Emre is getting to the more important question:
How Long Do You Dry the Wood BEFORE Stabilizing.
The wood needs to be below 10% moisture content, better if below 7%.
Any wood needs to have as little water as possible to allow the stabilizing agent to properly penetrate and cure ( most resins will not cure right if water is involved). If you want to test this theory, add a little water to polyurethane and paint it on a piece of wood. It will stay sticky forever, most likely.
If the process is true stabilization, the resin will be cured in the stabilization process. If you are just impregnating the wood with something, it may never dry (You can cut into wood stabilized with Nelsonite and smell the chemical after years on the shelf.).
The answer to your question can only be answered by you, since no one has the same set of parameters as your setup (Ingredients, wood ,pressures, etc.). I would do the wood in batches of five or six test blocks ( 1X2X4") , and try different procedures until you come up with a good process. It may take twenty or more tries to get all the variables tweaked.
Here is a laundry list of areas to consider:
Wood species
Wood moisture content pre-stabilization
Stabilizing agent
Removal of excess agent prior to catalyzing
Amount of vacuum/pressure used
Curing catalyst or process (Heat, chemical, moisture,air, etc.)
Post-stabilization removal of excess cured and uncured agent
I recommend a full understanding and research into how polymerization occurs ,and the agents used to properly stabilize wood.
All this, and a lot of other things, may well add up to the realization that having it done in a processing plant (like WSSI) is often the simplest and best route.
I'm not trying to put you off from trying this.Have fun, and see what you can come up with. Make thorough records of every batch, with every detail listed.
Good luck.
Stacy
