How does the S30V heat treat in the Spyderco Para 2 compare to other S30V

[lambertiana]

I haven't compared a PM2, but my original PM held up roughly equal to my Buck Vantage Pro in edgeholding comparisons. Both were noticeably better than my BM Mini Ritter in S30V. Last place went to my small Sebenza (which I then sent to Paul Bos to improve the heat treat).

 

[Wowbagger]

Honestly imho, sharpening skills trumps concern for blade steel nowadays when dealing with reputable companies like Spyderco. Depending on the media you cut most often even the angle of your edge can make a big difference .

Sounds like something I would have wrote.
I hope you are right . . .
I am still trying to make friends with my S110V.
One of my tests is cutting my finger nails. When the edge is right it cuts longish curls and easily without tearing. Just today my Manix with S110V went back in my pocket for this week. I didn't use it today so I was fooling around with it on my fingernails . . . even though it is fairly hair whittling it just sucked cutting my fingernails. If I grab the Griptillian in M390 it is much better . . . hahaha and I have never sharpened the blade other than a very light stropping on a hand held sharp maker ultra fine rod.
But
I know if I grab my Dragonfly in ZDP-189 it will cut longish curls effortlessly and make me grin.
Geometry I suppose though it and the Manix were sharpened on the Edge Pro and aren't all that different really.

Maybe the Dragon is thinner behind the edge. I need to compare them.

 

[Wowbagger]

Jason,

Thank you very much for taking the time to answer.
That agrees with and clarifies what others are telling me. Can be good or not so great even in the same brand and model of knife. Chipping is common, etc.

Chipping . . .
kind of tells why it performed so well in the Ankerson rope cutting in the toothy section . . . the extra hard S30V chipped all to heck and turned into a dag gone SAW !
I mean seriously how else can it be cutting way up there on the list with the big dogs like S90V even S110 V . . . seriously ?! . . . yup there it is !

Crazy talk . . . and yet ZDP-189 is way down there hanging out on the wrong side of the tracks with the likes of white steel and BD1N.

The only HT of S30V that I've seen better than Paul Bos was by Shirogorov. After that I would say Spyderco, benchmade then Kershaw/ZT. Personally, I think BM and Kershaw have horrible HT of S30V, very soft and with performance not much better than AUS-8.

That said, I find S30V to be the most inconsistent steel of them all. Even from the same maker I see noticeable differences from knife to knife. I know even my Spydercos with this steel are not exactly solid performers, constant micro chipping and an unbalanced level of tough to sharpen followed by underwhelming performance. Even with that I still consider spyderco S30V better than most available.

 

[Herlock]

Hi. I said it somewhere before but I also have to report a very minor chipping on the blade of my PM2. It was brand new and I was “testing” it a bit , whittling a black locust wood. I was surprised but not really worried . It happened to me several years ago to chip in a more serious way my Fallkniven A1. The chipping I experienced on my PM2 was really minor and, once restored with a Lansky fine diamond hone and good stropping with compound, it “healed” perfectly and I never experienced that anymore (same as for the A1 which I sent for a professional re-sharpening, at that time). I also - probably - have put a toothier edge on it, maybe slightly more obtuse, I’m a “dilettante” sharpener . I recently took my PM2 on the mountains and used it quite much without sparing her any hiking task and she performed flawlessly. A good knife, just mind the tip!

The only other blade I have in S30V is the BM Mini Rukus. I use it in similar way and never experienced chipping but the different geometry and edge thickness might also play a role here (I am far from being an expert, so it’s just a guess from my side ). As a curiosity, the SG Spider Monkey I have (in S35VN), with a thickness at the edge more comparable to PM2, never had any issue and I use it regularly in similar tasks.

 

[Wowbagger]

Lambertiana,

Last place went to my small Sebenza (which I then sent to Paul Bos to improve the heat treat).

That and the other info is enlightening. Thanks !

On the Sebenza (which obviously is now being made in S35 and harder) did your older Sebenza chip much ? If at all ?
I originally figured the Sebenzas were tempered softer so they would be sharpenable for more people. Maybe it was to prevent chipping . . . and or . . .

That does it . . . I'm ordering two Phil Wilson blades. When they come I'll cut one to fit into a pair of sculpted Ti scales with an axis lock and the other one I'll cut to fit into a Sebenza.

Ahhhhhhh to dream and have dreams come true . . .

