How DO you use the tool that come with the Khukuri?

R

Rainbow4758

Joined
Nov 26, 2014
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Hi all, got a M43 that is simply a beast and need to know exactly how the Edge aligning tool is "SAFELY" used ! Thanks !
 
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I've been wondering whether one would regularly use the wider or the shorter side, myself, but I guess that's preference. For me, it seems that using the shorter side of the chakmak allows me to better "feel" the blade for any deformities.

I've hear theories about going from the cho towards the tip only, rather than both ways, but I'm not sure it makes any difference.

"Older" guys than me will chime in and explain better than "use swiping strikes along the edge, moving the chakmak perpendicularly on it, with medium pressure".
 
Title Fixed...;)

It really doesn't matter what side you use, although I'd gather that the short side might be harder if theyre differentially Ht'ed. They are used to knock back rolls and dings like a small hammer and then you burnish just the edge like you were using a steeling rod. Personally I prefer to go from cho to tip, but I guess it really doesn't matter as long as youre accomplishing the burnishing effect.
 
Rainbow4758 said:
Hi all, got a M43 that is simply a beast and need to know exactly how the Edge aligning tool is "SAFELY" used ! Thanks !
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Congrats to your purchase Rainbow! I have not used chakmak on any khukuri yet,but if i have to,i'd suggest to avoid using edges of chakmak as this may disrupt the edge formation,i'd rather option for running chakmak blade against the edge on the flat side-sideways,this i think would help to keep accuracy and keeping the angle of edge easier, than just running blunt edge against khukuri.......However,this method i would use as last option (when no other can be done),simply because of convex edge, that shall be sharpened rather with sandpaper supported by some sort of soft material like computer mouse pad or thick catalogue etc.in order to keep the convex form of edge intact as much as possible.I am only new here,there are lot of guys having a lot experience with khuks and their sharpening,surely they may have another well tested opinions how to use chakmak most effective way
 
Steeling (or burnishing) is the (sometimes microscopic) alignment of the edge that has been changed structurally by repeated impacts. It does not remove material, it simply "pushes it back in place". For this to be successful, the burnishing steel (chakmak) needs to be harder than the edge. This is sometimes hard to achieve, when the chakmak has been made by an apprentice at, let's say, RC 58 and your sweet spot (that naturally sees most of the work, hence abuse) is RC 60. (These numbers I chose pseudo-randomly.) This is done in order to maximize the life of an edge in-between sharpenings. A chakmak, used carefully, won't compromise your nice convex edge because you are not touching the whole bevel.

Sharpening, OTOH, removes metal. Chakmak doesn't sharpen, and for this you need indeed a system that keeps the convex edge in place. This is where a sandpaper backed by a flexible surface comes in place. I won't repeat the procedure, it has been detailed several times. I will post links for you, if you want, though.

I used the chakmak a little and sharpened a kukri once. Wasn't that bad, but I'm far from being 100% happy with the results. This will come with practice.

(Now if I could only learn to keep a convex edge on flat stones, rolling the blade as I go and all that.)
 
(Now if I could only learn to keep a convex edge on flat stones, rolling the blade as I go and all that.)
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That my friend makes for a beautiful blade. I can do it but it is a lot of work but sure is beautiful! Probably my favorite edge but the recurve of the Khukuri doesnt make it practical. At least with my experience.
 
ndoghouse said:
That my friend makes for a beautiful blade. I can do it but it is a lot of work but sure is beautiful! Probably my favorite edge but the recurve of the Khukuri doesnt make it practical.
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I'm struggling with the recurve as it is, no luck with the mousepad. Maybe with a setup like in the 1st post: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...quot-working-edges-quot?p=7922473#post7922473 - a raised, and not quite that wide of a surface.

That, or next step for me is to try the "eraser dressed in sandpaper" technique :D.
 
I have a secret sharpening technique called "never", but I do use that little knife that comes with it to keep an edge; a poor edge, but it is there
 
I find a 1inch dowel wrapped with 800 grit paper works the balls. The edges on kukris are very waves so a flat stone will only get the high spot. A dowel from cho to tip works best for me.
 
gurkha berserka said:
I find a 1inch dowel wrapped with 800 grit paper works the balls. The edges on kukris are very waves so a flat stone will only get the high spot. A dowel from cho to tip works best for me.
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Do you place a soft backing between the sandpaper and dowel? The more I think about this system, the more it appeals to me.
 
I use a small sanding block about 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 wrapped in felt.

I mostly use if for sanding gun stocks and grips and such but find that it works equally well for khukri's.

If I get serious I still use a mouse pad and a sheet of sandpaper and use that approach.

One definitely must stay aware of where your fingers are using the dowel and to some extent the sanding block as well.

I do keep various size dowels on hand again mostly for sanding but use them for small area's if you have like a bad spot that needs cleaning up a bit.
 
Interesting. I'm always looking for alternate versions, because:

1. The mousepad can be cumbersome sometimes, after prolonged use and keeping a constant angle may become a challenge;
2. I don't have the luxury of seeing the effects after each pass.
 
Moonw said:
Do you place a soft backing between the sandpaper and dowel? The more I think about this system, the more it appeals to me.
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Yes I either use an old thin rubber mouse pad or just wrap the tip with paper style masking tape. It only takes about ten rotations around the dowel to get a nice "soft" feel. Wrap the sandpaper around the masking tape. I find flat stones and even wooden stropping blocks far less effective than the dowel or mouse pad technique. A soft flat mouse pad will let the lateral bumps in the cutting edge hit the paper. Hard flat stones only sharpen the high spots
 
gurkha berserka said:
Yes I either use an old thin rubber mouse pad or just wrap the tip with paper style masking tape. It only takes about ten rotations around the dowel to get a nice "soft" feel. Wrap the sandpaper around the masking tape. I find flat stones and even wooden stropping blocks far less effective than the dowel or mouse pad technique. A soft flat mouse pad will let the lateral bumps in the cutting edge hit the paper. Hard flat stones only sharpen the high spots
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Excellent tips, thanks! One more question - when using the dowel, are you trying to replicate the pressure that the knife's weight would exercise over the mousepad, or are you going lighter?

I will deff. try and see if this, paired with a smaller vice, gets me a more consistent result.
 
Moonw said:
Excellent tips, thanks! One more question - when using the dowel, are you trying to replicate the pressure that the knife's weight would exercise over the mousepad, or are you going lighter?

I will deff. try and see if this, paired with a smaller vice, gets me a more consistent result.
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I use very light pressure, just enough to feel the "dragging" feeling. You can actually hear the paper make a sound when you have it right. Make sure you remove any burrs that might rip the paper
 
A round ceramic rod is hard like a chakma, so it can realign the edge. It also sharpens by removing just a tiny amount of metal. Another plus is a short one can fit in the chakma slot in your sheath.
 
I tried all sorts of different sharpening stones and techniques and jigs but I eventually realized unless you get it REALLY dull, just give it a few swipes on the bottom of a coffee mug. If a knife has a good edge you don't have to do much to keep it maintained. If it came with a crappy factory edge, do a really good time sharpening it once and then touch it up every so often.
 
This right here, same applys to knives and chainsaws. Best way to keep them sharp is don't let them get dull.

I have a small chainsaw but it'll cut circles around guys with big one's that don't touch them up once in awhile.

The ceramic rod Mr. Wallace mentioned is also a capital idea. I've used it on small knives but never thought to try it on a khuk. I won't be able to say that pretty soon quick as I get a chance to try it out.
 
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