how do you guys feel about knife steels?

G

grumpy_grinder

Joined
Oct 2, 2015
Messages
481
i've read so many different mixed reviews on them. I was just wondering ... as professionals what do you guys think about them? I've always used one at home on kitchen knives ... they're only cheap ones and out in the field dressing game. Would you guys advize your customers to stay away from a knife steel? Or do you guys use one yourselves?
 
I have a buddy who used to work in the meat packing plants in Chicago. He swears by them... He told me what he used to do was to get a steel and sand all the raised notches down to smooth steel and use it that way. I just recently bought an old steel from a thrift store and it doesn't have any of those ridges/notches/grooves that run the length of the steel. It works, really really well! But you have to understand what it is for... It doesn't actually "sharpen" the knife, it sort of "re-aligns" the micro bends in the edge, making them stand up straight and allowing the blade to cut more smoothly.
All in all I like them.

Here's a Wikipedia article about it.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honing_steel
 
Personally, when i sell a knife "As of now I dont ship, everyone who has one of my knives lives in my city," I tell them not to try to sharpen the knife in any way. When you have a blade at 62 hrc, I just dont think its worth the risk. I tell my customers that I will always sharpen my own knives for free, and often time they will throw in a couple of other knives to sharpen along with it. I just find that easier and safer.
 
A knife sharpening steel should be matched to the edge wanted to maintain. Polished edge? I would go with a polished steel. Personally, I really enjoy the ceramic steels...about 1200 grit. With it there is actual abrading going on...not just a "realignment". Technique is key, as well. Take one of those lined steels to a very hard stainless.....it's likely to chip the edge.
 
grumpy_grinder said:
i've read so many different mixed reviews on them. I was just wondering ... as professionals what do you guys think about them?
Click to expand...

Oh man, they are far superior to clay, wood, bronze & ceramic. They hold a great edge and rarely ever shatter :D. (Sorry, I read your title and had a whine & cheese moment.) I wasn't sure if you were serious, or I was missing something till here.

grumpy_grinder said:
I've always used one at home on kitchen knives ... they're only cheap ones and out in the field dressing game. Would you guys advize your customers to stay away from a knife steel? Or do you guys use one yourselves?
Click to expand...


A.McPherson said:
I have a buddy who used to work in the meat packing plants in Chicago. He swears by them... He told me what he used to do was to get a steel and sand all the raised notches down to smooth steel and use it that way. I just recently bought an old steel from a thrift store and it doesn't have any of those ridges/notches/grooves that run the length of the steel. It works, really really well! But you have to understand what it is for... It doesn't actually "sharpen" the knife, it sort of "re-aligns" the micro bends in the edge, making them stand up straight and allowing the blade to cut more smoothly.
All in all I like them.
Click to expand...

I knew what they were for, but wasn't aware that I could do that to improve my steel honing rod. The one that came with my $60 kitchen knife set is monkey shine. I always told my girlfriend it would work better smooth. Nice to know I wasn't blowing hot air. Thank you A.McPherson.
 
samuraistuart said:
A knife sharpening steel should be matched to the edge wanted to maintain. Polished edge? I would go with a polished steel. Personally, I really enjoy the ceramic steels...about 1200 grit. With it there is actual abrading going on...not just a "realignment". Technique is key, as well. Take one of those lined steels to a very hard stainless.....it's likely to chip the edge.
Click to expand...

I might do the same. From what I've read and a logical point of view the micro edge will deteriote over time from being re-aligned back and forth. like a piece of copper wire being bent back and forth. So maybe the ceramic rod would be better , re-aligning and taking down a bit of edge always somewhat keeping it from exhausting itself maybe? I just wonder how they fare out in packs and in quads and in -20 to -40 degrees celsius.
 
If it's an actual steel, for re-aligning an edge, and not a hone, I think they can be valuable for maintaining a well sharpened edge, just as long as the user understands how to use it.
 
Don't use it like they show on TV shows (rapid quick) but all in all it works well to keep my chefs knife tuned between sharpenings.
 
As a full time butcher, steels are an everyday thing for me. I only use a ceramic one that is 1000 grit and a polished metal steel. About 2 beef in I have to use the smooth metal steel, just twice on each side normally and that will bring the edge back to an acceptable feel. 2 beef after that and the metal steel no longer does the job so I go to the ceramic about 10 times on each side and Im back to hair popping sharp and the cycle starts over.
 
