How Important Are Factory Bevels?

Sorry for the confusion, if your using all the same abrasive (diamonds) their is no need to worry its only when you use several different abrasives that it becomes a problem.

As of now I have the XC, F, XF, and XXF, I'm working on completing the set because it will make things faster and easier but these stones are not cheap. What I have now is what I would consider a good starter set unless you have the funds to get them all.

The 710 is a whole other problem, the recurve makes using the benchstones not a option and personally I think a small convex bevel is probably the best way to go. Using sandpaper with the 710 shouldn't be too much of a problem, the thinner stock of the knife makes it a bit easier to sharpen though it will still take a while D2 is pretty wear resistant.
 
The bevel angle is dictated by the hardness of the steel and the intended application of the blade. There aren't any truly correct angles so there is no way a factory angle can be anything other than a guess or an average since the factory has only half of the equation.

I have always reground every single knife blade I own prior to its first use. Everyone should do the same, I think.
 
They mean nothin,

I needed to sharpen my Izula and it had a factory bevel of more than 40°, If it were less than that i'd keep it a V-grind but with it being to much i ended up convexing it because i dont have the equipment to back the edge up
 
knifenut1013 said:
I exclusively use DMT benchstones because of their speed and effectiveness. Also using the same type of abrasive from start to finish makes the learning curve much shorter, each type of abrasive has its own technique and trying to get that technique while switching from stone to stone will only cause confusion and frustration even for a experienced sharpener.

The size of the stone needed has little to do with the size of the knife, though the bigger the stone the easier it will be to sharpen any blade. I like the 8x3 stones because it allows me to have more working area and the EEF stone that as of now is only offered in the diafolds, aligner stones, and 8x3 benchstones.

If you like good steel like me then I highly suggest investing in diamond hones,
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+1:thumbup:
Thanks to knifenut I now have all DMT benchstones including the EEF, their finest grit stone. I was able to shave after the coarse grit step, working on a thick(3/8''), A2 steel, fixed blade knife. It just got better after each grit change from there. I also agree with staying on the same medium for each step as things do change substantially when you move from one type to another.
 
They mean diamonds versus aluminum oxide versus Japanese-style waterstones versus sandpaper versus Belgian coticules versus Arkansas stones...

Personally, I don't think it's that ridiculous to go all diamond stones and then a loaded leather strop, but some people use polishing powders or films on flat surfaces to prevent rounding over their edges.
 
cziv said:
I hate to sound mentally challenged Lucky Bob, but what does that mean?

Can you give me an example of what you mean? I'm new to sharpening.

Thanks in advance! :confused:
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You should probably start your own thread as to not hijack this one :)
 
Personally I think getting the DMT hones is a pretty good suggestion, they are great hones. However, I don't and haven't noticed a problem with switching between different types of abrasives when sharpening. How much do you really want to spend on stones? Do you know how to sharpen already? Are you willing to learn how to freehand on benchhones, or just want a system or jig to hold an angle for you? Hint a good sharpener can get a sharp edge with a cinder block and cardboard. You don't need good stones to get a good sharp edge, but they are nicer to sharpen on. I for a long time used a cheap black silica hone and a Spyderco double stuff for all my sharpening. Heck those two hones are still the two I use in the kitchen for my kitchen knives. You could easily be happy with a DMT xcoarse and a DMT xfine hone to start out with if that is the rout your going.
 
Thanks DB!

I'm going to read over my posts which have been deleted and perhaps will start a new thread.

I don't want to keep the OPer's thread moving away from his question. "How Important Are Factory Bevels?"

With all due repsect. I for one don't care about them - my preference is for my own bevel. :)
 
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cziv said:
Thanks DB!

I'm going to read over my posts which have been deleted and perhaps will start a new thread.

I don't want to keep the OPer's thread moving away from his question. "How Important Are Factory Bevels?"

With all due repsect. I for one don't care about them - my preference is for my own bevel. :)
Click to expand...
Wow I don't think there was any need to delete them at all. Topic drift is common and how or what you use to remove factory angles seems to be related to the point of this thread.
 
Yeah Cziv, ya didn't need to delete them its ok to drift in a thread I was just saying that so we wouldn't offend to OP by getting too far off subject.
 
I just joined today and don't want to ruffle any feathers. I'm happy to be a member and want to abide by admonitions from senior members.

I've learned a lot - that being that "I don't know beans about sharpening hard steel grades like you guys."

It might be best for me to have my problematic knives sharpened by an expert so far it's just my new 710 D2.

The others should respond to a little patience and a Sharpmaker.

Thanks for your encouragement guys! :)
 
Some coarse sandpaper on that Sharpmaker will help alot with that D2 recurved beast. :)
 
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