How much does it cost to get scarry sharp?

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Feb 3, 2001
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After reading MercuryHazes post on scarry sharp, I thought I'd add my$1.50 worth, so here it is.

The sharpening progression generally goes like this: You get a knife, it gets dull,(if you have no experience sharpening, you ask someone that does, to put an edge on it for you) you dig up granddads old carborundom coarse oil stone, and attempt to put an edge on it yourself, or you take it to the grinder:eek: .

After completely destroying the blade and finish, you buy another knife,(this is where the collecting starts;) ) or you try to learn freehand sharpening, if your lucky, someone you know,(sportsman, hunter, outdoorsman), will teach you, or maybe your one of the 2 people who can read, and understand a sharpening procedure written on paper, than successfully apply that knowledge to developing a hairpoppin' edge.:rolleyes: More likely than not you've ruined another edge, and consequently bought another knife. (This is why cheap sharp blades like Opinel, and Frost Mora blades are so popular, use it till it's dull than throw it in the drawer)

Next step, buy a 3 sided Smiths hone set up,(why you buy three more stones when you can't freehand sharpen worth a s**t anyway is beyond me) Screw up a few more edges, get some more practice, than onto the next step.

V sharpening sticks, usually it's a cheap pair of round rods that don't seem to work very well anyway, so its back to the drawing board, and maybe you wind up with a Sharpmaker, this seems to be the ticket, but the angles on the blade don't always match the angle on the Sharpmaker, so you go looking for something better.

In the mean time you pull out the stone and try some more freehand, you notice that you can now maintain a reasonable primary bevel, but to get that paper slicin' edge you go back to the Sharpmaker.

Somewhere along the line someone mentions diamond hones, the ones for the Sharpmaker are $70:eek: so you buy an Diafold, and immediately notice the difference, you can now ruin the edge in half the time:confused: , so it's back to the Sharpmaker for now.

After some time, you realize that your problem is maintaining a consistent angle when sharpening, so now you either make the leap to a sharpening system with a jig/clamp for the blade, (or you stick to a rolled/Moran/covex edge like some people I know:rolleyes: )

So you choose a system, Lansky, Gatco, or one of the many out there, and you go on a sharpening frenzy, (hell you got about a half a dozen dull blades in your knife drawer by now), and what do you find out? The damn stones are short, the bevel seems to get wider as you approach the belly of the knife:confused: , so it's back to the bench stones to try and straighten out the edge, here you notice that you seem to be maintaining a decent angle, so you go and buy a coarse diamond bench hone, only to notice that as you try to hone the deep scratches from the edge,(it kinda looks like a serrated edge now)you wind up rounding off that nice consistent bevel you achieved with the coarse diamond bench hone.

Finally someone shows you and Edgepro, or you send a knife into them for sharpening, at which point you realize that this is the ultimate system, the blade come back scarry, hair poppin' sharp:D , and it looks easy:) , than you see the price tag, $200+ :eek: .

You scrimp, you save, and finally you have enough to buy one, you anxiously await it's arrival, and when it shows up, you can't wait to fix all the edges on all your knives.

Alas, you try, and you try, but you can't seem to get the same scarry edge as the knife that was done on another Edgepro.

You go back to the bench hone, or the Sharpmaker and the edges seem to come alive after a few strokes.

Since you've started sharpening several years have passed, quite possibly a few hundred dollars in knives, and at least $400 in sharpeners, and what did you learn, if you learn and practice your freehand sharpening skills you can save a lot of aggravation and money.

I have an Edgepro, and I'll swear by it, but most of my touch ups are done on a bench stone, it's faster and easier to set up.

Now I use all the sharpeners I have, the Sharpmaker sits on my kitchen counter to dress up an edge while cooking, the freehand stones sit in a drawer next to where I sit to dress up the edge on my EDC's and the Edgepro is primarily used to reprofile and polish an edge.

BTW don't forget stropping and steeling.
 
I've followed the EXACT same path until I got my 204. I've been pretty content with it since. Edgepro looks great but also out of my price range right now.
Matt
 
Great post! Now I know exactly what to get next in my quest to dull blades!

Originally posted by T. Erdelyi
So you choose a system, Lansky, Gatco, or one of the many out there...The damn stones are short, the bevel seems to get wider as you approach the belly of the knife:confused:
I can see how this will happen with the stone clamped at the center of the blade.

Interestingly, I find the opposite is true for my sharpening methods (freehand on stones and Sharpmaker). The bevel gets wider at the tip, since the grind lines converge there and make the side-to-side width fatter. To avoid this, I sometimes freehand at an arbitrarily higher angle at the tip (usually around 25-30 degrees per side). The tips never get quite as sharp as the consistently angled belly though.

I think T. Erdelyi's post should be compulsory reading for anyone learning to sharpen (myself included). I've always thought it was just me who couldn't get a hair-popping edge on the stones.

edited to add:

One more random sharpening fact is that I've found flat grinds are harder to get to a hairpopping sharpness because the edge surface is wide enough that not all passes on the honing surface (whatever it may be) will remove material from the very edge. V-grind sharpening hollow-ground blades is easier because the edge surface width (i.e. the polished area if you strop a lot) is much smaller and passes on the honing surface are almost certain to touch the very edge.
 
