How is this possible?

CrimsonTideShooter

CrimsonTideShooter

Joined
Oct 23, 2010
Messages
3,196
Ok so my edge pro came in and I finally sharpened out all the chips I put in the edge of my 5. After I was done the edge was pristine and sharp as a razor.

Fast forward to tonight. I went outside and debarked a big piece of dogwood I have and also chopped through it 3 times to make it smaller. Mind you this piece of wood is 5 inches thick and I was working on it for a good hour. I came back inside and just for giggles I tried to slice paper. To my surprise the 5 was still plenty sharp enough to cleanly slice paper over and over again. I'm amazed that it can do that. How can the edge stay so sharp after I cut with it and chopped for so long?
 
ROWEN has an amazing heat treat process that makes the 1095 perform very well. If you've seen any of the "destruction test" videos you will notice how much the blade deflects (bends) before snapping. This means the steel is springy, not brittle, and gives the steel a very good ability to keep a strong edge instead of it chipping off.

I think the results surprised most people (including myself) the first time they beat their knives and expected to have to repair the edges. They really do make tools that can last and last.
 
wolffbite said:
ROWEN has an amazing heat treat process that makes the 1095 perform very well. If you've seen any of the "destruction test" videos you will notice how much the blade deflects (bends) before snapping. This means the steel is springy, not brittle, and gives the steel a very good ability to keep a strong edge instead of it chipping off.

I think the results surprised most people (including myself) the first time they beat their knives and expected to have to repair the edges. They really do make tools that can last and last.
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Awesome! It definitely surprised me. I just didn't expect it to slice newspaper cleanly like that after an hour of hard use.

Got a link to those destruction vids
 
Keep this in mind: even with blades that are not differentially tempered, the cutting edge may be more brittle than it needs to be. Brittle meaning, having more of a tendency to chip than to roll. This chip/roll divide should only be on the narrowest scale.

The edge being narrow, when the blade is heat treated, it will "over treat" long before the spine will. So the first sharpening will remove this weak zone, and subsequent performance of the edge will be much more robust. This is what you saw: you sharpened into the better heat treated steel just behind the original edge.

And now you know one of the reasons a real knife knut likes to sharpen all his new knives. Another is his preference for an edge perhaps more or less robust than the factory setting. And the best reason of all: because we like playing with knives and sharpening a knife is one way of making the new acquisition our own, more than just a purchase. :)
 
That's good info. Thanks for teaching me something! I had no clue that the edge would withstand that much use and not show even the slightest bit of dulling. I guess the 40 degree inclusive edge helps with this also?


Esav Benyamin said:
Keep this in mind: even with blades that are not differentially tempered, the cutting edge may be more brittle than it needs to be. Brittle meaning, having more of a tendency to chip than to roll. This chip/roll divide should only be on the narrowest scale.

The edge being narrow, when the blade is heat treated, it will "over treat" long before the spine will. So the first sharpening will remove this weak zone, and subsequent performance of the edge will be much more robust. This is what you saw: you sharpened into the better heat treated steel just behind the original edge.

And now you know one of the reasons a real knife knut likes to sharpen all his new knives. Another is his preference for an edge perhaps more or less robust than the factory setting. And the best reason of all: because we like playing with knives and sharpening a knife is one way of making the new acquisition our own, more than just a purchase. :)
Click to expand...
 
CrimsonTideShooter said:
I guess the 40 degree inclusive edge helps with this also?
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Yes, that's what I meant by "Another is his preference for an edge perhaps more or less robust than the factory setting."

A knife can come with a perfect heat treat and a perfect edge ... but perfect for what? If I use a Junglas up north in hardwood forests, I may want a more obtuse edge than someone cutting softer vegetation along the Gulf coast. Each will put on a perfect edge for his own different need.
 
I have chopped through a good dozen 1-2" saplings, roughed out a fork of hardwood, did some debarking, and numerous other tasks I cannot recall and it still easily cuts paper. It lost its hair-shaving edge the first day or two but has stayed at a paper cutting sharpness for some time. I did take a couple passes on a strop once though so it is not an untouched edge. Oh, and some batoning;)

Kaleb
 
It's all about the heat treatment. needless to say, esee knives are blessed with a fine heat treatment
 
Glad to hear it. The several ESEE knives I've had are all solid performance tools. Waiting on my 5 as we speak!
 
CrimsonTideShooter said:
Haha nope! The edge pro took all those dings right out and I'm left with a perfect edge. It still doesn't look pretty, but it sure does cut well.
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Since the Sharpmaker attacked your 5 and you now have an EP, want to sell me that Sharpmaker for next to nothing? What can I say, I'm a nice guy like that. :D
 
adaman04 said:
Since the Sharpmaker attacked your 5 and you now have an EP, want to sell me that Sharpmaker for next to nothing? What can I say, I'm a nice guy like that. :D
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I gotta keep it. It's too good for quick touch ups. :thumbup:

I will definitely be more careful with it now because it sure can booger up a blade.
 
Esav Benyamin said:
Yes, that's what I meant by "Another is his preference for an edge perhaps more or less robust than the factory setting."

A knife can come with a perfect heat treat and a perfect edge ... but perfect for what? If I use a Junglas up north in hardwood forests, I may want a more obtuse edge than someone cutting softer vegetation along the Gulf coast. Each will put on a perfect edge for his own different need.
Click to expand...

I usually prefer 30 inclusive on my EDC knives, but for whatever reason I noticed that my Izula performs much better at 40 inclusive than I would have thought. I think it's because of the full flat grind.
 
To be honest I think ROWEN changed something important. The newest knife i got was SCARY sharp.
 
Yeppers..One of the first things I did with my first ESEE was go out and beat the beans out of it. I chopped a large tree branch, made a spear (hardwood) cut into the side of an old VERY hard 3 in. thick oak plank 30-40 times, slammed it into the end grain of the oak plank 3-4 in. deep.20+ times, And it still cut paper like it was out of the box. ESEE heat treat is a treat.!!!! Tough blades ever made!!! And I never hear them brag. WOW. They got the rights to.:D
edgy :thumbup:
 
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