How does everyone do templates?

Joined
Feb 10, 2014
Messages
189
Hey guys. Im just wondering how people do their templates. I have tried making one out of plywood and it just kind of chips and breaks up as it gets kicked around. I have also seen people tape or glue their paper templates onto their steel. All of my paper drawings have been saved onto my computer so I could easily print a template off when I need to. Just wondering how people do it so I can hear some other ideas and choose how to do it for myself when the time comes to actually need templates.
 
Well, I have scads of sheet metal all over the place, so that's what I use. Usually 300 series stainless.
 
1/4" plexiglass or I print off a template and glue it to the steel.
 
I use Super 77 spray adhesive to glue my printed design onto 1/4" thick Masonite hardboard. It cuts and sands easily and is durable.

 
3/16" white plexi for stock removal and folders, aluminum or steel sheet for forged knives so I can check the work against it hot.
I design knives often on the computer and will drag a bunch of duplicates onto the same sheet if size allows- then I can cut the parts out separately, which is handy for knives with bolsters or for folding knives with several parts. I spray glue the cut out patterns onto plexi sheet, then profile to the pattern.
 
I use Adobe illustrator. I print off the pattern cut it out and spray adhesive it on to the blank. I like this method because I can “tweak” the blade shape, or handle, move pins around or add lanyard holes in a matter of seconds. You can also keep sheath patterns with the knife pattern. There is a bit of a learning curve but it’s well worth the effort.
 
Big respect to Murray Carter for the inspiration. I got this idea fro his new book, 101 Knife Designs which I highly recommend.


I use paper then hardened steel.

Make a template... whatever material doesn't matter. I like to draw in CAD and print variations out until I am happy. I cut out my paper template, place it on my steel then use Dykem to show the profile. I grind close to my lines then eye the rest from a print out or drawing.

Make a batch of knives from that template... they will vary a bit (or vary them on purpose) and keep the best profile.

Scribe a new batch from that best profiled steel one you kept. After that repeat the process, keep the very best one and scribe from that. Repeat...

You may reach a point when you wind up keeping the same one, that's the one!



Templates...



 
Last edited:
I also use Adobe Illustrator and glue it to the blank but i typically use superglue. It seems to hold up better to dunking while grinding.
 
Big respect to Murray Carter for the inspiration. I got this idea fro his new book, 101 Knife Designs which I highly recommend.


I use paper then hardened steel.

Make a template... whatever material doesn't matter. I like to draw in CAD and print variations out until I am happy. I cut out my paper template, place it on my steel then use Dykem to show the profile. I grind close to my lines then eye the rest from a print out or drawing.

Make a batch of knives from that template... they will vary a bit (or vary them on purpose) and keep the best profile.

Scribe a new batch from that best profiled steel one you kept. After that repeat the process, keep the very best one and scribe from that. Repeat...

You may reach a point when you wind up keeping the same one, that's the one!

Good grief that is a lot. So in stark contrast to that I....draw a design freehand with a pencil and erase parts I do not like until I like all the parts. I then cut the design out with regular old scissors and place it on a cheap piece of basswood and draw the profile on the basswood. I then cut out the profile on the basswood and that's it. A basswood template.

Admittedly, basswood is pretty flimsy, but quick and easy and for template work which seems okay for a recreational maker like me.
 
^ Sounds good to me!

The process I described is somewhat new to me as far as the batches go but I feel I am refining lines quickly.

I never used a lot of templates until I started doing kitchen knives, the lines on them have to be dead on in every way. My typical hunter patterns are ground from memory...
 
I have used a product called IronPly made by Patriot Timber. to make templates. I usually get it at Lowe's or Home Depot. It is cheap and durable.
 
I draw it out on paper. Take that pattern and trace it out on hardboard. Cut out the hardboard and use that as a template. If while grinding I change the pattern to something I like more while creating the profile I then take the blank and trace the final outcome out on plastic sign material I get at Lowes.

The plastic sign material is easy to use and take up very little space.
 
I'm still pretty new to knifemaking but, I have made and marketed many fabricated steel components for motorcycles and hot rods for years. My knifemaking templates are done the same as the many templates I've been making for 25+ years. I print it out from Adobe Illustrator, spray glue to 16ga sheet steel and cut it out. I drill 1/16" holes in the templates for center punching drilled holes. I engrave all my templates with what it is and date created.

Bob
 
I'm surprised by how many people use adobe illustrator and cad programs. I have free student uses of inventor and revit architecture. Trial uses of adobe illustrator and photoshop. I wish I had the money for illustrator.
 
I find basswood to be hard to cut (with a saw) compared to something like poplar. Not hard at all, mind, but harder. :)

I like the idea of using micarta, but that could get expensive. I think the homemade micarta is ideal for tools, and probably for templates. Cheap too, just takes a few minutes to press and overnight to cure. I use it for sanding blocks and what not, and it's great. Denim works best. Tough and hard, plus waterproof with the right resin.
 
I find basswood to be hard to cut (with a saw) compared to something like poplar. Not hard at all, mind, but harder. :)

I like the idea of using micarta, but that could get expensive. I think the homemade micarta is ideal for tools, and probably for templates. Cheap too, just takes a few minutes to press and overnight to cure. I use it for sanding blocks and what not, and it's great. Denim works best. Tough and hard, plus waterproof with the right resin.

Good point about cutting basswood. I use a knife to cut out a rectangle around the blade profile. Then I sand it to shape. It sands so easily, care needs to be taken to not oversand. Honestly, I have zero attachment to basswood, but I have a store nearby that sells is cheap so...cheap is good!
 
That's funny, I feel like I have a special bond with basswood. Don't read too far into that. :p I really like how it carves, and even how it looks. I'm a sucker for any light colored wood. Especially if it carves well, which bass certainly does. I've considered making scales with it, but everyone besides me (it seems) finds it boring. :(

:)

Sorry, I got distracted.
 
Back
Top