How do you keep your Sebenza sharp.

Stropping backwards on the rough side of a leather belt will reduce, not take off completely, your wire edge. You should eliminate your wire edge on your stones, then polish the sharpening micro-abrasions on your edge out by stropping. You are essentially pulling the edge "backwards" as you say to achieve this, and you can use a slightly more obtuse angle than on your stones when stropping to speed up the process a little.

Professor.
 
Before considering whether you want to buy a strop, think of what a strop does for you:

1. If you use low grits (under 1200), you can use a strop to sharpen your knife, getting a nice convex edge on it just like the Sebenza comes with. This is an easy way to sharpen a convex grind without flattening it. Of course, the easiest way is to send it to Chris. :)

2. If you use really high grits, the purpose is not to sharpen, but condition the edge. There are two things this achieves: First, it will completely smooth out the edge, removing all roughness. Second, if you use an acute angle, you can "draw out" the burr on softer steels, producing a wickedly sharp wire edge -- but also extremely weak, so weak it will deform if you touch it with your finger.

What does having a mirror smooth, microscopically thin edge do for you? Well, it's great for shaving, when you need the edge to glide along your skin, and cleave hairs off your face at the deepest point possible.

But it's a terrible thing to have on your knife if you're not using it for this purpose. Such a weak edge will roll, curve, and break, at the earliest opportunity. It is entirely a poor edge for a utility blade.

Not only will the wire edge roll and break on you, but the extreme smoothness of such an edge will really kill your slicing performance. You really *want* to have micro-abrations along the edge on a utility knife, since it makes it a fantastic slicer. In fact, if you're knife sees really hard use (like on a sailboat), you may even want to consider roughing up the edge with a few touches on a medium stone. It will weaken the edge a bit, but it will eat rope like a ravenous beast.

If you use an oblique angle on a strop, you will just take off the wire edge, and smooth it somewhat. Again, smooth is not always good. Smooth is good for skinning an animal, but not good for slicing cardboard.

For a utility knife, I recommend that you not bother with a strop. Just smooth off the burr on your stones (using an oblique angle, like I mentioned above), and don't bother trying to smooth the edge. You'll find it works well for everything but attempting to actually shave your face with it.

Note: if you keep a really keen edge on your knife, consider using a *smooth* butcher's steel to re-align it every few days, rather than trying to resharpen it. A blade needs realignment far more often than it needs regrinding. You should be able to lengthen the time between sharpenings quite a bit if you get into the habit of re-straightening the edge with a steel.

But then, nobody pays me for sharpening their knives, so keep your salt lick handy. ;)
 
and I let him sharpen all my knives. I have never had my knives so sharp. My Sebbie is sharper than my MT LCC has ever been and until now I thought the MT was my sharpest knife I had ever had. Tom uses a two step process of honing and polishing and it is amazing how sharp they are. Call me lazy, I'll let the expert sharpen them while I'm in the area. regards, chieftd
 
Back
Top