How does my liner lock materials list look?

D

Da Thurmanator

Joined
Mar 21, 2013
Messages
102
Awhile back I asked about making a shopping list for making a liner lock. I asked too many questions and almost everybody said that I need to just figure it out myself. After some research I put together an order. I was wondering if somebody could look it over and tell me if it looks good. I would just like some confirmation that I'm on the right track before I place the order.

HP625 1/4" Stainless Pivot Pin 3/16" body
$2.95

#F7A Hardened Stainless Stop Pin 1/8 x 3/8"
$0.95

#F28 Stainless Steel Detent Balls 1/16"
$2.00

#F44 Phrous Bronze Folder Bushing 3/16 x 0.005 x 1/2"
$2.50

TI050 Titanium Sheet 5 x 10 x .050"
$29.95

#GJ338 Orange G-10 Scales 1/8 x 1-1/2 x 10"
$3.95

HA321 Tap Wrench
$8.95

HA1102 0-80 Plug Tap
$5.95

#F25A Stainless Torx Screw Flathead---package 12 0-80 .225" T5
$2.95

Here is the full order if you want to look at more details about each part.
https://www.knifemaking.com/ShoppingCart.asp?

Here is my original post.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...eed-some-help-getting-started-making-folders?

Thank you!
 
Well, the plug tap should be one that is tapered and made to go all the way through metal. If you try to use a tap wrench you may need a dozen or more taps to get those holes done. You can buy a tap holder with a shaft on the end to fit into your drill press. It is only used for alignment . You turn the body holding the tap by hand. I don't know what that bushing is. It's size as you have it isn't correct, I believe. However you will need two .015 or four .010 phosphor bronze washers with a 3/16" inside diameter hole. Will you be using some G10 for the back bar? Here are some simple dimensions for you. If the blade is .110 thick then the back bar has to be .110 plus the thickness of the washers used say if the .20 washers are used on each side 2 X .020 =.40 = .150 .010 washers will not be thick enough to allow for clearance of the detent ball as it runs along side of the blade. Your pivot length should be .150 plus the finished thickness of the titanium liners which may be .050 each when you start but possibly a bit thinner when you do assembly. You did not include your drill bit sizes, which for the 0 X 80 screws should be No.55 for the tap and 1/16 for clearance. As well you will need a 1/4"counter sink to do the holes going from one scale to the other with the back bar in between. Is this to be your first knife? Good doin's Mr. !!! Frank
 
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Da Thurmanator said:
Awhile back I asked about making a shopping list for making a liner lock. I asked too many questions and almost everybody said that I need to just figure it out myself. After some research I put together an order. I was wondering if somebody could look it over and tell me if it looks good. I would just like some confirmation that I'm on the right track before I place the order.

HP625 1/4" Stainless Pivot Pin 3/16" body
$2.95

#F7A Hardened Stainless Stop Pin 1/8 x 3/8"
$0.95

#F28 Stainless Steel Detent Balls 1/16"
$2.00

#F44 Phosphorous Bronze Folder Bushing 3/16 x 0.005 x 1/2"
$2.50

TI050 Titanium Sheet 5 x 10 x .050"
$29.95

#GJ338 Orange G-10 Scales 1/8 x 1-1/2 x 10"
$3.95

HA321 Tap Wrench
$8.95

HA1102 0-80 Plug Tap
$5.95

#F25A Stainless Torx Screw Flathead---package 12 0-80 .225" T5
$2.95

Here is the full order if you want to look at more details about each part.
https://www.knifemaking.com/ShoppingCart.asp?

Here is my original post.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...eed-some-help-getting-started-making-folders?

Thank you!
Click to expand...

Frank Niro said:
Well, the plug tap should be one that is tapered and made to go all the way through metal. If you try to use a tap wrench you may need a dozen or more taps to get those holes done. You can buy a tap holder with a shaft on the end to fit into your drill press. It is only used for alignment . You turn the body holding the tap by hand. I don't know what that bushing is. It's size as you have it isn't correct, I believe. However you will need two .015 or four .010 phosphor bronze washers with a 3/16" inside diameter hole. Will you be using some G10 for the back bar? Here are some simple dimensions for you. If the blade is .110 thick then the back bar has to be .110 plus the thickness of the washers used say if the .20 washers are used on each side 2 X .020 =.40 = .150 .010 washers will not be thick enough to allow for clearance of the detent ball as it runs along side of the blade. Your pivot length should be .150 plus the finished thickness of the titanium liners which may be .050 each when you start but possibly a bit thinner when you do assembly. You did not include your drill bit sizes, which for the 0 X 80 screws should be No.55 for the tap and 1/16 for clearance. As well you will need a 1/4"counter sink to do the holes going from one scale to the other with the back bar in between. Is this to be your first knife? Good doin's Mr. !!! Frank
Click to expand...

Did you read the Terzuola book ?

Let's see your drawings


We cannot view your shopping cart because we are not logged into your account there.


Frank's right, you want a taper, or spiral point tap.
Get a couple

0-80 is REALLY small
Have a look at your design, I'll bet you can go up to #2-56 with no problems, maybe even to the #4
That change alone will make things much easier for you.

Look at the drill sizes and other cutting tools you may need such as reamers.

What size drill will you need to hold the detent ball ?
What size drill will you use for the taped holes ?


Your screws list a T5 torx head.
Whatever size screw you use, be sure you have good drivers for them.
Try Wiha flag type drivers.


Those screws are only long enough to go halfway through the knife.
does that mean you are using threaded standoff spacers ?
Is that what the tap is for?
I"d use a metal, not a G10 threaded spacer
As Frank points out, the thickness of that spacer has to match the components


How are you measuring your parts ?
 