I've used steels since 1972. I learned early, as my dad was a government meat inspector at the Hormel plant. All of the inspectors and slaughterhouse workers used and still use steels, usually smooth. I have both smooth and grooved steels. Also ceramic and diamond rods. I have long, expensive steels and short, cheap ones. My favorite is a $2.99 grooved steel I bought from SMKW. It takes off metal but not excessively so. After steeling everything from 420HC to fairly hard D2, I strop and put on an impressively sharp edge. As much as I like stones, I'm still a big fan of the steel!

Joe
 
Yugami is right, if you are touching the very apex to an hard substrate it has to be done super steady and deliberate...depending on your control YMMV.

Very hard steels and keen sharpened edges benefit more from different treatments...has a straight razor ever been "steeled" or honed on a diamond rod???!!!
 
A lot of meat cutters depend on them, and we depend on the meat cutters, so I'll trust their judgement...OTOH, I've had more than a few professional butchers tell me they don't like a very sharp knife, so go figure...
It's rare to see a steel used properly. Bob Kramer published a youtube video showing a much better technique than the one we commonly see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUdrRE7W0b4
Most people who hone use waaaaay too steep an angle, and try to do it fast....slow is better and saves time in the long run.
A ridged steel hone will give you a pretty coarse edge, but if you like that, it's fine- ceramic or smooth steel for a finer, polished edge.
Using a ceramic hone and a light touch is a good idea if you have knives that are very hard- it's easy to chip the edge on a steel hone.
If you use a ceramic hone right and regularly you don't have to actually sharpen your knives very often.
 
I don't like them. When my blades need aligning, I strop them on a fine (6000 grit) ceramic stone. It is much easier for me to keep the correct angle this way than it is with a steel. I do all my sharpening on bench stones, and this way there isn't a step (steeling) that is different from the rest of the process.

Chris
 
stezann said:
Yugami is right, if you are touching the very apex to an hard substrate it has to be done super steady and deliberate...depending on your control YMMV.

Very hard steels and keen sharpened edges benefit more from different treatments...has a straight razor ever been "steeled" or honed on a diamond rod???!!!
Click to expand...

Ha Ha! Could you imagine what that would feel like against your face?!?
 
elementfe said:
A lot of meat cutters depend on them, and we depend on the meat cutters, so I'll trust their judgement...OTOH, I've had more than a few professional butchers tell me they don't like a very sharp knife, so go figure...
It's rare to see a steel used properly. Bob Kramer published a youtube video showing a much better technique than the one we commonly see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUdrRE7W0b4
Most people who hone use waaaaay too steep an angle, and try to do it fast....slow is better and saves time in the long run.
A ridged steel hone will give you a pretty coarse edge, but if you like that, it's fine- ceramic or smooth steel for a finer, polished edge.
Using a ceramic hone and a light touch is a good idea if you have knives that are very hard- it's easy to chip the edge on a steel hone.
If you use a ceramic hone right and regularly you don't have to actually sharpen your knives very often.
Click to expand...

Ive never known a butcher that didn't want their knife to be a razor. No such thing as too sharp when cutting meat. If it isn't super sharp, my day is miserable.
 
good answers here. I have a grooved steel I used for dressing game in the field. I think I'll look for a smooth steel and hone instead.
 
Frisky said:
I've used steels since 1972. I learned early, as my dad was a government meat inspector at the Hormel plant. All of the inspectors and slaughterhouse workers used and still use steels, usually smooth. I have both smooth and grooved steels. Also ceramic and diamond rods. I have long, expensive steels and short, cheap ones. My favorite is a $2.99 grooved steel I bought from SMKW. It takes off metal but not excessively so. After steeling everything from 420HC to fairly hard D2, I strop and put on an impressively sharp edge. As much as I like stones, I'm still a big fan of the steel!

Joe
Click to expand...

any chance you could point out the exact one on SMKW?
 
I'm not sure if SMKW is a sponsor here, but since we're talking only $2.99, I suppose it's ok to link to it:

http://www.smkw.com/webapp/eCommerc...ory+Error+12-14"+Sharpening+Steel/203112.html

Or do a search over there for factory error sharpening steel and it comes up.

This steel is suppose to be set into the handle crooked, but they all look perfect to me. It's a very effective steel, at least for me, and I can get supposedly sharp from the factory blades, like Moras and Marttiinis, up to a new level of sharpness. Same with Buck.

Joe
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top