How do you hold your blades when you grind...

I was interested in jigs when I first thought about making knives.I find them restricking and limit you,Frankly they are just out right
a pain in the butt,I can grind a blade up by the time you are done messing with a jig,I don't want to sound smug but learning how to freehand will not limit you to one type of grind
 
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This is the machine I use. The work rest is just the plate mounted in front of the wheel. It serves the same purpose your hand does on the spine grinding free hand. Its just a lot more stable when your working on small stuff that you can't get a secure grip on. I don't use any jigs.
 
Originally posted by ako Knife Lady
Beyond Kit's organic tool rest.:rolleyes:, can anyone give me a picture of a jig? Drawings or a diagram would wook also. I understand how a push stick works, but I've never seen a jig.

Thanks,

Pam
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Pam, those jigs just ain't woth it. They really limit you as to what type of grind/blade shape you can do, plus they are expensive.

Best to spend that money on materials.
If you need cheap practice, get some lattice/lath strips from the lumberyard. Profile some designs out of them and grind the bevels. One 40-60 grit belt will last indefinitely.
If you are bound and determined to get one, Kovals, or K&G carry them, I believe.
http://www.kovalknives.com/

http://www.knifeandgun.com/
 
that is the grinder you use. Do you have any other grinders to smooth out edges or anything. I have read some of your posts where you state that you use only a bench grinder. My grinder is one i bought from big lots for $20 so sharpen my lawnmower blades on it is nowhere that nice. Was that grinder about $100. also how do you guys get your bevel or flat to be even on both sides. Just do it freehand. Also matt the 8" wheel on your grinder is it big enough to do the whole blade or do you have to move it up and down as well as side to side.
 
i flat grind edge up no stick or gloves. also i have one 2x72" set up for standing and one to sit. i have had two spine surgeries and like to be able to take a break from standing.
 
Thanks everybody for your answers !

I think that my "holding technique" is not too bad, (because I was accustomed
like that) but I wonder if I can use a better technique...

I support the spine with my forefinger and I push the blade towards the wheel
with my thumb. The problem is that I burn my thumb very easily and with
thinner blades (like 1/8 or 3/32) I scratch my forefinger on the belt (Outch!)

Sometime I hold only the point of the blade with my thumb and my forefinger,
I burn less my thumb like that , but I have less control and I cannot grind the
point like that ...

Any suggestions ? Especially for grinding the point!

Alain M-D
 
jdaniels
I use that grinder and only that grinder for the blade bevels. I also use it to profile, but follow that up with a disc/beltsander to get square edges around the handle and spine, a file would serve the same purpose only a little slower.
The 8" wheel is plenty big to do the whole blade. Its a really simple technique. Do you have any hollow ground knives? The bevel to the blade is slightly concave/dished in rather than a cross section like this \/ (flat grind) you get one more like this )( only its triangular instead of getting wider at the bottom.
I just rest the spine on the work rest, and slide the blade slowly from side to side working all the way from tip to ricasso back and forth. It should form a groove somewhat centered running the length of the blade. If you are careful you can feel the blade sit in this groove. Just ride the groove back and forth and as it gets wider you can adjust the amount of pressure you apply towards the cutting edge or spine to adjust the angle and width of the bevel, switch sides fairly often to keep them even. Its hard to explain. If you spend some time at the grinder it will probably come to you all at once and make sense.
That grinder costs about $100. Its a quality machine but not the best I've run (thats why Baldors cost $400!). The half horsepower motor has plenty of power but gets pretty hot after an hour or so. It ran rough as hell when I got it, but the wheels just needed trued up. It comes with a stone dresser so thats no problem at all. I'd recommend it to anyone looking for a grinder in that price range.
 
Exactly like you, switch hands and use the same grip for the other side. Taught to me by Nick Wheeler in his shop.
Same for flat, hollow or convex grinding.

Dave
 
I use a different method than has been described so far. Just goes to show theres no right or wrong way. In my knifemaking beginning I had a hard time with the free hand grinding. I spent a few days with Darrel Ralph and he made me a grinding mirror block that took care of the problem. No more burnt fingers! ;) I do mostly folders with less than 4" blades. I do use fresh belts and dip in water after every pass other wise you can burn the temper out real quick since theres no heat on your fingers. I bought a larger work table than came with the grinder and then exoxied a larger piece of stainless on it. I grind tip up to start on both side till there even, then flip it over and to the top of the blade and then clean up the flats. After the hollow grind is nearly finished I take it off the mirror block and finish it by hand on the grinder at 400 grit.I didnt have my 10" grinding wheel set up for the pics but this would work well too if you like flat grinds. You just need to pull across the grinder straight. :)
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grinding block.....

3/16 pivot pin and 1/16 steel dowel pins on each side for the angle you want on both sides of the blade grind.

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Originally posted by Matt Shade
[BThis is the machine I use. The work rest is just the plate mounted in front of the wheel. It serves the same purpose your hand does on the spine grinding free hand. Its just a lot more stable when your working on small stuff that you can't get a secure grip on. I don't use any jigs. [/B]
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Hey Matt, instead of using the work rest, have you ever thought of switching to something like a ring clamp to clamp to the end of your folder blades for grinding? This then gives you an extra 4" long "tang" to hold onto when grinding. The limitations I would see with using the work rest is when you're flat grinding your folder blades, it would be difficult to establish plunge cuts that are anything but 90 degrees (i.e., you can't make angled ones if you so desired). This tip works really well. You can get a ring clamp from any of the jewelry places, just be sure to get one of the metal ones with a screw that does the tightening.

-Darren
 
When making short blades like folders and on most stock removal blades that iI make I use a vise grip to hold the tang, the push stick is used mostly for stability. Gib
 
RokJok, I tried to contact Peter Atwood about his adjustable jig but the link doesn't seem to work for me and he isn't accepting e-mails. Anybody know where to find a drawing or picture of his jig?

Jim you said: "grinding block.....
3/16 pivot pin and 1/16 steel dowel pins on each side for the angle you want on both sides of the blade grind." can you explain to someone as dense as me what you are talking about?

Thanks, Lynn
 
Lynn, I attached pictures and now there gone. I will repost them, that should help.
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I tried putting the image tag on and then deleted the attachment. I guess that then removed the picture after I left.
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Thanks Darren
Thats a good idea. How big around is the clamp though? There's a fair amount of clearance between the wheel and motor, but its still pretty limited compared to a good belt grinder.
You can do angled plunges and stuff on the rest too, its just a matter of lifting one end of the blade and letting the other end rest on the plate still, kind of clumsy at times but doable.
 
I like Tom's reply:

Edge up. Head down.

I look right at the edge when grinding, both sides. The only rest I use is a board roughly two inches out that my hand touches, right between the pinky and wrist (not rests on, but guides by slight touch). The board helps deflect most of the grinding debris into a pile (off my clothes) and helps offer a reference point. Bare fingers let me know if the blade gets warm.

Dan
Bearpaw Knives
www.bearpawknives.com
 
I free hand it, sometimes while sitting down. I grind edge up on both sides, but I've found that my left side is much better than my right. I guess it's only going to take practice. :D
 
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