How does your Edgepro work?

A

armilite

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Hi Guys,

Just wanted to take a little poll. The people here that own an Apex or the pro model. Just exactly how do you think they work? Honest opinions only Please.

Lets say on a scale of 1 to 10 ok.

I've had one for about three months now and still can't get it to work anything like you guys say it does!!!

You name it and I've tryed it with this machine. Even cleaned stones with silicon carbide. Also have made numerous calls to Ben, who has tryed to help.

All I've got to say is that it does'nt work as well as some of you guys say, at least not for me.

No slander against Ben Dale intended.

Answers to this post would be appreciated,
armilite.
 
Pro Model owned. I've used Apex

Scale of 1 to 10 Pro model is 100. The Apex about 90. Both surpass the manufacturers claims for me. BIG TIME surpass.

Not knowing what your issues are I can't offer advice. Check out the tips Pages at 1SharpKnife. Video of EP is available on the MainPage
 
I've got the Apex, and have nothing but good things to say.
10/10 from me.
Did you watch the DVD that came with the package?
Be sure to use a sharpie on the edge so that you know you're at the right angle.

If I should give one tip, it would be to not apply too much force on the lever while sharpening.
I work it with one grit until I get a burr.
Once I get a burr on one side, I change side to get a burr on the other side.
I sharpen to a burr on that side, and then change sides again, but this time I only sharpen very lightly to remove the burr.
Once I've gotten a burr on both sides, and removed it, I change to a finer grit.
Do not change to a finer grit without achieving a burr on both sides.
Repeat same procedure for finer grits.

EDSIT: OK I'v been drinking. Bear with me, the grammar may be off and the explanation may also be a litt le off
 
I have to give mine a 9 out of 10. I do get good, controlled, and repeatable results with it. I really like it. I have the Apex model, and I think I should have gotten the pro. Stability could be a little better, and I would like a little more stroke with longer stones. I would suggest telling us what state you live in, and I bet there is somebody not too far from you that would be willing to help you out.
 
I'll give my Apex a 9 also. I need more practice, but it has worked extremely well so far. It is better than anything else I've tried so far. -Matt-
 
10 for 10 for me. I bought the Apex. I think it's the single best investment in knives that I've EVER made. I like it so much that I would like to help you so that you will like it, too. How's that for loyalty?

Why don't you post specific problems here, no problems with me. Between all the Edgepro users, maybe someone has a technique or perspective that can help you?

My only regret is not having the pro. If you have the pro, I'll buy it from you.
 
The edgepro works by keeping a reciprocating mini stone in perfect angle to the edge, Maybe make a vdeo of you sharpening your stone? Have someone come over. Only thing I can possibly imagine is that either you aren't producing a burr and never getting and edge, you aren't keeping the blade well centered and secure, or you are using either too much or too little pressure, I can only imagine the first.

I have been thinking about getting an edgepro, maybe if you want to sell it, sodak may have dibs but maybe since he has one :wink:. I would rather you get it working though.
 
Hi Again,

Somebody wanted to know what state I live in and offered help in showing me the right way to use this thing. I live in Central N.Y. State, Utica area. Anybody around here or in the state own one that might want to give me a hands on demo?

Please respond if you are willing.
Thanks,
armilite
 
Your problem is most likely one of two issues.

1. You may be stopping before you have finished with each grit. Remember you need to be able to turn the burr with a light swipe of the stone in each direction. If you can't do that, then you aren't finished with that stone.

2. Your angle may not be the same on the sharpener as it is on blade. You may be grinding above the edge but not grinding the edge itself. My advice is to set the unit at tone of the colored marks and then grind a new bevel with the coarse stone. Then you can simply set the sharpener to this mark in the future and be sure that the angles are the same.

I can't think of any other issue that might cause your problem. I can tell you that the Edge Pro is capable of making a blade as sharp as it can be.
 
I found it didn't work all that well either. For me, it's faster to freehand. In either instance you have to hold the blade steady to the stone, it's just an inversion-blade flat (as you can get it on the table) and stone held at an angle and moved. With freehanding, I don't have any setup or breakdown time, just need a little control.
 
The best advice I can give is to slow down and take your time. If the sharpening is not going well, walk away for a half hour then come back and try again.
 
