How do you sharpen your blade?

lucas, the easy answer is for you to get a copy of the US Forest service manual "An Ax To Grind" and watch the "An Ax To Grind" video. Sorry, I dont have the computer skills to link you to these.
 
Due to my job I have the opportunity to try a lot of different file types, some weeks ago I found one which has make me not to touch the others in axe concern. It eats the steel very well, taking in account it's a file it eats so much material it sometimes makes you feel you are machining rather than filing the axe. It also leaves a smooth surface, it's perfect for axe needs. I'm far from my tools now, so I will have to share some internet photos, by now. I'm speaking about Pferd's Fitter file,

658005423090_13172818058533_z.jpg


It has two faces, I start with this side,

04.jpg


Then I turn 90º and I use the side you see in the first photo, use the flat side, turn and repeat till you file as much material as you can. Make last fillings with the curved side. When I finnish using the file I use coarse and fine stone and that's it.
 
Operator1975 said:
I never prescribed to putting in the time to make a bit edge to a mirror or an awesome shine, because as soon as I put it in the wood and use it for an amount of time its gone anyway. That's more cosmetic than anything. Loggers that used an axe 8-12-14 hours a day had a wet grind wheel, file, stone, and maybe some sand paper. That was enough then, and we don't need to reinvent the wheel now.

Oh, and never use a grinder, ever. Just my opinion.
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as far as the mirror edge goes, it really, really does make a difference. once you remove the majority of the 'large' micro serrations you reduce the amount your bit is wanting to "tear" and get dull. For example, that axe above can chop all day and still shave at the end of the day with only being stropped with my leather belt with a little compound on it. This was a revelation to me, because i used to think it was largely cosmetic as well. you have to think that a logger being paid stumpage would take every opportunity available to them to increase the "up time" on their axe, because if it wasnt dumping chips, they weren't making money, and seeing how modern loggers treat their chainsaws and their chains, i can't imagine that many were chopping trees with a rough "puck ground" edge. the technology to get an actually sharp edge has been around for a long, long time now. hell, some of the best sharpening stones ever quarried were during the "good old days" and many of which have been lost or used up.

as far as the folks mentioning that shape is more important, that is very, very much the case. you can get a 90 degree angle to shave hair, but you cant chop with it. sharpening an axe takes 10 seconds. profiling it takes hours upon hours of filing or grinding.


for folks who arent staunch traditionalists, there is no need to be afraid of a little 120v-- a little common sense is all you need. with great power comes great responsibility, yada yada.

Old Axeman said:
idaho_crosscut---I spent a good part of my life working with an axe everyday for 2-3 months without returning to a location where electric power was available. And yes I know well about the mules stomping and blowdown. That is EXACTLY the stiuation where file and stone skills are crucial.
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yeah, and when you are in those situations, you bring a stone and a file, which i do. the last time i tried to plug in my grinder out in the woods, the mule nearly kicked my head off. turns out thats not an 'outlet' under the tail! everybody should know how to use a stone and a file to get an axe into fighting shape BEFORE they try and use a grinder. those skills are essential, no doubt. but i will say one last thing about the grinders... they do a damn, damn good job. there is a reason most competitive axemen have utilized this technology for quite a while now-- it isnt just an internet forum board opinion for them, the results speak for themselves during practice and competition.
 
Files and stones have their place. Nothing better in the field.. At home though, I reprofile, and sharpen my bits to shaving sharp very quickly, and very well with a 2x72" belt sander. I aim for a full convex from 20 to 25 degrees depending on the axe. I don't go for mirror finishes. I top out at 400 grit. I find that this grit allows for a slightly smoother release from the cut than a filed bit.





Haven't ruined a temper yet.
 
idaho_crosscut said:
as far as the mirror edge goes, it really, really does make a difference. once you remove the majority of the 'large' micro serrations you reduce the amount your bit is wanting to "tear" and get dull. For example, that axe above can chop all day and still shave at the end of the day with only being stropped with my leather belt with a little compound on it. This was a revelation to me, because i used to think it was largely cosmetic as well.
Click to expand...

I have to agree with Idaho_crosscut. The polished edge does last longer. They also provide less area for oxidation to get started. They release easier from the wood. It's a subtle difference but I notice it. A beartex or other non-woven polishing wheel does a great job fast after honing.
 
All good posts. Sharpening and Profiling distinction is very true. Somewhat on subject- I found a method to keep my puck from getting damaged and handy if I want to keep it with me. Repurposed a old beat up handcuff case, riveted a piece of nylon webbing to facilitate removal/ od paint for good measure. Holds it nice and snug with even a little room left over if I wanted to put something else in there. Maybe super glue and Band-Aids lol
ry%3D400

ry%3D400
 
curiosity:

Stirring in my father's tools today, I found this ax.

"São Romão"

Sharpening only one side, about 15 degrees. It seems a gentle convex.

