How do you use your disc grinder?

Steve Randall

Steve Randall

Joined
Dec 3, 2009
Messages
741
I just bought a disc grinder with a 1 degree bevel disc. I flat grind all my blades, thinking this would help improve the flats. So far it's great, I forge all my knives, grind the bevels on the 2x72, then use the disc grinder to clean up the ups and downs, Also, to flatten out tangs on a full tang knife. Just curious if anyone uses these for all their grinding or just for cleaning up from the belt grinders? or whatever else you use it for..Steve
 
I use mine much the same as you. I find them especially good for thin kitchen knives and for flattening the tang to receive bolsters
 
i do all of my rough grinding on my disk and then use my belt for final finishing. since the disk puts in curved lines it only makes sense to do it that way :D.
 
I use the 6" disc on my 2X42 to shape knife handle sides and to remove scratches before hand sanding. Using a piece of cork gasket material from the auto parts store helps smooth out the bumps but can also erase a transition on blades.
 
I haven't tried it for rough grinding. so far I like to us the higher grits before hand sanding the only problem is the transition at the plunge lines is taking some extra work. the cork is a good idea I will give it a try. its all good stuff.....
 
I have a 12" reversible disc grinder that i do all my grinding on and finish by hand after h.t.

Bob
 
I spend the majority of my time on the disc. I finish the flats on the disc up to 500 grit sometimes 800. It's great for frame handles and smooth transitions from the guard to the handle.
 
I have finished chef knife grinds on one. I stock removal and take flats up to 1000 grit. I also take 416 guard material up to 1000 grit on the front side of the guard. You can also make sure your edges are 90 degrees easier than on a platten. I use it to flatten handle material which fits up on the tang.I pretty well use it for everything.:p
 
I only had a disc for 18 years and just made my 2x72 about a year ago now. I still do the majority of my grinding on the disc. I will rough in on the 2x72 and finish on the disc. But it can be done fully on the disc if you need to. Like I said did it for many years.
 
Any self made disc over here? Any ideas of how to? Any pictures? (will get a 3 HP motor next week :grumpy:).
What shell I pay attention to while building? Shell I make my own table (rest) or are there (web? ebay?) any ready to buy out there?
Thank you.
 
I made my discs. I turned the discs themselves and attached them to the motors I use. A little more info will be needed to tell if you can make/buy one yourself. I also made the table I use but I have a mill and used to have a large lathe. I really miss my lathe, had to sell it when I moved to Oregon. Anyhow I digress. Beaumont Metalworks has a disc fully set-up. Not cheap but really nice system. Then there's Robs Disc which is an interchangeable system that changes out the disc face. All this depends on how fro you are willing to go in the making of your own parts. Attaching your table is going to be the hard part. An off the shelf table may or may not adapt to your set-up. Also what type motor are you getting. What type frame, power and phase will be needed to give any accurate info. I will look for some pictures if not I will take some new ones.
 
A C Richards said:
I made my discs. I turned the discs themselves and attached them to the motors I use. A little more info will be needed to tell if you can make/buy one yourself. I also made the table I use but I have a mill and used to have a large lathe. I really miss my lathe, had to sell it when I moved to Oregon. Anyhow I digress. Beaumont Metalworks has a disc fully set-up. Not cheap but really nice system.

Then there's Robs Disc which is an interchangeable system that changes out the disc face.
Click to expand...


http://www.caffreyknives.net/RodsDisc.html


That's a really interesting system.
 
I usually hog off a bit on a 10" wheel (this is on folders) then go to the disc at 150 or 180 grit SC.
Both are variable reversing with beveled discs. One has printers blanket on the face and its dedicated
to doing a radius at the plunge. You can also do this by leaving the paper a hair big, barely over the edge of the
disc. The one I do most of my grinding on is just the steel disc. Ken.
102_0054_edited-1.jpg
[/IMG]
 
Yes I did, they're kind of a copy of the one Terry Davis uses. The cool thing is I usually have to only
loosen the left allen bolt and they're out of the way. Can get them dead square in seconds. The
mount is directley to the "C" face motor. The side arms are slotted for quick in&out.
Ken.
 
Those swing tables are a nice addition to the disc setup, Ken. Has anyone made a 100% fixed 90˚ table for their disc? I was thinking that a 90˚ table mounted on 2 tooling arms that slide and lock into KMG style housings to the left and the right of the disc could be a pretty wicked setup.
 
This might be a better pic to see what it looks like from the side. The ss plate on the table
can be taken off with that one allen bolt down thru it. Ken.
102_0058_edited-1.jpg
[/IMG]
 
Thank you for this picture, Ken. This is enormously helpful. The additional SS plate on your table is really smart. The whole setup is great.

Do you feel that you would benefit much from Rod's interchangeable disc setup? I'm trying to decide between that and the Beaumont disc right now... the back of the Beaumont disc would need to be recessed like yours to work for slipjoints.
 
Matt Browning said:
Thank you for this picture, Ken. This is enormously helpful. The additional SS plate on your table is really smart. The whole setup is great.

Do you feel that you would benefit much from Rod's interchangeable disc setup?
Matt for myself no, If I even think its beginning to get dull (abrasive) it goes in the trash. The sheets are cheap
enough that I change them out pretty fast. Even 2ea 180, 2ea 320, 2ea 400 @ 40-50 cents a sheet is pretty
reasonable when we are now down to hand finishing in minutes. I suppose if I were flattening guards etc.
Ken.
Click to expand...
 
You make a good point about the affordability of the paper. I'd be using the setup for slipjoints as well, no guards etc. Did you fabricate your disc? It looks like steel from the picture...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top