How idiot proof is the Sharpmaker?

B

benhar

Joined
Apr 17, 2012
Messages
92
OK, I'll try to make this my last sharpener related question for a while, I promise...

Before I pull the trigger on a Worksharp Precision Adjust Elite, I want to give the Sharpmaker some consideration since it seems pretty popular here...

Let me preface with the fact I sometimes feel I have the hand-eye coordination of a jellyfish. So between that and low frequency of use, I've assumed I'd be better served with a guided angle system like WS PA, KME, etc.

But even then I know I have to be really particular about getting the clamp in the same spot every time. So all things considered, if my goal is more "glide through paper" and less "the knife cut me while looking at it for IG pictures", is the Sharpmaker idiot proof enough to consider over the WS PA? Or is there a high likelihood of frustration and messed up edges?

Also, I'm not really looking into getting into microbevels, etc., I just want to keep my knifes sharp, and hopefully a little zen time (vs stress and fuss) while making it happen.
 
I'll preface by saying that I'm a certified retard. But I love the Sharpmaker. Been using it over a decade with pretty awesome results. I can usually get a shaving sharp edge on just about anything I sharpen on it. All you have to do is be to hold the knife at 90 degrees and count to 40, which I can barely do given my preface.
 
it's very easy. only issue is factory bevels and edges angles. often not consistent across the blade. once you figure this part out its just adjusting the angle you hold the knife to hit the edge. sharpie on bevel and edge helps to see where your hitting. adjust your hand angle to hit the edge.

some brands come steeper like Buck has a closer to 30 inclusive edge. other brands wider.

other thing is reprofiling. diamond and other triangles spyderco makes are okay, but not great for major reprofile jobs. take way too long. I use dmt course diamond plates and strap them to stones and use that for reprofile jobs.

it's a great touch up tool though.....
 
It depends on the knife and type of grind, I have both, but overall I actually prefer the worksharp system. For me it's all about repeatability of chosen angle and on the sharpmaker my hands just move a little bit and it's off. Both are great systems and both have their uses. If I had to buy just one it would be the worksharp.
 
WadeWilson said:
I'll preface by saying that I'm a certified retard. But I love the Sharpmaker. Been using it over a decade with pretty awesome results. I can usually get a shaving sharp edge on just about anything I sharpen on it. All you have to do is be to hold the knife at 90 degrees and count to 40, which I can barely do given my preface.
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Exactly the kind of thing I was looking for, feedback from fellow retards, thanks!

jbmonkey said:
it's very easy. only issue is factory bevels and edges angles. often not consistent across the blade. once you figure this part out its just adjusting the angle you hold the knife to hit the edge. sharpie on bevel and edge helps to see where your hitting. adjust your hand angle to hit the edge.

some brands come steeper like Buck has a closer to 30 inclusive edge. other brands wider.

other thing is reprofiling. diamond and other triangles spyderco makes are okay, but not great for major reprofile jobs. take way too long. I use dmt course diamond plates and strap them to stones and use that for reprofile jobs.

it's a great touch up tool though.....
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Awesome, thanks! The factory edge part concerned me too. Though I like your idea, I actually have an old DMT Magnaguide set I never had luck with, maybe I can strap those to the stones as well for initial profiling. Might look goofy with handle sticking up, but cheaper than another guided system and guarantees the angle.
 
Yo Mama said:
It depends on the knife and type of grind, I have both, but overall I actually prefer the worksharp system. For me it's all about repeatability of chosen angle and on the sharpmaker my hands just move a little bit and it's off. Both are great systems and both have their uses. If I had to buy just one it would be the worksharp.
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Thanks! that was my concern too, being off just enough to never get a good edge.
 
benhar said:
Thanks! that was my concern too, being off just enough to never get a good edge.
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Like JB said, for a touch up it's good, but the worksharp makes the angles easy. It does take longer vs the sharpmaker in switching stones and sides of the blade.
 
I have a few guided systems and a sharpmaker (and a crock stick branded one that predates the sharpmaker and is just as good IMHO). I would suggest getting the sharpmaker, it does what you are looking for without too much hassle. As has been mentioned it isn't going to reprofile easily and removing edge damage is out of its capabilities but for paper slicing edges in just a few minutes you can't beat it. Clamp systems are great and I use them often but if you just want sharp and to relax while you find it l, clamps are not the way. If you are anything like me you will get one later anyway, meanwhile get the sharpmaker and enjoy life.
 
thebrain said:
I have a few guided systems and a sharpmaker (and a crock stick branded one that predates the sharpmaker and is just as good IMHO). I would suggest getting the sharpmaker, it does what you are looking for without too much hassle. As has been mentioned it isn't going to reprofile easily and removing edge damage is out of its capabilities but for paper slicing edges in just a few minutes you can't beat it. Clamp systems are great and I use them often but if you just want sharp and to relax while you find it l, clamps are not the way. If you are anything like me you will get one later anyway, meanwhile get the sharpmaker and enjoy life.
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I'm debating on just sucking it up and paying extra for the tri-angle diamond stones for the Sharpmaker for any needed reprofiling... but at same time those stones alone cost a little more than the base WorkSharp kit so price wise that would be a wash.
 
