How many teeth? Bandsaw setup questions.

M

Metzger

Joined
Mar 9, 2010
Messages
29
When I cut my knife profiles with my metal band saw I am getting some chatter and it is slow going (Harbor Freight 64 1/2 inch). I have a bimetal (generic 14TPIx1/2"?) blade at a slow speed but I think the teeth are a bit far apart for the 1/16th to 1/8th thickness stock. When I make a fairly small turn sometimes it puts too much stress on the blade and the blade stops and pops off the wheel. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks David
 
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Something to keep in mind is that it is advisable to use a blade which will keep at least two teeth in touch with the material being cut at all times. Anytime that you cut thicknesses that are thinner than the distance between the teeth of the blade you will be prone to binding the blade and possibly knocking off teeth. If you must do so, remember to take it slow.

The saw that you are using is prone to throwing blades any time that you put it into too much of a bind. The only thing that will help is to add more blade tension.

Gary
 
I agree that 14 TPI is too coarse for that also

The rule of thumb, I have learned is 3 teeth in the work.

so 3 / 1/8
is 3x8
is 24 tpi

and

3 / 1/16
3x16
=48

I think this is too fine and the rule breaks down at the really thin thicknesses.

I use 18, 24 and 32 tpi for most of my work, but find that I am usually going one coarser than the rule.

So maybe the 2 teeth rule is more practical on the thinner stock that we tend to use.


If you want to make tight turns, you can

Drill a hole in the stock to match the radius of the turn.
Go to a thinner - more flexible blade like .020 instead of .025 with wider kerf (that cuts a sider chip with more room and less binding)

I would normally also use a narrower blade, but on the saw you have, you are stuck to a 1/2 blade width.
 
Also check the tension on the blade, I put quite a bit, and the angle of the upper wheel, only the teeth should show off the edge of the upper wheel. With 1/16 and 1/8 I would not expect you to pop the blade, I us 18 tpi and 24 tpi otherwise it strips the teeth off the blade, use very little pressure to prevent this.
 
12345678910 said:
I agree that 14 TPI is too coarse for that also

The rule of thumb, I have learned is 3 teeth in the work.

so 3 / 1/8
is 3x8
is 24 tpi

and

3 / 1/16
3x16
=48

I think this is too fine and the rule breaks down at the really thin thicknesses.

I use 18, 24 and 32 tpi for most of my work, but find that I am usually going one coarser than the rule.

So maybe the 2 teeth rule is more practical on the thinner stock that we tend to use.


If you want to make tight turns, you can

Drill a hole in the stock to match the radius of the turn.
Go to a thinner - more flexible blade like .020 instead of .025 with wider kerf (that cuts a sider chip with more room and less binding)

I would normally also use a narrower blade, but on the saw you have, you are stuck to a 1/2 blade width.
Click to expand...

;)We agree as you have said the same thing but have explained it better [a 16 tpi blade will always have at least two teeth cutting on a 3/16" piece]. I sometimes don't explain things are explicitly as I could.
 
OK I will get a 32 or maybe a 24 TPI, I will work on my set up and drill holes to make easier turns.
David
 
Gary Mulkey said:
;)We agree as you have said the same thing but have explained it better [a 16 tpi blade will always have at least two teeth cutting on a 3/16" piece]. I sometimes don't explain things are explicitly as I could.
Click to expand...

I saw your post and it was good unto itself,
but sometimes we have to justify to the questioin asker that we know what we are talking about.

That's why I went for the long winded-ed explanation.

It's more memorable if readers know why and can adjust their use based on their need.

I agree with Stacy that 24 is a good universal.
I also keep an 18
Try one of each and see you you like it.

I do use a 32tpi, but only in .040 TI and such for liners.


If I used that in blade steel it would try my patience and I would push too hard.


Those bandsaws are bad for blades popping.
I had one that angered me so much that I threw it away.
Read some posts here and on tool specific forums
Try reading the manual, Grizzly has good ones on every tool page.
As mentioned above"
adjust the bearing guides
adjust the tracking - works just like a grinder- but not so obvious which screw is which
adjust the tension
be sure you are using a 1/2" wide blade - the wheels have a step so the teeth are off the wheel

and
Thanks to Sam Salvati you smart little bugger

The bottom wheel is on the shaft with only a flat key and set screw
The wheel will slide on the shaft and out of position- check it's lined up with the top one and the guides and fix it on there better.
Every time I went to make a cut, the blade came off as it was out of alignment and unsupported on the bottom.
This is why I tossed a bandsaw- I'm pretty sure the guy who got it was smarter than me and knew this.

How to fix that?
Pin it
Loctite bearing/sleeve retaining compound
One or more of these - notice that the screw tightens the ring and not just pokes in towards the shaft
Pretty simple - that AND loctite.
51X-Go7J4tL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

92679267.jpg
 
Thanks numbers, I look forward to setting up my bandsaw better and getting a better one someday.
David
 
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