How idiot proof is the Sharpmaker?

Yeah, I guess so. 🤔
Yeah, I was worried about something like that or just messing up the grind from not holding a consistently perpendicular stroke. So maybe I shouldn’t have said “idiot” but maybe “dexterity challenged” lol.

The SharpMaker is a very good tool for EDGEKEEPING. That is to say, once you have established a sharp edge the SM can keep that in tune for years. The BUT is that if you start with an uneven grind (as with surprisingly, many (not all by far) new knives) or a damaged edge the basic SM is not a 40 stroke per side sharpener. You need to know the basics of getting to a burr and so marking the edge with a marker and keeping an eye on your progress as you progress through the stones (and when to progress to the next level) is essential. This can be a very time consuming process with the SharpMaker - though certainly achievable. I do have the coarser diamond grit rods to augment the basic brown and white rod set.

Conclusion - relatively idiot proof if you are starting with a sharp and well defined edge. More complex if you need some edge correction. I love has mine available to me for EDGEKEEPING. Simple and efficient without needing dedicated space to work.
Thanks! So, I guess bottom line there, if I only intend to maintain like 3-5 folders and 1-2 fixed blades, would it serve me well to get the diamond rods so I can use the Sharpmaker for initial profiling, or get an angle guide like the PA now and get the Sharpmaker later?
 
Thanks! So, I guess bottom line there, if I only intend to maintain like 3-5 folders and 1-2 fixed blades, would it serve me well to get the diamond rods so I can use the Sharpmaker for initial profiling, or get an angle guide like the PA now and get the Sharpmaker later?

With the diamond rods, a magic marker, a magnifying glass, diamond rods and patients - you can likely get any good condition knife to being able to use the basic SharpMaker set regularly. If you are buying your knives used from antique stores or new cheap knives from not so reliable manufacturers the SM will be a slow start and not very satisfying. If you are buying new Spydercos or the like in terms of quality, your SM will be a great start and a good long term solution too. There are more sophisticated systems for sure but for the price the SM is a great and effective tool.

If you are looking to get the PERFECT- matched bevel -18° each side - edge every time - then you will need a more sophisticated system. The SM is not for a OCD type of person. Other systems don't lend themselves very well to simply being on your kitchen counter top and ever at the ready for a quick tune up BUT they can, with practice, get you the most scary sharp edges consistently.

If you are happy with whisper slicing through phone book paper or clean thin tomato slices then the SharpMaker, without a big investment of $$s up front or time with each blade. can give you those useful slicey EDC edges that are more than good enough - though they might not stand to scrutiny under a magnifying glass. ;)

My 2¢.
 
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I have measured factory edge angles on dozens of knives. At a guess, maybe one out of ten is 15 degrees on both sides or 20 degrees on both sides.

If you watch Sal on Youtube, you can see that not even he is really good at keeping the blade vertical. You will probably get a convex edge from a SharpMaker. That is neither good nor bad in itself, it's just a matter of what you prefer. The old Work Sharp Precision Adjust will also give you a somewhat convex edge, although you can get accessories from Leading Edge to get not-quite-co-convex edges. If you want a V edge, get a solid guided system like a Work Sharp Professional Precision Adjust, Hapstone, TSProf, Wicked Edge, etc.
 
The Sharpmaker is at its absolute best and easiest when it's used simply to maintain a well-set and already fairly sharp edge. If you start with an edge that's set to good geometry and fully apexed already, either from the factory or via a guided system, then the SM really excels at enhancement in just a minimum of passes at a very light touch. It's been said often here on the forum, the Sharpmaker would've better been named the 'SharpKeeper', as it really excels in that capacity for maintenance of edges that are essentially good and not too neglected.

The learning curve gets much steeper though, if one is trying to make a very dull & neglected edge sharp on the device. That's where the errror in holding the angle gets compounded over hundreds, if not thousands, of consecutive honing passes and many hours of work. Fatigue will become an issue for the hands, wrists, neck & back, shoulders, etc., which then adds another layer of imprecision to the results. The result being, a rounded apex that gets even more so as the work drags on.

I've always preferred to set my edges to geometry narrower than the 30° setting on the SM, such as down to 25° inclusive or so. I do that on appropriately coarse & larger stones (bench stones), which speeds that work considerably (4X or more faster, at least). You can use a guide with a bench stone, such as DMT's Aligner clamp, to set very flat & crisp bevels. With the edge set this way and then proceeding to the SM, just holding the angle perpendicular to the table on the SM will add just the tiniest bit of microbevel in just a pass (maybe up to 3 passes) per side. Adding that tiny microbevel will narrow the apex width and also strengthen the apex somewhat, which will produce a noticeable improvement in cutting ease and edge longevity. This is how I usually maintain the knives I use everyday, and it only takes maybe 2-3 minutes attention to do so, if that.
 
If you want something similar to the Sharpmaker but with a wider range of angle setting, give this a try.

