How do you sharpen you sebenzas?

On a wicked edge, and l maintain the edge with a whole array of strops( leather with black/green/white compound, and/or balsa strops with Cbn or diamond spray from 8 to 0.25 micron
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both the sharpmaker and the wicked edge. However, if I was in the USA, I would send it in to CRK.
 
I use the Sharpmaker...pretty fool proof and is very easy. Gets my knives "arm hair shaving sharp". I also use a strop, but if you dont hold the knife at the right angle on the strop, its easy to ruin that fresh sharpened edge from the Sharpmaker.
 
My preferred edge for any knife is a 15 degree bevel on the EdgePro with a 20 degree micro bevel on the SharpMaker. The compound bevel effectively makes the blade a bit thinner behind the edge with the micro-bevel making it more durable. That way, touch ups are easy on the SharpMaker at 20 with the finer stones.

The EdgePro process yields excellent, precise results but is involved with the setup, taping, water, catch-basin, cleaning, etc, and sometimes I'll just use the SharpMaker for both. Depending on the knife and its use, I may just stick with the SharpMaker and/or just use a single bevel.

For stropping, I use a green-loaded block, laying it against the SharpMaker rods to get the angle just right.
 
I've never bothered with setting a micro-bevel. I know there are different schools of thought on this, most of which I am too lazy or don't care to read. I use an EdgePro with higher grit stones followed by polishing tape. I use a leather strop and denim strop as well.
 
For those using the Sharpmaker, are you just going with a straight 40 degree or are you sharpening at 30 and then doing a 40 degree micro bevel?

Just curious. New to the Sebenza and just planning ahead! :cool:
 
I like to use a guided lansky at 20, then a 25 degree micro bevel, but only if the edge really needs work. I don't think I have used a lansky on my knives more than once each, and some of them have not needed it yet.
Most of my sharpening is done between 600-2500 grit sandpaper on a mousepad or ~2" stack of looseleaf paper (I like the small amount of give without any chance of folding the apex over, plus it is all around me at home).
And a green/black loaded strop.
 
aleforme said:
For those using the Sharpmaker, are you just going with a straight 40 degree or are you sharpening at 30 and then doing a 40 degree micro bevel?

Just curious. New to the Sebenza and just planning ahead! :cool:
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In my post above (#26) I describe sharpening to a 30 degree secondary bevel with the 40 degree micro. For a first sharpening of most knives this requires a re-profile. This would certainly be true for a CRK. Re-profiling is more easily done with the EdgePro, but I've done it often enough with the SharpMaker. I bought the diamond rods for the SM and certainly recommend using them when re-profiling for removing the excess material. I've also purchased the extra-fine rods for the other end of the process.

Once you've gotten to your initial apex at 15 per side, continue with the diamonds for another 20-40 times per side very lightly before switching to the brown ceramic rods. This will help remove the scratch marks you'll get from taking off that much material with the diamond hones. I also start my initial micro-bevel with the diamonds, but very lightly.

Next time your sharpen, you only have to use the 20 degree per side angle to touch up. Maybe just the finer stones unless your blade has become very dull or damaged.
 
I typically use my Sharpmaker at 40 degrees inclusive. My small Insingo came new with and angle > 40 degrees inclusive so I reprofiled on my Edge Pro. From there regular touch-ups were on the Sharpmaker. I have since moved on to a Wicked Edge for reprofiling work.
 
aleforme said:
For those using the Sharpmaker, are you just going with a straight 40 degree or are you sharpening at 30 and then doing a 40 degree micro bevel?

Just curious. New to the Sebenza and just planning ahead! :cool:
Click to expand...

I do a 30 degree which matches the edge that came from the factory. Then I give it 4 swipes a side on the 40 degree with the white hones for good luck :)
 
I hold a Sharpmaker Ultra Fine rod in my left and and Sebenza in my right lol. Freehand in the air, then a nice strop from an old leather belt with DMT .5 Micron Paste
 
fq55 said:
Same here. I use 2k grit paper.
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I don't go that high unless I'm going for a specific edge. My EDC Sebenza and Zaan stay around 400-600 grit. Sharp enough to shave, yet toothy enough to grab and slice. Nice to see somebody else uses this way besides my crazy self.

Doesn't CRK use convex edges anyways?
 
I use a Wicked Edge and set the bevel to 17-18 degrees per side. I start at 600 grit and progress up through the 1600 grit ultra fine ceramics. Finish with strop and then strop periodically between times I sharpen.

I used to free hand, liked it and got good results but the WE is just terrific. It's really expensive but terrific.
 
I use the KME system with a number of ceramic stones and wetstones. Then a leather and fabric strop.
 
So I just received my first Sebenza 21 in the mail today from knives ship free and went to do the good old paper cut test. Now I'm not saying it's not sharp, because it is, but I feel like my benchmade factory bevel came a lot sharper. Is this normal for a seb? I been thinking of getting the KME sharpener if anyone has any good input on using one. Thanks!


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Kwr - I've been pretty lucky when it comes to new Sebenzas. All of mine have arrived shaving sharp. However, I recently purchased a NIB Mammoth Mnandi that literally couldn't cut. It ripped paper to shreds, and even with aggressive pressure I couldn't cut my finger with it. Was kind of disheartened, but sent it back to CRK for sharpening. I am patiently awaiting its return.

I don't have any experience with sharpening, personally. I just send 'em back to CRK. They always come back from spa nice and sharp. If you can sharpen yourself, go for it!
 
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