You can use the search function (if it works, which it often doesn't) or google with advanced settign set to return only results from bladforums.com, and find a LONG list of threads in which spring steels have been discussed. For what it's worth, my first knife was from an old spring from the local garages junk pile, and it's held up well to constant use by a woodcarver to whittle bits of wood.
Taking the following with a grain of salt since it's culled from advice and threads on here rather than from a mettalurgical degree and decades of experience as some of the later poster will have, but it's what I've learnt from listening in to the discussions.
"BUY SOMETHING THATS A KNOWN STEEL" is the most ocmmon advice, you then know what it is, and can heat treat it according to the specs for that steel and have it behave predictably.
If you wish to carry on with what you have and are willign to accept the waste of time if it ends in tears and lamentations, then remember it's a Mystery metal. Car springs are likely to be 5160, but it could be a lot of other steels that treat to hold a flex and bend under shocks. Heat up and quench a pice and then stick it in a vise and whack it to see if it shatters, if it does then make a knife out of it and treat as for 5160, make another and treat as for 1075 and make a third and treat as for 1095, then test them and see which holds an edge and survives the best. Once you know which one ends with the best result, use that heat treat.
As to using it as is, doesn't it have a bow in it that will make a funny curved knife? and it's probably tempered into a HRC of the mid 40's somewhere, fine for a machete or big woods chopper thats possibly going to meet a rock or brick or other obstruction, but it's not goign to hold an edge like a high 50's low 60's HRC knife.
hope this helps, even if just to spark off all the denunciations explaining why my advice is out of line
good luck