How is a Paramilitary 2 lock supposed to close?

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Nikkogi

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I recently got a Para2 and the lock sticks a little bit when closed. With a "perfect" one, how is it supposed to action? Thanks

Also, mine is almost halfway over when engaged.
 
Mine was very sticky from the factory but has now since broken in a bit. It still sticks some, but it's not nearly as bad as it was at first. As far as where the lock bar sits, mine is just before halfway if looking through the back. But, if you actually look where the lock bar engages the tang, it's not even close to half way across the tang.

My advice would be to cycle you lock a couple thousand (literally) times with NO lube on the lock face. This will help to break in the lock.
 
I am not sure what you are asking. The Paramilitary 2 compression lock has a ball bearing detent just like a Walker liner lock. This ball fits into a hole in the blade tang when the knife is closed, holding it shut. In order to open the knife, the lockbar has to flex over and let the ball up and out of the detent hole in the blade tang, which may be the "sticking" you are feeling.
 
yablanowitz said:
I am not sure what you are asking. The Paramilitary 2 compression lock has a ball bearing detent just like a Walker liner lock. This ball fits into a hole in the blade tang when the knife is closed, holding it shut. In order to open the knife, the lockbar has to flex over and let the ball up and out of the detent hole in the blade tang, which may be the "sticking" you are feeling.
Click to expand...

Shoot, I think I misunderstood his question. If the detent is the "problem" then, good explanation Yab.
 
Like I said, I'm not sure what he is asking. He may be saying that it is sticking when he tries to release it. New compression locks do that sometimes.
 
Haha, I posted the complete opposite of what I wanted lmao! I guess that's what you get for trying to do three things at once!! When the knife is opened and the compression lock is engaged, how hard should it be to compress the lock?
 
Mine engages by the thickness of the lockbar, and releases easily, but it is one of the S90V/CF Sprint Run pieces, not regular production. They changed the lock a little after the first batch to address some small issues, moved the release tab forward to give more leverage I think, so if yours is one of the early pieces, that could be the problem. Try contacting Spyderco Warranty and Repair directly if it doesn't ease up soon.
 
Yes my new compression lock was kinda sticky the culprit appears to be the machining of the stop pin. There are slight vertical grooves that causes the lock bar to get caught in when opened forcefully. It will wear in time. I polished off the striations a bit not entirely and beveled the right edge of the lock bar that hits the stop pin first. It no longer sticks even in the slightest. I wouldn't recommend this though if you remove to much metal the lock-up could become compromised. Plus it probably voids your warranty.
 
Nikkogi said:
I recently got a Para2 and the lock sticks a little bit when closed. With a "perfect" one, how is it supposed to action? Thanks

Also, mine is almost halfway over when engaged.
Click to expand...

I have one that engages at 50% new and I believe it's in spec. No issue there. As for the sticky lock, it will go away when it breaks in. I did have issues disengaging the lock with my thumb. It wasn't comfortable. So I changed to using my index finger instead.

I shift my hand a bit so that I can pinch the lock between my thumb and index finger. It's a much more natural action so more force is applied to the lock. It disengages easily. Enjoy the knife.
 
My para 2 is about 2 weeks old and is just stopping to stick a lil at about 50%..
Bout the same as my old D2
 
Orion's Belt said:
.......As far as where the lock bar sits, mine is just before halfway if looking through the back. But, if you actually look where the lock bar engages the tang, it's not even close to half way across the tang.........
Click to expand...

Same here. :thumbup: In this photo, the lockbar on the left appears farther from center, but it's just an optical illusion. Both of mine are the same... just a tad to the left of center.

picture119e.jpg
 
Like Orion's Belt said, it will get better after time. Just keep playing with it or just allow it to get better over time. Either way, don't use any type of lubrication. Lube will cause it to wear more than necessary, from what I was told.

Mine were sticky too but I just kept playing with them and now they're perfect.
 
Out of the 4 P2's I have owned only one didn't have a sticky lock. So I'm starting to think that the sticky lock scenario is more of a standard than any kind of deffect. My EDC P2 started off with a sticky lock and it took about four days to loosen up.
 
Undertow82 said:
Like Orion's Belt said, it will get better after time. Just keep playing with it or just allow it to get better over time. Either way, don't use any type of lubrication. Lube will cause it to wear more than necessary, from what I was told.

Mine were sticky too but I just kept playing with them and now they're perfect.
Click to expand...
I always lube the pivot area of my folders with Breakfree clp,is that something you shouldn't do with the Para 2 ?
 
skyhorse said:
I always lube the pivot area of my folders with Breakfree clp,is that something you shouldn't do with the Para 2 ?
Click to expand...

You're good. I meant not to lube the lock bar or the blade tang because it causes the lock bar to swing further than it has to while breaking in.

The pivot should always be kept lubed up.
 
For the people whose locks stick:do you "flick" open you knives? My Para 2 has immaculate action, no sticking, and engages at maybe 25-35%. However, I was messing around and tried flicking it open once, and it cause the lock to engage further, and to stick. Now that's one more reason I don't flick my knives anymore...and for me, the standard opening is just a quick and easy after enough practice.

Just something to think about.
 
mentaculus said:
For the people whose locks stick:do you "flick" open you knives? My Para 2 has immaculate action, no sticking, and engages at maybe 25-35%. However, I was messing around and tried flicking it open once, and it cause the lock to engage further, and to stick. Now that's one more reason I don't flick my knives anymore...and for me, the standard opening is just a quick and easy after enough practice.

Just something to think about.
Click to expand...

No flicking here. Just normal Spyder-Hole opening. It still binds a bit, but not to the point that it makes me think badly about the knife.
 
When opened "softly" it doesn't stick nearly as bad. The best way I've found to open it is to press the compression lock and swing the blade open.
 
I have 2 G10 P2s and 1 CF Sprint P2, and the quick Spydie hole'flick' opening is exactly when my lock sticks also.

It takes considerably more force to close it - I have to change my grip and use my index finger and thumb to pinch the tab.

So I too, can attest to the fact that the extra force of the sweetly smooth and fast 'flick' open, is precisely what can make this lock bar snug up to the tang a good bit tighter than the slow.., smooth.., methodical, .. t a k e . . y o u r . . t i m e . . w h a t s . . t h e . . h u r r y . . 'listen for the click' opening.

The slow open gives a buttah smooth release, and my blades just swing closed with ease.

Regardless, I love both P2s and will buy the DLC digi cam P2 as soon as it is out.
 
My Para 2 has a pretty sticky lock. It reminds me of my Sebenza in that I have to apply concentrated pressure and hold the knife just right to unlock it. It doesn't hurt, but it does turn the Para 2 into a 2 hand closer for me. I tried putting some sharpie on the contact point, but it didn't make a difference. I have noticed that the sharpie only wears at one small contact point, about the size of a pen tip, so maybe once that nub on the lock bar wears down it will smooth up. Only had the Para 2 a week so far, definately gonna give it more time before I really complain. Just wasn't as butter smooth as my Spyderco liner and frame locks have always been.
 
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