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I know it was said already, but unless you REALLY need 0-80's go for a bigger size.

Those taps will break in Titanium if you look at them wrong.
Doubly so if you're hand tapping.

If you have to use them, they have upper and lower limits on tap drill sizes.
3/64 or a #56 is in the middle of these limits.
You can actually drill a little bigger than that and you'll have an easier time when you go to tap because you're removing less material with the tap.
 
I mainly use 0X80 taps with No 55 holes in titanium. I also use a tap holder you turn by hand but has a shaft that fits into a drill press for alignment. It has been a very long time since I've broken a tap. I have worn out a few however. Frank
 
Wow, I am very glad that I asked you guys before I ordered all that! Looks like I overlooked a lot of details. I guess I'm too anxious to get it ordered so I can start making!
I didn't know that 0-80 was so small. I've never tapped anything before so I'm not familiar with the sizes.
What is a good size screw for a beginner to use? And what drill bit, reamer, countersink, and tap goes with it? The sizes are kind of confusing to me. If one of you is willing to just tell me what to get I would really appreciate it. Most of the tutorials that I have looked at assume that you know what to use.

Frank Niro: Yes, I was planning on using G-10 for the back bar. This will be my first folder but I have made a couple fixed blades. Will I need a tap holder if I get larger taps?

12345678910: I haven't read the Terzuola book yet but I was thinking about picking up a copy. I haven't drawn out my design yet. I was hoping to figure out my design once I have the materials in hand. Is that ok? I have a caliper and a micrometer for measuring.
 
Da Thurmanator said:
Wow, I am very glad that I asked you guys before I ordered all that! Looks like I overlooked a lot of details. I guess I'm too anxious to get it ordered so I can start making!
I didn't know that 0-80 was so small. I've never tapped anything before so I'm not familiar with the sizes.
What is a good size screw for a beginner to use? And what drill bit, reamer, countersink, and tap goes with it? The sizes are kind of confusing to me. If one of you is willing to just tell me what to get I would really appreciate it. Most of the tutorials that I have looked at assume that you know what to use.

Frank Niro: Yes, I was planning on using G-10 for the back bar. This will be my first folder but I have made a couple fixed blades. Will I need a tap holder if I get larger taps?

12345678910: I haven't read the Terzuola book yet but I was thinking about picking up a copy. I haven't drawn out my design yet. I was hoping to figure out my design once I have the materials in hand. Is that ok? I have a caliper and a micrometer for measuring.
Click to expand...

That's good you have a caliper.
Use it in working out your design.


There are a lot of things you need to learn, and then figure out in your design what you're going to do and how.
We can't "just tell you" everything.



Used copies of that book are running $170 to $2,500 on Amazon
Buy one if you can.

Download the book
Then read it 10x times

I think 95 % of your questions are answered in there.


Shipping is a killer, so I hate having to pay for shipping twice on something I forgot
Have it all figured out before you jump on buying stuff.
 
12345678910 said:
That's good you have a caliper.
Use it in working out your design.


There are a lot of things you need to learn, and then figure out in your design what you're going to do and how.
We can't "just tell you" everything.



Used copies of that book are running $170 to $2,500 on Amazon
Buy one if you can.

Download the book
Then read it 10x times

I think 95 % of your questions are answered in there.


Shipping is a killer, so I hate having to pay for shipping twice on something I forgot
Have it all figured out before you jump on buying stuff.
Click to expand...

I'm going to look into dowloading that book for sure! Why is it so expensive???

When I said "just tell me" I was just talking about screws. I realize that I need to figure out 90% of it on my own so I can learn but the drill/tap/screws/reamer I don't want to mess up. I hate paying for shipping twice too and I feel like I could easily order the wrong size of one of them. I don't really have much to go by since I don't know how the size numbers relate to the actual measurement. I just don't understand the way the sizes relate to each other right now. I'm sure it will all be clear soon and then I'll feel stupid for making a big deal about it. :P

Thank you for being patient with me! I know I've got a LOT to learn.
 
There is a great work in progress by an Australian member in this forum. Look for it until you find it. I'm lost at sending the information by way of the url or however. Sorry about that
Okay, so as I make liner locks you will need 0 X 80 screws between the liners. That means you will need you No.55 drill bits and 1/16 drill bits. You can use 2 X 56 screws on the bolsters and scales. These will require No 50 and No 43 drill bits. If you use a 3/16" pivot, you will need a No 13 drill bit not a 3/16 drill bit and a 3/16 reamer. I'm giving you this because you asked, but how are you going to maintain the very fine tollerances required or it just will be a bound up mess. Search out that WIP. You will soon see what I mean. Frank
 
Frank Niro said:
There is a great work in progress by an Australian member in this forum. Look for it until you find it. I'm lost at sending the information by way of the url or however. Sorry about that
Okay, so as I make liner locks you will need 0 X 80 screws between the liners. That means you will need you No.55 drill bits and 1/16 drill bits. You can use 2 X 56 screws on the bolsters and scales. These will require No 50 and No 43 drill bits. If you use a 3/16" pivot, you will need a No 13 drill bit not a 3/16 drill bit and a 3/16 reamer. I'm giving you this because you asked, but how are you going to maintain the very fine tollerances required or it just will be a bound up mess. Search out that WIP. You will soon see what I mean. Frank
Click to expand...

I haven't been able to find that work in progress but I haven't been able to search for very long though. I'm sure I'll find it with a little more time. I did find this one again in my search
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1028982-Build-a-linerlock?highlight=Wip+liner+lock . It seems to be a really good tutorial.
Thank you very much for the screws/tap and drill info.
Would it be ok to use the 2x56 screws for between the liners also?

Leifjl: Thank you!
 
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