How far to insert the tang?

TRfromMT

TRfromMT

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Jan 4, 2016
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20180527_103537~01.jpg

How far does the tang on a hidden tang need to insert onto the handle?

The sketch above is a plan for my next project. I was going to cut the tang off just past the pin. As it is, it will go almost to the end of the handle and I need to clip it somewhere. Is there a rule of thumb? That blade is about 4.75" long, and the pin is at 2.25".

Thanks in advance.

TR
 
I'm not a knife maker but I've always heard as rule of thumb for a hidden tang is 2/3 to 3/4 of the handle length ... or explained to me another way ... so that you could use a grip with 3 fingers on the tang ...

I'm sure some more knowledgable folks will chime in ...

I like the drawing by the way looks like a nice design.
 
Deeper. The way I look at it is get as much tang into the handle without making the butt weak because of it being thin. This isn't necessary but can't hurt a bit. 3/4 is a good rule of thumb.

I would go to the middle of the second "half" of the handle.
 
I want the pin up in front of the waisted portion, but I could keep the tang a bit longer.
 
The more tng in the handle, the stronger it is. I have seen handles snap off at the end of the tang in some weaker burl woods like buckeye.
3/4 of the handle is a good target.
 
Just a lite bit longer for your tang and it'll be good. Aesthetically I think the pin would look better if you moved it a bit closer to the guard as well .
 
I think tang depth kinda depends on the handle material used. I’m not saying not to go longer but some handle materials really don’t need that much of a tang stub. Antler with a small pith area is crazy strong and does not need alot of tang. I normally remove as much is not all of the pith and fill with a good epoxy like systems three clear coat. But most burl material needs a good amount. Then if you look at man made material some needs more then others.
 
i think some of the decision should depend on the handle material. i recall one of out own forum members on forged in fire, using some stabilized wood, had the end of the handle snap off while chopping. stabilizing does not seem to improve strength. ironwood and micarta would have worked fine. at the minimum, i make the tang as long as my hand is wide. i then lose 3/8" when the guard is installed. that will ensure the majority of force will be applied to handle material that is supported underneath by the tang.
 
Well, this is coming along. The copper was a little tricky to get the slot cut with the limited tools I have for metal working, but I got lucky (managed to keep my row of holes in a straight enough line to be able to carefully finish with a file for a nice, clean fit).

Now some questions. The ironwood has just a couple, very small/short, hairline cracks. You can see them above the finger pocket in the first picture. I am planning to fill with CA glue and continue sanding. Any recommendations to get them to vanish?

Also the copper is pretty shiny. Currently sanded to 800 grit. I do not have a buffer, and I don't think a mirror polish would look too good on this knife anyway. So, I am considering forcing an antique bronze/brown patina on it. Alternatively considering a quick wash with cold gun blue. Any recommendations?

Work in progress pictures... Critiques and comments are welcome. Again, this is the first hidden tang knife I've ever done, so go easy on me...

20180621_065651~01.jpg 20180621_055504~01.jpg
 
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