Laurie,
Wootz is really amazing stuff. Remember the thread I posted about my friend's Shamshir?
The blade is only 3-4 mm thick at it's thickest area, just infront of the hilt. And it has a continous distal taper, and yet it come out fine with cutting a piece of pig's spine!
When the sword first arrived, it was slightly bent to one side. (We practice iaido and have bent quite a bit of antique nihonto back to normal, most of them are almost dead soft.) As the blade is so thin, we are reuctant at first to bend the blade, as if it is hard enough to use, then it may snap in bending, if it is resistant to snapping, with such a thin X-section, it is useless.
After 2 days of thinking, we drawn our conclusion. We have to try and bend it back to straight. The resistance to bending it back is very strong but up to a certain point, it can be straigtened. That's amazing!! With that kind of resistance to bending, I would have expected it to snap.
My friend has done a preliminary light etching, and found that maybe, just maybe at the moment, the blade is differentially heat-treated as the back etched a bit faster than the back. And then he tried to use his ats-55 pocket knife to cut into the edge and the back of the sword. The knife can cut into the back but not the edge??!! But he'll do another slow etch to see.
He decided to only do a very very light edge, just to show a little bit of the wootz pattern as this seemed to be a using weapon when it was made.
I've read some posting on rec.knives newsgroup (mostly posted by Dr. Hrisoulas) a few years back about this stuff, but only up to now that I know truely how amazig this stuff is.
Laurie,
Do you know if the smiths will forge-fold wootz? As I read that this stuff is very hot-short and forging it alone required great skill.
Joe