 

[Wowbagger]

The chipping I experienced on my PM2 was really minor and, once restored with a Lansky fine diamond hone and good stropping with compound, it . . ... never experienced that anymore (same as for the A1 . . . recently took my PM2 on the mountains and used it quite much without sparing her any hiking task and she performed flawlessly. A good knife, just mind the tip!

Sounds like there might be something to the "factory belt sharpening can foul up the steel at the edge and once taken off on a stone it is good to go " theory.

I never quite bought that . . . I figured if anything the steel would get further annealed and so would be softer and less prone to chipping rather than more prone to chipping.

PS: Oh man don't start a fire here in Colorado without a cleared "fire pit" . . . you will burn down half the state as dry as everything is. A couple southern brothers tried that here and they wound up in deep legal doo doo. . . . once they got the forest, and the houses and stuff to stop burning up around them.

 

[BellaBlades]

Chippy but cuts like a SOB.

Ive done alot of sharpening on spyderco knives. The worst being my buddys p kal last year. Chunks just kept chipping out. Once I got it to a finer grit. Like 1k. The problem was not as bad.

All that said. The toothy edge that these spydys get will cut like the dickens. But it is still annoying.

In comparison the Vantage pro I purchased for another fella I know had some, but far less chipping issues. The steel just seemed more uniform through out. Older CRK knives. 58-59. Never really noticed chipping if any at all when I had serviced and tested them. Oh and another if I recall is Grayman. If those DUA were S30V like I remember. They were nice as well.
And after all that my favorite is spyderco for S30v. I thoroughly enjoy the toothy edge. And when refined it does just fine in my book.


I for one am super happy with the newer s35vn from multiple makers. The steel is super uniform when sharpening and is just a pleasure to maintain. Reminds me alot of CPM 154. And no matter what I cut with the stuff. I never see a hint of staining.

 

[likota]

My PM2 and Sage 1 are excellent. Boker did a really good job on the Nessmi, too.
However, the edge retention on my Kershaw Blur and Leatherman Charge tti is quite bad.

 

[Humint]

I have mentioned this before, but I think Spyderco's HT of s30v is THE BEST in the business. If I could pick just 1 edc steel it would be Spydercos s30v (or even s35vn) steel. They just do it right. Much like Cold Steel's HT of CTS-XHP (now hot damn they did that one right as well).

 

[archieblue]

I seriously appreciate S30V. I've had practically countless knives in this steel. I've never had a single issue. Honestly, my findings have been such a polar opposite of a few that I find the accounts of chipping horror stories almost laughable. As long as a person is 1/2 way decent at sharpening, pays attention, and learns from trial and error there is no better "Jack of all trades" steel than S30V (except S35VN). I can easily see where a person (who is better than 1/2 way good at sharpening) would prefer something like CPM 20CV... But a little slip and a bang against something harder and that person just might be inclined to carry something a tad easier to maintain/repair next time their in a similar situation.
That said, sure there are differences between maker's knives. I don't even really try to compare them and I can tell some difference. In my opinion the differences are not appreciable. Where they give, they take elsewhere and where they take, they give elsewhere. The polar opposites would be a 2008 CRK Sebenza and a 2008 Strider SnG both in S30V. The Sebby will dull slightly quicker than the SnG, but when that occasional slip comes around the Seb will roll and the SnG will chip. I love both knives for what they are, but both knives are intended to be "do-all" folders. The Sebenza is a better do-all knife. Sebenzas are they only fancy pants knives I have in my rotation anymore.
Then there is Spyderco. Oh Spyderco. I have only had Golden S30V & S35VN Spydies and they are absolutely top notch. IMO knife money can't be better spent.

 

[Wowbagger]

Humint,

Much like Cold Steel's HT of CTS-XHP (now hot damn they did that one right as well).

AGREED !
Good stuff. I've been carving ragged burs off mild steel parts with it.
! ! ! !
Works fine; doesn't chip or break down. Wide sharpening angle but still . . . I'm impressed.
Sounds like I will enjoy the Para 2 in S30V

 

[Wowbagger]

archieblue,

The polar opposites would be a 2008 CRK Sebenza and a 2008 Strider SnG both in S30V. The Sebby will dull slightly quicker than the SnG, but when that occasional slip comes around the Seb will roll and the SnG will chip. I love both knives for what they are,

Then there is Spyderco. Oh Spyderco. I have only had Golden S30V & S35VN Spydies and they are absolutely top notch. IMO knife money can't be better spent.

This is going to be really interesting to see how mine turns out.
I didn't think I could have this much fun with S30V and I haven't even got any yet.
Just the anticipation . . .