I would rate my Edge Pro Pro at 10 out of 10. However, it's easy to see where new users have trouble — or think they do — since most knives have relatively uneven bevels. When you first use the Edge Pro on a knife, you have the most steel to remove, and it can take much longer than you think to get all the way to the edge so that a burr forms. I have found that using a 6" Starrett rule to record the position of the guide block to the nearest 1/32nd of an inch helps, as does keeping a careful listing of the exact angle used for each of your knives. It is also extremely useful to have a good 10X loupe and a bright desk lamp handy. When I was starting with the Edge Pro, I would examine the length of the edge each time I flipped the blade, so that I could see exactly what was happening. Mostly, I could see that I hadn't reach the actual cutting edge, and so knew to keep going until I did. Still, if you can find anyone in the Utica area willing to spend a little time with you, there's nothing like learning from an experienced hand.
 
cbcbell said:
I would rate my Edge Pro Pro at 10 out of 10. However, it's easy to see where new users have trouble — or think they do — since most knives have relatively uneven bevels. When you first use the Edge Pro on a knife, you have the most steel to remove, and it can take much longer than you think to get all the way to the edge so that a burr forms. I have found that using a 6" Starrett rule to record the position of the guide block to the nearest 1/32nd of an inch helps, as does keeping a careful listing of the exact angle used for each of your knives. It is also extremely useful to have a good 10X loupe and a bright desk lamp handy. When I was starting with the Edge Pro, I would examine the length of the edge each time I flipped the blade, so that I could see exactly what was happening. Mostly, I could see that I hadn't reach the actual cutting edge, and so knew to keep going until I did. Still, if you can find anyone in the Utica area willing to spend a little time with you, there's nothing like learning from an experienced hand.
Click to expand...

Very ,very good advise ........and 10 out of 10 for me.
 
Well, Nosmo, I can hardly take credit for these refinements since nearly all of them came from you, The Tourist or QuietOne. You guys are the real Edge Pro pros! Ben Dale certainly did his homework in designing the Edge Pros, but there is still a very real learning curve to using and mastering it.
_____
- Christopher
www.cbcampbell.com
 
I have an apex and I really only use it to set main bevels on knives. I then set a microbevel with benchstones. The reason I do this is because I can't seem to get as sharp of an edge using the edgepro then i can with benchstones. I'm not really sure why either. For those of you who put microbevels on knives with the edgepro what is the process?
 
I'm by no means an EdgePro - Pro.... Well I get paid for using it so under the definition of a professional gets paid maybe I am. But there are a great many people better than I am, with more knowledge, and better techniques.

One thing I do see in teaching people to use the EP is that their hold is better with one hand than the other and their stroke with stone is the reverse.

When one first starts with the EP getting used to the EdgePro shuffle seems daunting. But after an hour or so it really isn't so bad. The thing that lingers on is a tendency to hold a better angle with one hand, usually the right hand in a right hand world, be the left for all you Thom type people out there.

The slight variance in holding results in bevels that are uneven from side to side.If one doesn't pay attention and watch it may go unnoticed. An easy check is to measure your bevels. Take your calipers and measure the bevel in 3 or 4 spots on each side of the blade. If there is a difference in the width you have a different hold pattern from side to side.

Now this isn't a big deal for the most part but it will prevent you from getting the best out of your edges. Checking the little things make the biggest differences. When you can measure what your issues are they become much easier to correct.

A loupe 10x -30x, a sharpie or other marker, a set of calipers, a ruler with good markings. Write down for each knife you sharpen, the height of the stone arm, NOT the angle marking but the physical height above the unit to the base of the guide and then measure the distance from the blade edge to the back of the unit. This makes duplicating edge angles a snap when you go to sharpen the blade again. Remember the angle markings are only good to the edge of the table, any overhang of the edge changes the angle according lower.

Really look at your edges, use the sharpie/marker and see where metal is moving from. Get up close and personal with your loupe. Look and make notes. It doesn't happen in a flash. You'll get sharper edges than you ever imagined inside an hour. (Usually) After that the refinement and getting SHARP happens at a slower rate. I'm still finding out little things.
 
Hi armilite

I have an Apex and its OK but prefer the Lansky. The 120 stone is too slow and wares out too fast. Some knives are impossible to hold on the bench as they rock about when sharpening. The stones are a bit too wide for working near the tip of some blades. The steps in between stones is too big, should have more grades like the Lansky, needs a 1000 and 2000 grit stone as well.The gunk that comes of the stones tends to get nto the works of pocket knifes. For me works best with larger kitchen knives. A mate has the Eze Sharp and the Apex and prefers the Eze Sharp. For small blades and folders I think the Lanskly is much better. MAybe the Pro is better but the Apex is not firm enough. Will modify it when I get some time. I will screw it to a plank that can be clamped to the work bench. Also will get some diamond stones from Eze Lap.

Regards
Frank
 
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