How hard does the steel need to be for 'flint and steel'?

Hey guys,

I notice most of the strikers are bent - does a bit of spring help improve the strike?
 
Well, I might as well put one of mine up too. A complete pocket kit containing tinder cord in a brass tube and a flint. Pouch is 2 3/4" x 2 3/4" 1095 steel quenched in brine and very lightly tempered.

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Tait said:
Hey guys,

I notice most of the strikers are bent - does a bit of spring help improve the strike?
Click to expand...

No. A good striker doesn't take much effort to throw good sparks, also a narrow strike face throws more spark with less effort. The most commonly found old trade strikers are about 1/16" to a tad more in thickness, and are simply an oval washer shape large enough to get a couple of fingers in, and forge welded closed.
 
Rick Marchand said:
Beautiful kit LRB. Nicely thought out!

Rick
Click to expand...

Thanks Rick, but that is an inspired copy of an original type of kit that seems to have had it's origins in North Africa/Mongolia possibly as early as mid to late 18th c. They reportedly were seen by British soldiers and spread to England. Here are drawings in an early 19th c. catalog. 1810/1820. Kit Carson wore a similar type of one these striker kits around his neck.

FireSteels-Timmins.jpg
 
LRB.... I thought that it was still up for debate as to whether the thin strikers were a product of preference or economic material use. Steel was not as available back then. As a user, I prefer a heavier piece. I find I don't have to work as hard. That is highly dependent on method of use, I suppose. I hold the flint and tinder in one hand and strike with the other. The steel is what moves for me. I see others that hold the steel still and strike with the flint. I do agree that if you are doing period correct reproductions you need to go thin, as it was the norm.

Rick
 
I strike the same as you. You are correct in the economy aspect of it, but if you will experiment, I believe you will find a narrow face is easier to get sparks from. Your strike is more concentrated. The draw back of the thin trade types was that they didn't last as long as thicker types. The striker on that kit above is 1/4" thick, and about as max as I would go.
 
That is what is cool about personal experience... it's so "personal".... lol. I have tried thinner strikers. I used them for years because it was "period correct". When I moved to thicker pieces, it was like... "Why didn't I do this sooner?" I find thicker to be much easier. It's like the great knife debate... thick or thin? Just do what you do and have fun.

I don't thing Talfuchre is set up for advanced heat treat, so he has to stay simple. For a non-crucial item like a steel striker, heat and quench is fine.... but a few hours in your home oven at 350-375F would help reduce the risk of breaking.

Edit to add: LRB, I just saw were you said 1/4" is about the max you would go.... that is what I am talking about when I say "thick"... right around 1/4" not much more, not much less.


Rick
 
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