How long do flippers last?

H

HyperXHyperX

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Dec 29, 2021
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So I'm rather new to knives, at least 'enthusiastically' and I'm wondering how often can one open and close a flipper before the mechanism isn't fluid enough for it to be a viable opening method.

You see, I have a small, cheap EDC since a few months, and I don't even use it that often. I've allowed it to run dry and noticed that the opening mechanism got rather gritty, apparently due to the 'ball' on the liner carving a track into the blade. I've oiled my knife and it's much better now, but that got me thinking the fluidity of flippers doesn't really last long.
Or is it just me due to not oiling my knife and they last a long time?

What's your experience with flippers?
 
A good quality flipper will need little maintenance and will operate properly longer than you’ll own the knife. The tolerances of a quality knife will allow for longer life.
Quality doesn’t necessarily mean super expensive.
Thread 'Everyone's latest acquisitions!'
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/everyones-latest-acquisitions.1376705/
Here’s a thread to look through and read peoples thoughts on different knives
 
Ajack60 said:
A good quality flipper will need little maintenance and will operate properly longer than you’ll own the knife. The tolerances of a quality knife will allow for longer life.
Quality doesn’t necessarily mean super expensive.
Thread 'Everyone's latest acquisitions!'
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/everyones-latest-acquisitions.1376705/
Here’s a thread to look through and read peoples thoughts on different knives
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That's good to hear, didn't expect it to last longer than me, though.

The knife in question is the Fox B.Key (BF-750). I wouldn't call it high quality, but I guess there are far worse choices out there.

Thanks for the link, checking it out right now.
 
Every flipper style folding mechanism, in fact every folding knife will last exactly twice as long as the number of times the action is used, it takes to get to 50% of the margin for wear of the mechanism before it begins to show slop or failure.🙃😉
 
eveled said:
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elasmonut said:
Every flipper style folding mechanism, in fact every folding knife will last exactly twice as long as the number of times the action is used, it takes to get to 50% of the margin for wear of the mechanism before it begins to show slop or failure.🙃😉
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Hahaha, yeah that's funny because that's how I formulated the question, but I meant it more in the sense of how long does it last (with seldom, medium or often use or w/e).
 
Joshua J. said:
I've never heard of anyone wearing out the ball detent, and even if you could they only cost a few dollars for a pack of replacements: https://www.alphaknifesupply.com/shop/product/ceramic-balls
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I don't know if I'm using the correct terminology, so pardon my french.

It's more the track that forms further around the pivot (not where the bearings/washers are) - because of the semi round 'peak' on the liner contacting it - that was worrying me. I thought it would get much grittier with use, but according to this forum, my worries are unsubstantiated.

Though I suppose I could just use an actual ball and epoxy-glue it to the liner. Not sure if that would hold up, considering there's quite a bit of force and and impact involved for such a small area.
 
Not sure if I'm following, maybe take a pic?

If you're talking about this little thing:
20220213_152846.jpg
That's on the liner/lock...

If that's the case, you have nothing to worry about for extended time.

ALL folding knives gets gritty if you let dirt, lint, etc get into it. A good knife on washers will resist it for a good bit longer, but will still need cleaning. If I'm lazy I'll run water through it, blast it with compressed air, then oil it (if I dont feel like taking it apart).
 
Like any mechanical device, it will need a little bit of maintenance. Fortunately, a knife usually requires very little over the long run. At some point, you will want to disassemble, clean, and re-lube the pivot. There are plenty of videos on youtube on how to do this depending on the brand/model of knife but they are all similar.
 
I guess I'll just clean it and see what that does.
Dergyll said:
Not sure if I'm following, maybe take a pic?

If you're talking about this little thing:
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Yeah, exactly. What do you call that?
Deino said:
https://www.foxcutlery.com/n/en/product/2945/bkey.html (manufacturer site)
At 4mm that's some thick blade for such small size knife, let alone folders! However, it means that it has a lot of blade stock for the lock to wear.
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The knife is built like a tank. Especially for its size. I was suprised that it actually runs on bearings.
 
I've etc'd a ZT200 and a ZT560 for over 10 years. neither show any appreciable signs of major wear having being flipped many thousands of times.
Buy good kit and it will outlast you.

 
Steven65 said:
I've etc'd a ZT200 and a ZT560 for over 10 years. neither show any appreciable signs of major wear having being flipped many thousands of times.
Buy good kit and it will outlast you.
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I've also got a ZT, but I personally wouldn't beat on it. That's why I prefer a cheap knife I'm not afraid to do abusive tasks with.
David Mary said:
Time to get on that.
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It was a bit of serrated blackwash humour; dark, rough and edgy.
ferider said:
Well, then here you are: had a flat steel ball detent on a used Hinderer once.

The other thing that wears are RIL lock surfaces with lock stick (tang or lock, depending on knife).
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That's what I was thinking that will happen, though I'm guessing for that to happen there must be a good amount of use or neglect.
 
HyperXHyperX said:
I guess I'll just clean it and see what that does.
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Yep, that sounds like all it needs.

For the detent ball track, my quick maintenance trick is just to take a small piece of index card, open the knife, move the lockbar back like I'm going to close it, and instead slip the card between the ball and the tang as I close it. Then I open it once or twice and pull out the card the same way I put it in. That sweeps the track clean and usually takes care of it.

In my experience oiling that track runs a high risk of leaking oil onto the lock interface, which can in turn mess with the lockup. My trick avoids that risk. (If you do decide to oil the track, I recommend putting a tiny drop of oil on a plate/whatever, taking the end of a sewing needle and getting a minuscule amount of that drop onto its tip, and putting that on the detent ball.)
 
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