How durable is a hamon for a user?

Willie71

Willie71

Warren J. Krywko
Joined
Feb 23, 2013
Messages
12,214
I have several feet of W2 and 1095 steel, and am thinking of making some steak knives from it. It it a waste of time to develop a hamon for a user? Will the steel develop a patina that hides the hamon over time?
 
I can't speak for w2 or 1095, as I haven't made hamons with it yet, But I did make my wife a little kitchen/slicer knife out of w1 a while back and she abuses...I mean uh uses it a lot and you can still see the hamon pretty clearly. Here are some pictures for reference

Here you can see her total disregard for a beautiful piece of art...:)
IMG_20130701_114549_zpsef36586f.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

BUT....
IMG_20130701_114615_zpsf9c437e9.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

The hamon is most definately still there.


-Adam
 
I dont know if its my imagination , but I ve got a knife with an unintentional hamon (made by myself from 1084) and the hamon seems to be increasing over time.
 
Done properly, the hamon is deep into the steel, if not through-and-through. The patina, coloration, and polish can make it stronger (or weaker). This is probably why Eric's 1084 hamon is getting more distinct.
 
If you're talking about a really finely polished hamon, then I sure don't recommend it. The very fine finish will scratch just looking at it sideways. Then as a patina forms, it will hide a great deal of the hard work that went into the polish.

If you're talking about a more aggressively etched/less polished blade, then I think it will be fine.

The knives we eat steak with in our house? A couple super thinly ground blades I made in ATS-34, and a couple of the same in O1. The O1 blades have a decent patina on them. Either one is a nice choice, IMHO. :)
 
OK, I think I got it. Don't waste time super refining and polishing it, but it won't get covered with a patina and hide the hamon. So far all of the kitchen knives I have made have been O1, but unfortunately they have all been gifted out :(.
 
Pretty much. On most hunters I do an etch to bring out the grain and hamon, but I don't do a real fine hand polish to show all the subtleties like is done with a high end Japanese sword. Basically I take them to a decent 600 grit finish and etch 2-3 times in 4-1 water to ferric solution and and lightly buff with pink compound. Makes a fairly good looking finish that will hold up to stains and use and wear.
 
I have a kitchen knife made for me by Mike Davis.
It arrived with a nicely polished hamon.
After a few times cleaning the blade the hamon faded a bit.
Now after about a year of use the blade has developed a nice patina and the hamon is fairly bold again.
 
bladsmth said:
Done properly, the hamon is deep into the steel, if not through-and-through. The patina, coloration, and polish can make it stronger (or weaker). This is probably why Eric's 1084 hamon is getting more distinct.
Click to expand...
Yes, I have a kitchen knife I made for myself several years ago from 1095, and the blade was edge-quenched. The hardening line was not visible at first, but as the blade developed a patina it became very clear and now shows nicely.

One thing to watch for is it will be a thin blade, and therefore easier to flex/bend. If you do a differential hardening on a thin blade, I suggest hardening at least half the width, if not 2/3 to make the blade less 'bendy'.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top