 
The learning curve gets much steeper though, if one is trying to make a very dull & neglected edge sharp on the device. That's where the errror in holding the angle gets compounded over hundreds, if not thousands, of consecutive honing passes and many hours of work. Fatigue will become an issue for the hands, wrists, neck & back, shoulders, etc., which then adds another layer of imprecision to the results. The result being, a rounded apex that gets even more so as the work drags on.

I'm sorry but this is just silly. There is no way that anyone is going to use it like that.

You either get the diamond rods for reprofiling, or you fasten a diamond plate to each rod and use that to reprofile with. You are not going to be sitting there for hours on end trying to reprofile some super steel knife on a medium ceramic. Even the most stubborn and persistent fool is going to walk away at some point, even if only temporarily, long before they could ever get to the point where their back is is in pain and their hands aren't able to do something as simple as holding a knife veritcally.

Normally when I see your posts I pay very close attention and I take you very seriously. This is one of those rare instances when I can't do that.
 
I'll preface by saying that I'm a certified retard. But I love the Sharpmaker. Been using it over a decade with pretty awesome results. I can usually get a shaving sharp edge on just about anything I sharpen on it. All you have to do is be to hold the knife at 90 degrees and count to 40, which I can barely do given my preface.
I love reading this. I have been using the Spyderco bench stones (medium and fine, and very seldom the extra-fine), and have needed nothing else. I'm an Arkansas stone guy, and haven't touched them since the Spydies arrived. They really are great...but heard they were just discontinued.

Having said that, I bought a Sharpmaker during the recent Spyderco Summer sales, and it's just sitting on my coffee table accumulating dust. I don't really need it, but it's nice to know that it's a great system. At some point I'll reach over the Spydie stones and open the Sharpmaker.
 
I'm sorry but this is just silly. There is no way that anyone is going to use it like that.

You either get the diamond rods for reprofiling, or you fasten a diamond plate to each rod and use that to reprofile with. You are not going to be sitting there for hours on end trying to reprofile some super steel knife on a medium ceramic. Even the most stubborn and persistent fool is going to walk away at some point, even if only temporarily, long before they could ever get to the point where their back is is in pain and their hands aren't able to do something as simple as holding a knife veritcally.

Normally when I see your posts I pay very close attention and I take you very seriously. This is one of those rare instances when I can't do that.
My mention of that is from seeing many just such complaints about the SM here on the forum, over the last 13-14 years or so I've been watching. The question comes up of 'Why is this so slow?' from those who haven't yet gained the experience to understand what alternatives would be faster & more efficient. Someone completely new to sharpening won't realize or maybe even question how much faster other alternatives can be until they've sat for hours working with the SM or similar tools. And even then, many are still intimidated by the prospect of using bench stones instead and may still resist trying those alternatives for some time after.

And with the diamond or CBN rods on the SM, you're still limited with use of pressure (SM would be unstable with any real pressure applied for major grinding jobs), availability of abrasive surface area and by the default grit available (400 or so) with the SM's diamond or CBN to speed up the job. A large & wide bench hone of 8" x 3" (24 square inches of abrasive surface) will still get the job done in multiples of time quicker than trying to do it on a rod with maybe 6" x 1/2" (3 square inches) of working surface to use.

So yes, the diamond or cbn rods can speed up the work in relation the time needed with only the ceramics. But using a bench stone in a more appropriate grit choice and with 8X the working surface area of the SM's rods, can then cut the job down to about 1/4 the time spent doing the same on the SM's diamond or cbn rods. A two-hour reprofiling job on those rods can be reduced to 30 minutes on the bench stone, if not less.
 
My mention of that is from seeing many just such complaints about the SM here on the forum, over the last 13-14 years or so I've been watching. The question comes up of 'Why is this so slow?' from those who haven't yet gained the experience to understand what alternatives would be faster & more efficient.

I've seen it a couple of times too. What I see way, way, way more often than that is people preemptively explaining that the ceramaic rods that come with the sharpmaker are super slow for reprofiling, and that you probably don't want to use it that way.

What I haven't seen is anyone complaining that the sharpmaker made their back hurt, or their arms or their shoulders sore, or that they can't hold the knife straight. And that would be pretty silly when you can simply use the sharpmaker while you're sitting down.

Someone completely new to sharpening won't realize or maybe even question how much faster other alternatives can be until they've sat for hours working with the SM or similar tools. And even then, many are still intimidated by the prospect of using bench stones instead and may still resist trying those alternatives for some time after.

If you think someone can't consistently hold a knife vertically, then how are you going to expect them to hold the same angle on a bench stone?

The whole point of the sharpmaker is that it's easy to hold a knife straight up and down, which allows you to get a consistent angle with very little effort and no skill at all. If someone can't do that to the point where it becomes an issue over time as you were claiming, then how are you seriously going to recommend that they switch to using bench stones? I don't get it.

