What is this "grind" of which you speak? I forge 'em in.

Forging tapers kind of comes naturally to the process, especially if you are forging as closely as you can to your final product. Grinding takes more effort to get the same results. Of course, grinding has plenty of advantages over forging and vice versa. It's all balance.
Typically on my bush swords, the widest part of the blade is also the thickest. When I forge my preform, that area stays closest to the original bar stock, then I forge my bevel, which is a full flat bevel. At that thickest, widest part, or just back of it, is the chopping sweet spot. You can keep the overall weight pretty low like that while still making a powerful chopper. Don't know how it would match up in a competition blade, but I know how it does on mesquite and oak.
I know the main topic is alloy choice, but making blades is kind of a total package thing. Good alloy with bad geometry or bad heat treatment will not equal a good blade, and so forth.