How many times can you sharpen a SAK classic blade/ what do you do after its gone?

G

GarageBoy

Joined
May 23, 2003
Messages
5,952
The SAK classic blade is sooo thin/slim. It seems like a dozen resharpenings and the blade would be gone. So then what? You toss it, or will Vnox reblade it?
 
I have an old vic that i have used for years..... And its not any where near wearing out.... Plus.. Get a new one for the price, instead of paying shipping for an old one to get a new blade.. Just my OP.....
You got alot of questions tonight...:D
 
Yes I do, I'm on spring break and doing a lot of pondering. (So if I get a sterling Classic, then what?)
 
Well, could have said that in the first place.......:).......... I know the blade is not going to wear out that quick, but definatly faster.... In that case i would call And ask the company.... or wait for a Vic expert to chime in...
I would like to know this myself...:thumbup:
Matt
 
Victorinox will replace the blade/ knife free of charge. they have a life time warranty.
Mike
 
I've carried a Classic for years. Blade still sharp. Blade still there.

If the blade ever goes, I'll break off the stub, then use it for airplane trips.
 
Mtn Hawk said:
Why is that?
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Well, assuming we're using a grooved steel, like everyone and their mother has in their knifeblock, you're taking a file to the edge of your knife, theoretically to correct a rolled edge.

1) I prefer steels that are hard enough not to roll, and thus happen to be too hard to take to a steel without chipping.
2) If the steel is soft enough to benefit from the unrolling, you then have seriously weakened metal forming your edge, which will reduce sharpness lifetime even further.
3) It's a file... just doesn't seem right to me.

And if you're using a smooth steel or glass "steel", my understanding is that it wouldn't do any good unless the steel was rolled, not blunted, chipped, or any other deformations.
 
Lucky Bob said:
Well, assuming we're using a grooved steel, like everyone and their mother has in their knifeblock, you're taking a file to the edge of your knife, theoretically to correct a rolled edge.

1) I prefer steels that are hard enough not to roll, and thus happen to be too hard to take to a steel without chipping.
2) If the steel is soft enough to benefit from the unrolling, you then have seriously weakened metal forming your edge, which will reduce sharpness lifetime even further.
3) It's a file... just doesn't seem right to me.

And if you're using a smooth steel or glass "steel", my understanding is that it wouldn't do any good unless the steel was rolled, not blunted, chipped, or any other deformations.
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Uummm.......a steel is not a file. It does not remove metal, it just helps to straighten it.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
Grooved steels remove metal. Smooth ones don't
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What Bill said.:thumbup: Use a grooved steel several times then wipe it with a soft white cloth and you will see the metal filings removed. Some grooved steels are magnetic for the purpose of holding the filings on the steel.
 
Are smooth steels more common in some areas or something? I'm surprised there's so much confusion over what type is being referred to (unless that isnt the case and some folk just cant comprehend that grooved steel=file), in my neck of the woods I'd say at least 99% of steels in homes are of the grooved variety, in fact I've never even seen a smooth steel and I've been actively looking for them every time I'm in a store with kitchenware.
 
sketchbag said:
Are smooth steels more common in some areas or something? I'm surprised there's so much confusion over what type is being referred to (unless that isnt the case and some folk just cant comprehend that grooved steel=file), in my neck of the woods I'd say at least 99% of steels in homes are of the grooved variety, in fact I've never even seen a smooth steel and I've been actively looking for them every time I'm in a store with kitchenware.
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Grooved steels are commonly the type included with a set of kitchen knives (often in a block holder). The knife shops I have visited all sold both styles of steels. There is a third type; the combo which has opposing sectors (0-90° & 180°-270°) grooved and the other two sectors (90°-180° & 270°-360°) smooth.
 
as to the OP; a vic classic will last a long time, as long as you aren't taking it down to a very rough grit every time you sharpen. if you touch it up with a few licks on a very fine stone or sandpaper (i would call fine starting at about 600 grit) say once a week or every two weeks depending on how much you use the blade, it should be fine for a long, long time. i would say email victorinox about blade replacements.

as to steels; i grew up watching my dad rub his kitchen knives on a grooved steel every time he used them. i grew up some more and picked up knives and sharpening as a hobby. now i sharpen his knives every few weeks, don't let him touch my knives i bring out when there is kitchen cutting to be done, and the steel lies in a drawer somewhere.

i made a smooth steel, really a burnisher, out of a polished hardened piece of steel round bar, about 3/8 or 1/2 inch diam i guess. i only rarely use it, just when i torque the edge of a very thin blade, or rather when other people bring me their tweaked blades to fix... i try to put the metal back as much as possible before i start taking metal away, even though that leaves some fatigued metal.

a rough steel doesn't do a thing for a knife that a fine stone or paper won't do. in fact, there are some that would argue that it only weakens the edge by scraping edge parallel grooves into the metal, so that it could fold like an accordion.
 
GarageBoy said:
The SAK classic blade is sooo thin/slim. It seems like a dozen resharpenings and the blade would be gone. So then what? You toss it, or will Vnox reblade it?
Click to expand...

How do you sharpen your knives, with a file?

I've had the same Classic (it's beat to hell, but keeps on ticking) since 1984ish.
 
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