How many use a leather strop?

C

Cut-Up

Joined
Mar 24, 2001
Messages
44
I'm wondering if just using a strop from time to time would keep the Sebenza in it's original condition.
 
Based upon my experiences, ABSOLUTELY.

I go easy and not to much. I do this with all my knives to keep the edge keen. Seems like I only need to go the Sharpmaker, or beyond rarely.
 
I always strop my knives after I use the 204, that really smooths out the edge, takes off that wire edge too.

------------------
Buck Collectors Club Member # 572
Dedicated ELU
Knifeknut(just ask my wife)
Sebenzanista
 
How exactly do you use the strop? I assume that you smear a little Flitz on it and drag the blade back and forth a few times at a slight angle. Is this the right way?
 
I just started using one. I wasn't real fond of the small striations left by the Sharpmaker 204's fine stone(all I've ever used). So I figured I'd give the much talked about "strop" thing a try. I decided to go the super cheap route, as cheap can often be good.
First I picked up a leather belt at the local Good Will(it was fairly thick, and had been nicely softened from wear).
Then I grabbed some scrap wood the width of the belt....just be sure it's straight and even(not warped/bowed).
Next I cut a piece of the belt about 8" long, and used Elmer's glue(all I had around) and a bench vise to keep it flat while it set up.(BTW, leather was glued suede side up, to be more "grippy" for the compound)
Lastly, I rubbed/pressed some of the red Dremel polishing compound(comes in a little container with a green lid, part # 402?) into the leather. Doing it this way will also leave a nice polished surface on your fingers
wink.gif


To strop, I just alternate sides, dragging the edge matching the angle as much as possible when freehanding. Just make sure when switching sides, to pick the blade off the leather before flipping the knife. Don't use the edge as a pivot point as this can roll the edge if done repeatedly.

Edge will come out polished, and sharper than a spoon.
 
i have used a piece of Demin (blue jeans
pant leg saved from cutoffs)with a little
Flitz worked in to the fabric.

And WOW !!! seemed just as sharp as new.

had the Seb for a while and it was time for
something. i didn't want to stone it r do with out it (return for sharping) so i waited till i couldn't wait any longer.

i figured i would give it a try before shipping. i have used Flitz to polish other knives and it seemed to DULL em. So i figured it could go the other way too.

try it, it works and really doesn't remove
any metal

later, mark
 
slag,
smile.gif
I've been using the compound that came with my Dremel, too. Works great, and gives a nice mirror polish with just a few strops. Wonder what grit it is?
btw, I use the flat of a knife blade to press it into the strop-no shiny fingers for me!.
 
Yup,
Use some chrome polish and some puma green jewellers rouge. Again on a piece of leather stuck on a piece of wood. Also have a second with some stiff foam padding for when needing a more convex edge. Do try and keep your angles correct and consistent.
 
OwenM,
Grit??......that's something that would be nice to know, I don't think any of the paperwork mentioned it, I'll have to try and find that out.

I like the sound of your "fingerless" approach to getting the compound worked into the strop. It sounds more efficient than the route I took
wink.gif
 
I have two leather strops. I bought a nice thick (about 3/32") 6" x 14" piece of leather from a local cobbler for $5. I cut in in half, and glued one half (shiney side up) on a block of wood. I also have this ferrous metal rouge in a tube. I just smear some of that on the leather once in a while and strop away.

The other piece of leather I also use as a strop, but this one for a blade that has a convex grind on the edge bevel. I put the rouge on the same way, but this piece I hold in my hand forming a concave surface. As I stroke the blade, I change the angle slightly from very low at the beginning of the stroke to high at the end. That polishes the whole of the convex edge.
 
I was taught to hold the blade dead flat on the strop. Of course, this only works for regular V grinds, not convex. I bought this yellow stone that Country Knives used to sell. Basically, scrape some off with an old knife or screwdriver onto the leather, work it in with the back of the blade, and strop away.
 
Strops are a great tool for the up keep of the edge of most any knife. Go to a flea market, trash and treasure sale, etc.look for an old "Barber Strop" you should find them for about 5.00 . What ever compound you settle on, red, green or aluminum oxide, you can do the following. Rub the smooth leather piece with the compound with acetone this will let it penetrate the surface, and when the acetone dries, you have a smooth abrasive surface. Use gloves and a mask when using acetone ( not good for your liver, or brain ) .For your convex edges, all you have to do is hold the strop in a slack position. For all others, pull the strop tight. The second piece of leather on these barber strops is the starting point, with out any compound load.

Floyd
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top