Learned 13yrs ago how to sharpen freehand, from my grandfather... bought a 204 2.5-3yrs ago to touch up serrated edges.

I still do the majority of my sharpening freehand. Just starting to play with stropping(use the case on my 303MF for a while, but just recieved a strop to learn).

Don't have any diamond hones, use cheap stones as they work.

use a ceramic steel(about the same grit as the spyderco fines)

Pretty much all my knives will shave.
 
I've always wondered how my sharpening skills fare next to other knifenuts. I guess you could say I'm insecure about my edge. :) If I ever find knifenuts in the area, I'll be sure to test their edges to see how I'm doing.
 
ROTFLMAO! Been there, done that. I use an Eze-Lap medium diamond hone, Spyderco fine ceramic benchstone and the Sharpmaker for touch-ups. I find that if you maintain the edge on the Sharpmaker, you don't have to go back and start over all that often, especially if the knife has good steel (I like the CPM steels) that hold a good edge and if the knife was profiled correctly in the first place (Sebenza, DDR). Long post, but funny as hell! Thanks for the laugh, it ain't been a great day.

Leo G.
 
I think I'm going to go with a clamp system. The Edgepro looks great, expensive, but great. Does anyone else make a good clamp system?
 
Geez. You guys are complicated.

I just bought a sharpmaker in the first place, a day after I bought my first knife. I've gradually been phasing out the use of the base, and just sharpening with the stones freehand.

That's it, that's my entire progression right there. Makes me feel like I missed something.
 
I picked up three different bench stones, a Lansky kit, a diamond Lansky kit, and a SharpMaker. I finally said "screw it", put them all in the cardboard box archive, bought a few sheets of 69 cent wet/dry paper, and found an old mouse pad in the closet.

All of my blades now get a convex grind from the wet/dry paper and mouse pad. Total Cost - $3.72
 
Originally posted by tom mayo
Or you could spend $1600+ on a Burr King! :(

Tom, that's my next step:D.

Buzz I was reffering to you,"...or you stick to a rolled/Moran/covex edge like some people I know"
 
Originally posted by MercuryHayze
I think I'm going to go with a clamp system. The Edgepro looks great, expensive, but great. Does anyone else make a good clamp system?

You know the Edge Pro isn't a clamp system, right? Ok, just checking.

Mike
 
Originally posted by Medic1210
You know the Edge Pro isn't a clamp system, right? Ok, just checking.

Mike


That's the hardest part to get used to, cause your actually moving the blade as you sharpen, also, in the begining you tend to press the blade into the table too hard, the Edgepro takes a lighter hand than you would think
 
Buzz I was reffering to you,"...or you stick to a rolled/Moran/covex edge like some people I know"

Uh, oh. I'm starting to get predictable in my old age. ;)
 
So, how do you make a good convex edge and get the bevels to line up and be sharp, and not just rounded like a dull edge?

Mike
 
I think what we've learned here in this thread is that a sound knowledge of what happens to the steel during sharpening is key to obtain good results when using freehand sharpening techniques. This kind of knowledge is also useful even when using "easy" sharpeners like the Sharpmaker. Somebody needs to summarize this stuff and perhaps append it to Joe Talmadge's sharpening FAQ, I think the equipment-based perspective helps.

Originally posted by buzzbait:
Uh, oh. I'm starting to get predictable in my old age.
Let's have a Buzzbait impersonation contest:

Bob Dozier's D2 is great. Camillus EDC is a great little knife. I've found that convex sharpening is both strong and extremely sharp. Yo-yos, anyone?

Hehe. :)
 
Medic1210-- click on the SOSAK link in Buzzbait's post just above yours--under the misc. section there is an excellent article on convex grinds. Basically, if you press too hard as you are sharpening, the sandpaper will wrap around the edge and grind it off. It's really not all that hard to get a convex edge. Like other methods, it requires a bit of practice. Coloring the edge with a magic marker allows you to monitor your progress; if the marker is not removed from the very edge, you need to elevate the blade angle a bit until it is. I usually sharpen my knives at the lowest angle that will actually hit the edge.
--Josh
 
The senses of sound and touch play an important roll in sharpening a convex grind. As you change the tilt of the blade during the stropping motion, you can either hear or feel extra drag as the very edge of the blade hits the strop. If you go past the point that you begin to feel and hear the drag, you have a good chance of actually dulling the edge. When you get good at detecting the level of drag, you don’t even need a soft surface any more. A flat and hard surface will actually give you a better edge when you’ve gotten good at it.

Another key is to use the correct grit of wet/dry paper. If you use too high a grit, it’ll take you a million more strokes to sharpen the knife. You have a much better chance of messing up a few strokes when doing a million of them, than when only doing a few. It’s better to start at a lower grit and work your way up, then spending a long time with a higher grit.

Seeing as I’m getting so darned predictable, I think I can sum up my entire knife knowledge in a few simple quotations:

1. Bob Dozier is the man!!!!

2. If your edge isn’t convex, it isn’t sharp or strong enough.

3. The Camillus EDC is the best darned inexpensive folder, no matter what you think.

4. Sebenza!!!

5. Stag is a beautiful thing.

Words of wisdom!!!!
 
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