how do you sharpen

pimpnugget

pimpnugget

Joined
Mar 10, 2008
Messages
886
hey guys and girls i have a edge pro apex snd it works awsome i just want to know how you guy on blade fourms sharpen
 
Everyone's got their own little method.

Some of the "popular" ones

Edge-pro

Sharpmaker

Lansky/Gatco

Freehand (on all sorts of "normal" and exotic stones..diamonds are a love or hate topic here)

Freehand (with automotive sandpaper or emery cloth...on a hard suface or a mousepad)

Machines (special wheels for grinder, and belt sanders)

...and at least a dozen different types of strops...and two dozen types of stropping compounds.

Welcome aboard!
 
I use a sharpmaker or freehand with automotive sandpaper. My "strop" is a soft leather trenchcoat belt. The stitching on it works wonders.
 
I use a freehand method using spyderco ceramic medium and fine stones to re-touch an edge. If i need to bevel an existing edge that is in good condition i will use a course DMT then move back to the ceramics to finish. If I cannot achieve a decent bevel (I can freehand providing there are no serious dips or incositencies in the blade) then the I break out the Edge Pro which is great for re-beveling and straightening up the blade edge, making the bevels very close to perfect.
 
I use DMT flat stones, DMT magna-guide, spyderco flat stones, profiles a eze-lap diamond oval and sharpmaker rods for ru-curve and serrated blades, HF 1x30 for heavy stock removal and several shaped leather strops with different levels of diamond paste for final finishing. I have a few other peices of sharpening equipment but these are the main things I use.
 
For reprofiling i use a whet stone, i use lansky crock sticks with a marker to find my angles of the blade, and i touch up/sharpen with sandpaper on a mousepad, then i go to a strop.
 
i mostly sharpen on a 1x30 belt sander down to 9 micron belts, with a power strop after.

apart from that, i sharpen with different grits on mousepad backing.

i also sharpen with a plain ole cheap pocketstone sometimes, or with a big benchstone for my scandis.

looking to get some diamond plates for my scandis so that i can take it do a finer grit without convexing on my film. i suppose i could just stick the abrasives to some glass, but i really want to play with some diamonds...
 
Freehand mostly on Japanese waterstones. Occasionally, on ceramic.

Touch ups with arkansas and butcher's steel
 
Freehand for me. I rarely let my knives go duller than what can be restored with stropping so I usually just strop. I use arkansas stones or sandpaper for a dull edge.
 
I sharpen on anything I can use with good results:

EdgePro Apex (tricked out)
American and Japanese waterstones (Norton, King, Shapton, Aoto, Sigma Power)
DMT diamond plates and Duo-Sharp
Spyderco Sharpmaker and Double-Stuff
Strop with leather, mdf, lapping film, or paper with diamond paste or goshknowswut
Dremel with a felt wheel (stock or aftermarket) and goshknowswut
1"x30" $40 belt sander (I missed the sale :( ) and all kinds of cloth, mylar, or leather belts coated all kinds of abrasives.
Oilstones (Crystolon, India, and Arkansas)

Have used a Lansky, too, but wasn't good at it.
 
Freehand.

Dry hone ( not even water).

Norton India or Crystalon coarse /fine combo stones.
Case AR Hard.

Emery paper.
I strop on my blue jeans, the back of a legal pad, or whatever cardboard is handy.
Most of the time, dry, no compound.
Semichrome by Happich if I do choose to use a compound.


While I prefer carbon , tool steels, I also sharpen ATS-34, D2, and S30V the same way.

No problems.
 
3wolves said:
Freehand for me. I rarely let my knives go duller than what can be restored with stropping so I usually just strop. I use arkansas stones or sandpaper for a dull edge.
Click to expand...

I do the same. most of my knives are either Carbon steel or 420HC. I strop them when they don't cut as good as they did when first sharpened, and it gets the edge back, but when they get dull, I usually very lightly run them over an arkansas oilstone about 5-10 times on each side and the edge is brought back! Stropping in my opinion works great and it prevents excessive wear on a knife. This is a techique going back many years when barbers and our grandfathers used to strop thier straight razors for shaving. This same technique works on my Leatherman Wave and will surely work on all kinds of other metals, even 154m or s30v
 
Most sharpening is done freehand on kitchen knives. I tend to work in quite steep angels and do not have much experience with hunting/outdoor knives.
600g wet paper on 2mm felt.
1000, 3000, 6000 Japanese wetstones.
Shalestone, wet.
Strop for maintenance.
 
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