically, its a flat plate, with a radius that the belt runs over.
It makes a nice plunge, and pulls all of your grind lines parallel to the edge at the same time.
It's real simple to have nice even plunges this way!
Slow_Grinder_small1.JPG
 
Bruce Bump said:
Kevin I use a filing guide and leave it clamp on the whole time. Here is that section of the Harley Chain tutorial http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=474466&page=3
Click to expand...

I tried using a pair of 123 blocks as a guide, and it worked pretty darn well. It was also my first attempt at a 4 side ground dagger too. Too bad the belt drifted and I ended up offline just a hair on one plunge. That is the cheaper version of the true filing guide. I think they were like $16 at Wholsesale tool. Del, I wish that second photo came out clear, that knife is pretty smooth!

KW that is a real interesting way to get your plunges clean and even! I might have to try to modify my 4x36 delta after I get that upgraded.
 
gixxer said:
KW that is a real interesting way to get your plunges clean and even! I might have to try to modify my 4x36 delta after I get that upgraded.
Click to expand...
It works real well for its intended purpose.
I do use the version on the Hardcore a lot more often now though due to belt selection.

Brian
 
KW - that is one cool way to mod a grinder! Talk about the KISS philosophy in action - thanks for putting that illustration on your site! BTW - great site:thumbup:
 
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