How do YOU sharpen your Beckers?

moosez45 said:
50 degrees inclusive, or on the Lansky, 25. I find its good blend of thickness and angle to render a good working edge.

Moose
Click to expand...

WOW!

I just used the smart protractor app on my Droid to figure out what 25 degrees looks like freehanding on my ezelap and it made a huge difference!

Edit to add: Just tried it on my BK11 which I was having trouble with, and it worked. I must have been freehanding at about 15 degrees.

Never used a strop before... Its that just to remove the microburrs?
 
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I use Spyderco ceramic stones and finish them off with a strop loaded with Flexcut gold compound.
 
C_Tanner said:
WOW!

I just used the smart protractor app on my Droid to figure out what 25 degrees looks like freehanding on my ezelap and it made a huge difference!

Edit to add: Just tried it on my BK11 which I was having trouble with, and it worked. I must have been freehanding at about 15 degrees.

Never used a strop before... Its that just to remove the microburrs?
Click to expand...

Glad its working for you.

Strop removes the burs and polishes the edge to make finer micro serrations along the edge. A polished edge tends to last longer, as it lessens the friction along the edge length, and removes less metal when passing through the media you're cutting. "Toothier" edges have a better slice when pulled or pushed, but tend to dull out faster, because more metal is left rough and is removed when cutting media.

Moose
 
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Spyderco medium/fine pocket hone. If I am sharpening the 14 I just do regular back and forth strokes. To sharpen the 9 I do circles.
 
kg4ghn, I've got one of those Spyderco stones as well. They are extremely handy. I find myself sharpening with that stone more than my larger Spyderco stones. I generally use the stone as if it were a file, keeping the blade still in one hand while I drag the stone across the edge. I have more control that way, and its been working great for me.
 
I use a combination of Norton India stone / Bark River [black,green,white] compound with leather strop / ceramic sticks / Japanese water stones / Lansky ceramics / and sometimes a Hunter Honer / 400 through 2000 grit sandpaper with mousepad / Fallkniven DC4 (excellent field or just regular use tool) / Chevy truck window / sheesh.... I'm trying a bit of it all and for me the most difficult has been getting my BK11 [edc as necker] in order / finally got it and one of the Train Wreckers convexed / leaving the other BK2's and BK9 with factory grind edges.... just a work in progress... who knows where it all ends, if ever....
 
Started back in the day with a whetstone. Moved to a ceramic rod and then stayed with that for quite some time. Then recently a fiasco with a Lansky sharpening system thingy put me right back to hand sharpening with the ceramic rod. For the convex goodness, I free hand with assorted nail files/buffers, and I don't think I will be going back to a sharpening system any time soon. Once I get a belt grinder then I might use that, but for now, I am doing fine with what I have.
 
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