And it's okay, maybe I'm in the wrong here. I don't have to get it. I just don't want someone else coming away with the wrong idea. Sometimes we get bad information in our heads early on and it becomes difficult to unlearn that information later down the road. That's what bothers me.

And with the diamond or CBN rods on the SM, you're still limited with use of pressure (SM would be unstable with any real pressure applied for major grinding jobs)

You're not supposed to use it that way. Light pressure, let the stone or the diamonds do the work for you. I know that you know this. Spyderco tells people this as well.
 
It's okay, David. I still "get" you.

(And I've known some people who have labored for long periods with a Sharpmaker when alternatives would have been a much better call.)

Keep on bringin' it.
 
I've seen it a couple of times too. What I see way, way, way more often than that is people preemptively explaining that the ceramaic rods that come with the sharpmaker are super slow for reprofiling, and that you probably don't want to use it that way.

What I haven't seen is anyone complaining that the sharpmaker made their back hurt, or their arms or their shoulders sore, or that they can't hold the knife straight. And that would be pretty silly when you can simply use the sharpmaker while you're sitting down.



If you think someone can't consistently hold a knife vertically, then how are you going to expect them to hold the same angle on a bench stone?

The whole point of the sharpmaker is that it's easy to hold a knife straight up and down, which allows you to get a consistent angle with very little effort and no skill at all. If someone can't do that to the point where it becomes an issue over time as you were claiming, then how are you seriously going to recommend that they switch to using bench stones? I don't get it.

And it's okay, maybe I'm in the wrong here. I don't have to get it. I just don't want someone else coming away with the wrong idea. Sometimes we get bad information in our heads early on and it becomes difficult to unlearn that information later down the road. That's what bothers me.



You're not supposed to use it that way. Light pressure, let the stone or the diamonds do the work for you. I know that you know this. Spyderco tells people this as well.
Regarding the issue of sore hands, wrists, neck & back... That's part of the path I went down when I was learning, and while sitting down. Even just focusing on holding the angle vertical with only one hand is physically challenging for anyone trying to do heavier repair or reprofiling over the span of an hour or more. That's when the aches & fatigue will set in. Add some age-related wear & tear on the body, and those issues will be compounded.

As for how to hold the angle on a bench stone - already covered that with the suggestion to use a guide compatible with a bench stone (DMT Aligner clamp, among others). And other freehand techniques for maintaining the angle can be used more easily on a benchstone, like using your thumb or finger as an angle guide on the spine of the blade, skimming lightly across the stone with each sharpening pass. It works well. And a finger or two of the other hand placed just behind the edge bevel at the point of contact on stone will be an easy way to focus some grinding pressure and feel for flush contact. With fingers both behind the edge and at the spine, angle control becomes even more stable.

And the limitation of light pressure (as directed) is a big part of why the process will be so much slower, trying to do a big profiling job on SM alone, even with the diamond/cbn rods. A lubricated diamond plate of benchstone size can be used with somewhat heavier pressure AND better angle stability, significantly heavier than can be used with the SM due to its stability issues. And if one is just hogging off metal, then something like a SiC benchstone can be used at much heavier grinding pressure, with no worries about damaging the stone. A SiC stone will still work in doing such jobs on high-wear steels, if you're just thinning out the grind. Then, the light pressure tactic on a diamond hone for the refining steps will go much quicker after the grind geometry is already set.

All of the things mentioned above are what I've personally learned and done, having gone through the same steep learning curve with V-crock style sharpeners like the SM - I have a collection of maybe 6 or more of these types, all with the same limitations of small abrasive working surface and stability issues related to pressure applied, which limits the speed of the work. When one finally jumps fully into the process and tries some of the better alternatives, the lessons learned will hit like an epiphany - like figuring out a reprofile can be done in 30 minutes, instead of 2 hours or longer. It's impossible to know how good some things can work until one actually tries them. That's what I'm trying to encourage in posts like these.
 
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When I get a new knife I nearly all the time reprofile on a coarse benchstone.I think the only time I can remember is on a Buck 110 which was sufficiently thin to go straight to the Sharpmaker.After that I use the diamond rods to back bevel at 15 degrees to progressively keep the edge bevel thin before going to the 20 degree sticks.Works quite well.
 
The whole point of the sharpmaker is that it's easy to hold a knife straight up and down, which allows you to get a consistent angle with very little effort and no skill at all.
It may be easy for you, but having watched several people using a SharpMaker on Youtube when I was trying to decide whether to get one, I can assure you that some people find it difficult.
 
So just to follow up, I ended up with the Sharpmaker + Diamond rods. Tried it tonight and was able to get my old Kabar Dozier shaving my arm and gliding through paper. Which might be a low bar for many, but it’s actually the first time I’ve ever gotten anything that sharp by hand and not with an electric sharpener.

Very happy with it, thanks all!
 
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