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how fine a grit
- Thread starter RescueRiley
- Start date
If your just looking to polish the egde, mothers works great (I used it on my strop after 1500 grit wetdry for my saks and other ultra fine-edge blades). Not terribly aggressive though, so be sure you dont have burr or anything and work up through the grits.
As for general grits:
at home:
japanese "King" stones:
800 if a lot to remove
1200 for general sharpening (edge is decent at this point)
6000
belt strop
outdoors:
Fallkniven diamond/ceramic stone: no idea of grits but remove matter pretty fast and ceramic act as a quite thin grit.
belt strop
at home:
japanese "King" stones:
800 if a lot to remove
1200 for general sharpening (edge is decent at this point)
6000
belt strop
outdoors:
Fallkniven diamond/ceramic stone: no idea of grits but remove matter pretty fast and ceramic act as a quite thin grit.
belt strop
Hey Ravaillac...do you find that those fine Japanese stones wear down relatively quickly?
At the fish processing plant I worked at we used a lot of Japanese stones....very fine and a muddy red in colour. They did a great job, but I reckon they wore down pretty fast. Mind you, they were being used continuously to sharpen fillet and trimming knives. They would use both sides, and the stone would get very thin in the middle and eventually break. Naturally I would 'rescue' the broken stones and bring them home.
When stones aren't hard and flat, I tend to 'drag' my blade back over them. If I pushed the edge into the stone, it might dig in to the soft or uneven surface and get damaged.
I have a round ceramic stone that I carry with me on the trapline. It is so fine that it appears to hardly remove any metal at all. I guess it works a bit like a sharpening steel.
At the fish processing plant I worked at we used a lot of Japanese stones....very fine and a muddy red in colour. They did a great job, but I reckon they wore down pretty fast. Mind you, they were being used continuously to sharpen fillet and trimming knives. They would use both sides, and the stone would get very thin in the middle and eventually break. Naturally I would 'rescue' the broken stones and bring them home.
When stones aren't hard and flat, I tend to 'drag' my blade back over them. If I pushed the edge into the stone, it might dig in to the soft or uneven surface and get damaged.
I have a round ceramic stone that I carry with me on the trapline. It is so fine that it appears to hardly remove any metal at all. I guess it works a bit like a sharpening steel.
Yeah, they wear quite quickly. The "official method" is to have twice the same stone and rubber then against each other pretty often.
That's twice the initial price (although roughly same cost in the long run) and somewhat increase wear, but keep both stones flat.
I use two "table top" king 1200 and 6000 and a 1200/6000 combo stone.
Some gadget are sold to replace the second stone. Not sure what they worth:
see in the end of the page:
http://www.ehamono.com/toisi/toisi2.html
in use:
Ah yes Ravaillac....the red stone in the picture looks just like the ones I've used. Thanks for that. Ours were 'Sun Tiger' brand I think, but it wouldn't surprise me if several different marketing brands were used for stones coming from the same factory.
As I recall, not many people seemed to bother about trying to flatten the stones at our fish processing plant...they just adapted their sharpening methods to suit the situation. Applying the most pressure on the 'dragging' stroke appeared to have been one such method. But I do have an idea that sometimes the stone was rubbed back and forth on the wet concrete floor in an attempt to flatten it.
Off the topic....but at this factory the filleting knives were often sharpened to have the greatest bevel on one side. I think a right handed person would have the bevel on the left of the knife (as viewed from above by the user). The factory management was big on getting maximum flesh recovery from each fish, and the idea was that this bevel would allow the filleter to follow the contour of the fishes backbone more closely and thus cut off more flesh.
As I recall, not many people seemed to bother about trying to flatten the stones at our fish processing plant...they just adapted their sharpening methods to suit the situation. Applying the most pressure on the 'dragging' stroke appeared to have been one such method. But I do have an idea that sometimes the stone was rubbed back and forth on the wet concrete floor in an attempt to flatten it.
Off the topic....but at this factory the filleting knives were often sharpened to have the greatest bevel on one side. I think a right handed person would have the bevel on the left of the knife (as viewed from above by the user). The factory management was big on getting maximum flesh recovery from each fish, and the idea was that this bevel would allow the filleter to follow the contour of the fishes backbone more closely and thus cut off more flesh.
- Joined
- Sep 12, 2006
- Messages
- 776
I like to finish up with 2500 grit, then a few swipes on the strop.