How do you lube slipjoints

If it feels gritty then it may in fact be grit in the pivot, the bane of my existence.
I flush with water or WD-40 to get the grit out, then lube with a low viscosity mineral oil.
 
I put oil on both sides of the tang while the knife is closed and also a little on the back of the tang so it has lube when it makes contact with the spring as you open/close.
 
If it is gritty, you might want to add a big drop of oil and work the blade back and forth. Also, you can use an old toothbrush and clean off the tang and spring area. If it is still gritty, use compressed air from a pump or keyboard cleaner to blow it out.
 
Sometimes a little bit of hot water to start it off and clean all the buffing compound out, then dry it and dry it well, then a drop of oil in the joint should help. I like to use Hoppes #9, but if you plan on using your knife for food prep be wary.
 
Yeah
Give it work out in some hit washing up water.
Dry thoroughly
WD40 to repel any moisture
Dry again
Oil
 
This is what I do.
flush with wd-40
blow out pivot with compressed air
repeat until I am sure it's clean
lube with a dry lube
I use Finish Line dry lube. You can find it at almost all bicycle shops
Let it dry before throwing it back in your pocket.
 
  • Like
Reactions: HWF
Usually I just use a drop of oil in the joint using a needle oiler. But if it’s gritty I’d flush it with hot water from the tap and work the blade(s) back and forth under the water. Then dry it well and oil the joint, working the oil into the joint a few times. Drop it in my pocket and go.
 
I see that no one lets their knife soak overnight in a container of their favorite lubricants.

Hmmmm, food for thought.
 
We get this question on the Buck forum all the time. 99% of the time it is with a gritty 110. The standard answer begins with wash out with dawn dish soap and really hot tap water. Brush if needed, open and close blade. Then it starts to vary, some go the WD-40 or other cleaner/lubricant to ferret out the water, some just pressure dry with air. Then you either lube with something. 3 n 1, CLR, etc. Good surface wipe. If it going to cut apples at lunch then only mineral oil is favored. People sometimes can actually see the black buffing polish coming out of the pivot on washing, likely a factor of the 110 design. Generally, I myself blow dry, WD-40 then wipe down and lube with Tuff-Glide. Just because I have all that on hand. I think I have only bought two TG's with needle oilers in 20 years. So that tells you how much I use. I personally never worried about apple pealing as I would have cut cardboard, rope and who knows what before shaving a apple. Just a little wipe with pape towel or on you leg gave it the necessary health certification. I have soaked old Buck black Delrin scale knives in mineral oil and used a little Mother's wheel polish to get rid of the white off gassing crud from the scale. Soak the knife a little in mineral oil after that seems to get things right for a considerable time. Should work on other "plastic" scales also. Some people feel their way is the only way but if you just keep the lint dug out of the corners and put a little oil on it once in a while you will get by. Final finish on high carbon blades is more cautious and careful than stainless. 300
 
Last edited:
Flush with soapy water, dry out with compressed air, then give it some mineral oil.
Put it on the edge of pivot seen when the knife is closed, and on the tang letting it flow in while you work the blade a few times.

Mineral oil is available in a decent sized bottle for around $3 at any pharmacy
 
300Bucks said:
The standard answer begins with wash out with dawn dish soap and really hot tap water. Brush if needed, open and close blade. Then it starts to vary, some go the WD-40 or other cleaner/lubricant to ferret out the water, some just pressure dry with air. Then you either lube with something. 3 n 1, CLR, etc. Good surface wipe. If it going to cut apples at lunch then only mineral oil is favored.
Click to expand...
^^^^ This right here. Just make sure you get it dry when done, drop of mineral oil in the pivot and spread some onto the blades and backsprings, wipe off excess.
 
Last edited:
Easyrider said:
I see that no one lets their knife soak overnight in a container of their favorite lubricants.

Hmmmm, food for thought.
Click to expand...
Not for routine maintenance, but I've done that when I'm trying to free up an old knife with rusted springs and liners.

If a knife is just gritty, I'll slosh some mineral oil into the well and work the blade open and closed, until all the buffing compound or dirt is flushed out. Then blow most of it out with compressed air. After that, a few drops on the tang is sufficient.
 
Last edited:
I use warm soapy water and tooth brush... then a few blasts with some canned air. If it is a knife I will be using to cut food... I will put a few drops of olive oil on the tang and work it into the joint. I have been known to take my hard use knives into the shower with me to get all the dirt off, then finish off with some CLP.
 
I use the "rinse under hot water and mild dish-soap, work the blade until it is free from grit under the running water, adding more soap as necessary" -

Then a drop of 3-in-1 oil and work it into the joints - and another drop on the spring pivot area - sparing drops I would add.

Take you all the way - but any of the above-mentioned methods will do you fine.

best

mqqn
 
  • Like
Reactions: HWF
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top