The sharpness seems to be original. And the ax does not seem to be for special uses.


34MCL2s.jpg

gXXf9dK.jpg
 
Nicholson axe file (fine tooth side) for roughing out any nicks, followed by Lansky stones (220-600). Shaving sharp when I get it right.
 
Convex. A file as necessary and then Lansky dual grit puck stone
20z5wts.jpg
 
I'm new to axe tuning but have done a lot of rehabbing of bench chisels and plane blades, and sharpening of turning tools - so horsepower rather than handpower is the go.

Interested at this stage in what included angles for the main bevels are recommended. Leonard Lee suggests 20-25 degrees. Cook in The Ax Book recommends 30 degrees for the micro bevels and 15 degrees for the main bevels half an inch back from the edge.

So far it's been working OK to get bulk metal removal with a 4" angle grinder. Little sign of bluing as long as a clean disc and light touch are employed. Then I use a stationary 1" belt sander running through the grits and ending with a leather belt with CrOx honing compound.

I had assumed that a flat bevel would be best mechanically. Not so?
Convexing I've done once, with a 2" turner's rotary power sanding pad and ceramic discs.

A Kelly Dandenong, 4.5 lbs. First shot at refining an axe edge. Going with Cook will mean a lot of metal coming off the cheeks.

Kelly Dandenong by https://www.flickr.com/photos/30283858@N07/
 
idaho_crosscut said:
as far as the mirror edge goes, it really, really does make a difference. once you remove the majority of the 'large' micro serrations you reduce the amount your bit is wanting to "tear" and get dull. For example, that axe above can chop all day and still shave at the end of the day with only being stropped with my leather belt with a little compound on it. This was a revelation to me, because i used to think it was largely cosmetic as well. you have to think that a logger being paid stumpage would take every opportunity available to them to increase the "up time" on their axe, because if it wasnt dumping chips, they weren't making money, and seeing how modern loggers treat their chainsaws and their chains, i can't imagine that many were chopping trees with a rough "puck ground" edge. the technology to get an actually sharp edge has been around for a long, long time now. hell, some of the best sharpening stones ever quarried were during the "good old days" and many of which have been lost or used up.

as far as the folks mentioning that shape is more important, that is very, very much the case. you can get a 90 degree angle to shave hair, but you cant chop with it. sharpening an axe takes 10 seconds. profiling it takes hours upon hours of filing or grinding.


for folks who arent staunch traditionalists, there is no need to be afraid of a little 120v-- a little common sense is all you need. with great power comes great responsibility, yada yada.



yeah, and when you are in those situations, you bring a stone and a file, which i do. the last time i tried to plug in my grinder out in the woods, the mule nearly kicked my head off. turns out thats not an 'outlet' under the tail! everybody should know how to use a stone and a file to get an axe into fighting shape BEFORE they try and use a grinder. those skills are essential, no doubt. but i will say one last thing about the grinders... they do a damn, damn good job. there is a reason most competitive axemen have utilized this technology for quite a while now-- it isnt just an internet forum board opinion for them, the results speak for themselves during practice and competition.
Click to expand...


All valid and important points. I guess I should point out that I myself don't get carried away with the whole "smoke and mirror" finish (see what I did there) is based off the way I use my axes, which means a lot of contact with the ground, which means a lot of upkeep on the bit, which means a mirror finish means little to my situation.

Out in a different situation, where the bit never touches the ground, at least on a regular basis, I could see where this mirror finish phenomenon could have a possible case for warrant, but I would need to see a head and shoulders result above a file/puck edge vs all the things that goes into a mirror edge in order to validate the time, effort, money, etc to me. But again, that's just me.
 
Ziggy99 very good work!

Operator1975 Think the same...
In my case, the polishing of the wire is secondary.
As I used to cut more logs on the ground or splitter ... inevitably the blade ends up hitting the ground one time or another.
For more careful than I have, from 1000 hits 1 I error. then I take this factor into consideration. 20 degrees on each side, fine stone.

If I should count only hits would 10degrees on each side.

As you can see in my pictures first, this 20 degrees represent a 2-3mm in the face of the blade. then there is still a great power cut, but the sturdy wire to minor accidents.

As to the polishing face, makes a big difference in any case.
I recommend a test.
 
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Thanks Lucas :)

As for a mirror finish - I come from the world of cabinet tool and knife sharpening. With a synthetic abrasive it's easy enough to get a mirror look when what you have is a whole lot of even deepish scratches that are aligned and so reflect light in the same direction. But for the sake of edge life it's desirable to do down through the grits to as fine as you have the patience for.

The Japanese like the haze finish that a natural stone will produce. The 'mud' and the stone include a range of particle sizes and shapes with a resulting 'anarchic' scratch pattern. A worn belt of friable AlOx on a belt sander can sometimes mimic this.
 
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