How do you lube slipjoints

cb4life_30 said:
I use warm soapy water and tooth brush... then a few blasts with some canned air. If it is a knife I will be using to cut food... I will put a few drops of olive oil on the tang and work it into the joint. I have been known to take my hard use knives into the shower with me to get all the dirt off, then finish off with some CLP.
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:eek: Be careful! Mixing sharp with slippery can be a bad combination! :D
 

Ever try this? Video is cheesy AF but I've used it. It works well. It's not food safe tho and a little goes a very long way.

Target market seems to be traditionals, dlipjoints.

Think I got it at knife center or blade hq when it was in stock.
 
The pen blade on my 78 was pretty gritty, main blade was fine. I cleaned and oiled it several times to no avail.

The only thing that worked was cycling the blade about 100 times. Smooth as silk now. In my case, I’m guessing there was a small burr somewhere that needed to be worn down. Just another thing to be mindful of trying.
 
I'd flush it out with WD-40 and remove until the grit goes away. Then go with a drop or two of gun type oil like Rem Oil and open and close a bit to spread the oil out and wipe off the excess. I also use pipe cleaners to get into the tight places to clean pocket crap out.
 
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Peregrin said:
This has worked for me for better than 50 years. I put a drop or two of mineral oil on the pivot and blade, use a toothpick to dig out the crud and it goes back in the pocket.
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- this is what I do too.

In addition, if real gritty, blow through with an airline as already suggested.

The other thing I do is steal a few of the wife's Q-tips, cut them halfway at very acute angle so it forms like a toothpick point - then, also using that point to pick out the crud, I also squash the bud end in a clean vice and use it to polish the insides.

The oil applicator I use the most is this 'un... http://www.flashaholics.co.uk/products/stclaire-nano-oil.html and no doubt you have there at half the cost!
 
Old time sewing machine oil is good, now I am not BSing you guys, my father was training as a watch maker before WW2 and I have his three drawer tool box ( and some neat small tools) from that time. In it I found a small bottle of "Whale Oil". I have used a drop or two but gave it up as it smelled fishy. Duh. Also no one mentioned Renaissance Wax, pricy, but works great for carbon blades and natural material scales.
I have acquired several old Buck folders with big wads of lint down inside. The advice to check your pocket carried folders is good. People have emailed me saying I got a stockman that is broken, the blade won't go back in the well correctly. I say check for lint and have been right most of the time. I will use a toothpick for my teeth and then check my knife with it. Ha 300
 
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I have a CLP oiler that does a nice job. You can put the needle tip right near the pivot and put a drop on each side.
 
I feel there is no substitute for Nano-Oil.

I strongly urge any new slippie be washed throughly with a toothbrush and dawn soap. Dry it well - I use a hairdryer. Check for free movement of grit. If not free of grit, repeat. Then oil and such for use or storae. I have yet to get a knife from GEC that didn’t require me to clean it well before use. Only with Mammoth or EI have the knives been almost clean. You will find grit, metal being broke down, and grime comes out on the top spring(s) by the pivot(s). I will oil until that doesn’t happen in the beginning, after hard use (for a slippie), and during its use.
 
I've had to soap and hot water and scrub with a tooth brush on many of my folders. Then blow out the water, and oil.


I've had a few stubborn ones where eventually a sliver of steel gets spit out!!!

I've carried and used one three blade slipjoint for years. I've washed and cleaned and oiled the darned thing many many times. I finally took a air compressor to it, and got a bunch of metal shaviings out of the springs. Like a bunch. I've been working on getting them out for well over 4 years, but never took an air compressor to it.
 
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