How do you sharpen newly made knives

C

Craig Daniel

Joined
Feb 17, 2016
Messages
1,527
I was taught to sharpen new made knives on a slack belt, I can sharpen very well but keeping the same angle is the problem and a lot of times I mess up the tip of the edge rounding it off. Do you guys have some pointers or another machine to recommend for the sharpening operation? Any help or advice is greatly appreciated.
 
I use the flat platten and a A16 trizac belt then buff it to remove the bur. I can eye ball the edge angle when using the flat platten. I set my platten to the angle I want so I just have to hold the blade perfectly stright up and down. I am working on a little rest that will help me hit a more exzact angle.
 
Same as above, i use a jig and platen to raise a bur then strop off bur with 1000 grit belt. After that i strop on a piece of leather loaded with rubbing compound, then plain leather.
 
I set the edge on the slack between the top platen wheel and the platen with an a16 trizact then finish on 3000 and 6000 water stones.
 
I sharpen prior to affixing the handle. I have a jig that is just two pieces of angle iron with a flat square plate on the bottom(glued to one of the pieces of angle iron). I have a couple bolts running through them to tighten them together, so it clamps on a blade tang. Then I position the blade edge down, set my platen to the desired angle, and slide the jig across the platen engaging the belt with the edge. Works perfectly. I remove the burr with the stropping wheel from a paper sharpening wheel kit.

I picked up a Grizzly Tormek clone a while back but have only used it a couple times. I like the idea of water being on the grinding surface so the edge doesn't heat up. I also can sharpen after putting on the handle that way. It sounds good in theory but I'm not convinced yet.
 
I made a copy of an edge pro that takes 1x6 stones. I only use my belt sander for convex edges.
 
Any good YouTube (or other video) tutorials on this topic? I just sent my first ever blades out for HT (Thanks JTKnives!), and sharpening is just around the corner. I don't have a process yet, and haven't run across much on sharpening specifics.
 
Use the space between the platen and top wheel to sharpen.

Set the platen to the angle you want.

Hold knife perpendicular to the floor and gently put an edge one the blade using a 220 belt.

If you can hold the knife in neutral position the angled platen will give you the exact angle.

Then use a leather belt to knock off the burr and give a razor edge.
 
I do a lot of high hardness thin kitchen knives. I use a 350g diamond stone for the initial edge. I went through way too many course stones on the edge pro. I then use an edge pro and sharpen as fine as desired. The most high end knives get the water stone fine edge. Final step is a leather strop with polishing compound.
 
That's true I have a diamond stone that is 600 and 1200 grit that really put and edge on quick. But that's because I grind my edges thin so there is not much to remove to get the bur.
 
i use a jig to set bevel angle, then sharpen slack belt until you can slice copy paper. then stones, finishing with 1200 bench hone.
 
Rotary platen, stones and leather strops. Some folks have said that if you split your belts into one inchers, that reduces the chance of rounding the point or dinging the ricasso.
 
Willie71 said:
I do a lot of high hardness thin kitchen knives. I use a 350g diamond stone for the initial edge. I went through way too many course stones on the edge pro. I then use an edge pro and sharpen as fine as desired. The most high end knives get the water stone fine edge. Final step is a leather strop with polishing compound.
Click to expand...

This is pretty much my routine, except I just use Japanese water stones by hand instead of the edge pro. That looks like a pretty nice machine. I might have to pick one up. Thanks for that tip Willie.

For those that are using slack belt, aren't you getting a slightly rounded edge bevel? That seems counterproductive. ?
 
my last 6 or so blades, i cut the initial bevel with a 140 atoma diamond plate. It will keep your stones flat too. I cant believe how fast it is....I can cut my bevels at the kitchen sink in the time it would take me to suit up and turn on the grinder.
 
I create my initial edge on the flat platen of the belt grinder then go to Japanese water stones to finish.
 
AVigil said:
Use the space between the platen and top wheel to sharpen.

Set the platen to the angle you want.

Hold knife perpendicular to the floor and gently put an edge one the blade using a 220 belt.

If you can hold the knife in neutral position the angled platen will give you the exact angle.

Then use a leather belt to knock off the burr and give a razor edge.
Click to expand...

This is basically what I do. Gives a great edge for cutting meat. Cuts it like butter.
 
mostly thin high hardness blades so -
japanese waterstones, 1000 grit and then strop with loaded leather
sometimes finish with 6000 grit waterstone

i test with a 90 degree push cut
I don't think slicing paper at some other angle is adequate.
 
pleasanthill said:
This is basically what I do. Gives a great edge for cutting meat. Cuts it like butter.
Click to expand...

Yep,

I have fooled around with many of the methods mentioned here and the way I am doing it now is precise and does not take much time.

I forgot to mention the belt I use is a "Norax". That belt is awesome for this.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top