FWIW, I did buy the optional Ultra Fine Stones. I am pleased with the results that I get.
 
I have the Sharpmaker but truthfully rarely use it; or when I do use it I don't use it in the sense in which it was designed. The ceramic hones are nice and I just lay them flat and use them as hones.

The Sharpmaker in my experience isn't as much a "maker" as it is a "maintainer" - in my use it has very hard to reprofile, adjust angle, etc (especially as it pertains to "super" steels); to simply bring things back to working condition it is just fine. I will admit, I don't have the diamond rods though; just the two that initially comes with the kit.

This could definitely be my lack of expertise with the kit, I simply have other tools in the tool box I prefer.
 
I have a sharpmaker and a Wicked Edge. I almost never use the sharpmaker. It's mostly reserved for things that don't clamp easily, like the secondary blade on a SAK. Vanadium steels need diamond or CBN abrasives, which you can get for the sharpmaker, but I've read that they are not very durable.

Sometimes a new knife comes with a burr on the factory edge. I clean those up on the sharpmaker. Otherwise, I find it has too many limitations to be a stand alone sharpening solution.
 
It's a great simple system that works very well at keeping relatively sharp knives sharp, and maintenance. You can sharpen a dullish knife on it, but it will take longer than most other methods. (Here is where the diamond or CBN rods are helpful, but still behind diamond plates or a jig that utilizes those plates.)

It's a terrific tool to have in your arsenal no matter what else you happen to have. The angles are very useful, and the ceramic rods are quite good.

I use mine regularly...
 
I got the Worksharp precision adjust. The $130 model that comes with extra stones and I can tell you it sharpens everything I have used it with. Very easy to use also. Knives are screaming razor sharp.
 
The Sharpmaker is great. You can get excellent results with it with basically no skill. You can easily get a knife to the point that you are whisper cutting magazine paper with it. The two main drawbacks of course are that you can only choose from 15 or 20 degrees per side unless you want to do freehand, and you can't really use it to reprofile unless you buy the diamond sticks. If you flip the base over, there is a spot for you to lay the sticks flat for freehand sharpening. Some people also fasten diamond plates to the ceramic sticks, which allows them to avoid having to buy the diamond sticks for when they want to use the sharpmaker to reprofile.

benhar said:
So all things considered, if my goal is more "glide through paper" and less "the knife cut me while looking at it for IG pictures", is the Sharpmaker idiot proof enough to consider over the WS PA? Or is there a high likelihood of frustration and messed up edges?
Click to expand...

If the question is "how idiot proof is the sharpmaker?", then the answer is "very".

There are only two ways you could possibly screw up when using a Spyderco Triangle Sharpmaker. You can either put the sticks in the wrong set of slots or you can put the base down on a surface that isn't level. That's pretty much it. If you do either, and somehow you just never notice your mistake, then you'll still end up with a sharp knife. It's just not going to be at the angle you wanted or the bevel won't be symetrical, but either way the knife will still be sharp.

benhar said:
Also, I'm not really looking into getting into microbevels
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It's funny because I've actually seen people complaining that you can't add a microbevel with the Sharpmaker, which is probably one of the dumbest things that I have ever heard. You can easily add a microbevel with the Sharpmaker. It's really simple. When you are done with your primary bevel, you just tilt the spine of the blade slightly farther away from the stick and give it a few passes, then do the same on the other side.
 
The SharpMaker is a very good tool for EDGEKEEPING. That is to say, once you have established a sharp edge the SM can keep that in tune for years. The BUT is that if you start with an uneven grind (as with surprisingly, many (not all by far) new knives) or a damaged edge the basic SM is not a 40 stroke per side sharpener. You need to know the basics of getting to a burr and so marking the edge with a marker and keeping an eye on your progress as you progress through the stones (and when to progress to the next level) is essential. This can be a very time consuming process with the SharpMaker - though certainly achievable. I do have the coarser diamond grit rods to augment the basic brown and white rod set.

Conclusion - relatively idiot proof if you are starting with a sharp and well defined edge. More complex if you need some edge correction. I love mine, available to me for EDGEKEEPING. Simple and efficient without needing dedicated space to work.
 
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